LED Heat Sink

sra_chipmunk

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Where is everyone buying their heat sink from when they do their DIY LED setup? I found this site, http://www.heatsinkusa.com/products/10.000%22-Wide-x-20%22-Long-Heatsink.html">http://www.heatsinkusa.com/products/10.000%22-Wide-x-20%22-Long-Heatsink.html</a> but I thought I would throw out a feeler to see if anyone has found anything better. Maybe something pre drilled. I have a 24x24x24" cube so the measurements of the one in the link above seem to be just right for me. Does anyone else have any input or thoughts or suggestions for me on it. Maybe something better/cheeper/predrilled with these measurements?
Thanks
Tom
 
Did you check
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I have the same tank and talked to the people at RapidLED in considering DIY, and they replied "Ideally you'd want something around 6-8" wide x 10-16" long for a heatsink"</em>

I thought from what they have I would either try to find a different Heatsink or use 2 of their 4.25" x 9" models.

The thing you have to consider is that the optics really make a difference and allow you to go with a fixture much smaller than the space you're trying to light.

The heatsink you show is pretty decent in size, but IMHO it would be overkill in length on a 24" tank.

I pondered the DIY versus the AI LEDs and after seeing the AI's in action, I'm pretty set on them. At the end of the day, the price difference is not that much for the AI unit and the software/controller makes it worth while for me. But the DIY would be a cool project for sure.
 
I bought mine from Rapidled.com. I believe they have pre-drilled 4.25" units but I used the adhesive for mine. Not quite done but yet but mine is a small unit with only 10 LED's.
 
I planned on doing 56 LED's (35 | 3 watt Royal Blue LED and 21 | 3 watt Ultra Cool White 10,000K LED) and only 28 of them will have the 60* optics on them. Maybe 2 of these will work just fine and I will bring the total count down to 48 LED's
 
56 LED's is a *LOT* on a 60 cube... IMHO, it's way overkill.

I was looking at 24 as my SPS are up pretty high. If you want to do SPS down low or a clam down low, bump up to 30-36. Even 48 is a lot of light.
 
I had a bunch of thoughts, excuse the rambling in the following reply...

I'd recommend doing half regular blue and half royal blue. That's what the AI fixtures use. The royal blue color by itself is hard on your eyes.

56 might be more than you need, but without a PAR meter, it is tough to know. I'll end up with about that equivalent when I add blues to my fixture. I'll have 126 LEDs over a 125 gallon. Use dimmable drivers and you can dial back the current. Running at a lower current will make the LEDs last longer.

A large heatsink will let you spread the LEDs out a bit more and give more even coverage. That will be a bonus if you are using optics. You will also want to cluster the LEDs in groups of white/blue/royal so that you don't get so many shadows of different colors. The LED stars are only about an inch across, so you can put them pretty tight to one another. I got a 4.25" wide, 72.5 inch long heatsink from HeatsinksUSA, which fits perfectly over my 125 tank without needing any extra bars to brace it. For a 60 cube, you would want a much wider one, or maybe several bolted together in roughly a square. With LEDs there is a trade off between even light and number of LEDs. There are getting to be some really high power LEDs out there (10+ watts), but you can end up with spotlighting. I think it is better to go with more lower watt LEDs (CREE 3 watts), unless you have a deep tank or are planning to mount them up high. This becomes even more of an issue when you have to use three different colors mixed to get the "right" color.



Depending on how high you plan on hanging the fixture, make sure the rows of LEDs are not too far apart, or the optics might result in shadows. Rows 3-4" apart work fine with my fixture only 5" off the water, but I think a 6-8" spread would cause some "spotlighting" with the fixture that close. I have a 6" gap between the groups of LEDs over top of the two braces in my tank, and the shadow lines are visible. If I had to do it again, I would replace the black braces with clear acrylic and spread the LEDs out evenly. If you mounted yours higher, you could have the emitters farther apart. Since you have a cube, you could also use wider optics in the center of the tank and narrower optics around the sides, which would give you better mixing and spread of the light, while still not losing so much out the sides of the tank.

I used adhesive rather than drilling.

On a 24" cube, I'd consider a roughly 16"x16" fixture with 16 groups of three emitters in a 4x4 pattern roughly 4-5" apart. That would give you a total 48 emitters, with roughly 120 watts of LED power, all of which with optics could be directed into you tank. I'd consider none or 80 degree optics in the center, and 60 or 40 degree around the sides, depending on how high you plan to hang it.

If you really wanted to take full advantage of the optics, you could use separate heatsinks and tilt the outer ones so that they direct the light inwards, which would lead to even less light spillage out of the glass.
 
Half of those LEDs won't have optics. 56 is not overkill. He had a 400W metal halide over the same tank for a couple years. I have 28 RB leds driven at 700ma, half with optics and half without optics. They are spread out over a 48" tank and they add 50-70 par to most of the tank when on.

Also he wants a 20K look so he will need more RB than CW.

I do agree with the optics, 80 in the middle and 60 around the edge. The idea here is he wants more light than he needs and he will have the option to dim them.

From what I gathered from talking to him, the tank will be 90% Acropora and he wants to have them everywhere in the tank.
 
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