As I understand it AquaIllumination is the Rolls Royce at this point but much like the Rolls they are quite expensive.
The 72" package at Aquarium Specialty is 3k+. That is significantly more than I have invested in my entire set-up at this point.
LED lighting question
- Thread starter chris_w
- Start date
As I understand it AquaIllumination is the Rolls Royce at this point but much like the Rolls they are quite expensive.
The 72" package at Aquarium Specialty is 3k+. That is significantly more than I have invested in my entire set-up at this point.
I built a led fixture for my 120gal. It has 72 leds and a custom built controller using an arduino to control sunrise to sunset. Not the best looking fixture but at 200 watts vs a 1000watt fixture, I can deal with it. It set me back about $800 8 months ago. I am not very technical and had never soldered before, but I read a lot of posts and managed to put it together in about a week working on it off and on.
At the time I built mine I could not find optics wide enough but I did find some reflectors. I believe they are about 80 degrees. I think its enough light. I only have a few pieces of sps and they are about halfway down my tank. My fixture sits directly on top of the tank and the reflectors are tight enough to keep most of the light in the tank.
Ok, 2 questions for you LED guys...
Im leaning towards the Deluxe 36 XR-E Q5 kit here: http://www.reefledlights.com/led-kits/deluxe-led-kits/">http://www.reefledlights.com/led-kits/deluxe-led-kits/</a> Can someone explain the significance of the degree lens? And which bulb combination would be best? (IE 18 cool white/18 royal blue or 12 cool white/24 royal blue or what??)
Thanks!
Im leaning towards the Deluxe 36 XR-E Q5 kit here: http://www.reefledlights.com/led-kits/deluxe-led-kits/">http://www.reefledlights.com/led-kits/deluxe-led-kits/</a> Can someone explain the significance of the degree lens? And which bulb combination would be best? (IE 18 cool white/18 royal blue or 12 cool white/24 royal blue or what??)
Thanks!
- Messages
- 4,973
- Reaction score
- 389
I recently did a diy for a frag tank that has 24 cree LEDs and 2 dimmable drivers that runs from my RKL and ALC... I figure I had about 450 in that setup.
- Messages
- 4,973
- Reaction score
- 389
I am using MORE whites than blue and it isn't a 14k look with the RBs. The blue is REALLY strong.
BUT if you have the blue on one driver and the white on another you should be able to mix what you want. 2 blues to 1 white will be way too blue IMO... I wouldn't go this route.
B
- Messages
- 4,973
- Reaction score
- 389
sorry for multiple posts....
but.. anyhow
dont underestimate the power of these LED's you will flat out toast your corals if you aren't careful. I have mine turned down to 50%. I had them higher for a while and everything bleached. The watts / gallon rule doesn't apply here apparently.
when you put them on .. .turn them up over a week or so from about 40% IMO.
B
but.. anyhow
dont underestimate the power of these LED's you will flat out toast your corals if you aren't careful. I have mine turned down to 50%. I had them higher for a while and everything bleached. The watts / gallon rule doesn't apply here apparently.
when you put them on .. .turn them up over a week or so from about 40% IMO.
B
I think this</em> is the "Rolls" at this point...
http://www.reeftechled.com/">http://www.reeftechled.com/</a>
And Amici - the 1w LEDs are VERY capable of coral growth - that's what most of the systems employed until recently. I think the main reason for change is that the 1w LEDs had been given a bad name, but I've seen plenty of growth and PAR charts that support their use.
I just put my LED fixture for my 120 gallon together this weekend. I'll post pics later as it is still a mess of wires. I've still got a lot of cleanup and organizing to do. Gluing, soldering, wiring, etc. wasn't hard, but got a bit tedious. It took about three hours to solder the wires to the stars. Don't let the soldering scare you away. I used Solder-It compound (from Lowes, in the plumbing section). Just put a dab on the contact, push your wire end into the dab then apply the tip of the soldering iron (30 watt iron). The contact grabs the solder when it melts and the solder won't stick to surrounding area on the star, so it automatically goes where you want it. It was definitely easier to get the soldering right than I had feared. You just take a toothbrush and brush away the extra compound when you are done. I did an ugly job on a few of the contacts. I just remelted the solder, added a bit more compound, and repositioned the wire-- no problem.
The fixture is a 72" x 4.25" aluminum heat sink with three groups of 28 XRE LEDs in two rows, 50/50 white/royal blue. I really like the color, and it seems plenty bright. I've got a 4xT5HO fixture on my 30 gallon and the LEDs seem brighter. The blue is really very blue. I don't think it would need more blue, but everyone's perception of colors is different, so to each their own.
I'm using the 70 degree optics, which really boost the amount of light hitting the prime coral growth area. I don't have a PAR meter, so I don't have a specific measurement, but the difference with and without is very noticeable. If you use the 70 degree optics, you won't get much light in the upper water column along the tank sides, but my rock runs as a ridge down the center, so that works for me. I like the look. It isn't a "spotlight" effect, but it does highlight the ridge down the center.
I went with fewer LEDs to start than I had originally planned since I've heard many people end up dialing their power way back when they load up with lots of emitters. I've got room on my heat sink to add another row of LEDs, so if I find I don't have enough power, I can always add more. The power supplies I'm using (Meanwell ELN60-24D) will run the LEDs at a max of 800 mA (4 supplies, three parallel sets of 7 LEDs on each supply). I've got an Apex to manage sunrise/sunset, but haven't hooked it up yet. I'm just using a Walmart power supply that puts out different voltages (3v-12v) to control the dimming now for testing.
All in, I'm just under $1000 for the fixture, including fans, wire, connectors, etc.
The fixture is a 72" x 4.25" aluminum heat sink with three groups of 28 XRE LEDs in two rows, 50/50 white/royal blue. I really like the color, and it seems plenty bright. I've got a 4xT5HO fixture on my 30 gallon and the LEDs seem brighter. The blue is really very blue. I don't think it would need more blue, but everyone's perception of colors is different, so to each their own.
I'm using the 70 degree optics, which really boost the amount of light hitting the prime coral growth area. I don't have a PAR meter, so I don't have a specific measurement, but the difference with and without is very noticeable. If you use the 70 degree optics, you won't get much light in the upper water column along the tank sides, but my rock runs as a ridge down the center, so that works for me. I like the look. It isn't a "spotlight" effect, but it does highlight the ridge down the center.
I went with fewer LEDs to start than I had originally planned since I've heard many people end up dialing their power way back when they load up with lots of emitters. I've got room on my heat sink to add another row of LEDs, so if I find I don't have enough power, I can always add more. The power supplies I'm using (Meanwell ELN60-24D) will run the LEDs at a max of 800 mA (4 supplies, three parallel sets of 7 LEDs on each supply). I've got an Apex to manage sunrise/sunset, but haven't hooked it up yet. I'm just using a Walmart power supply that puts out different voltages (3v-12v) to control the dimming now for testing.
All in, I'm just under $1000 for the fixture, including fans, wire, connectors, etc.
Heatsinks USA
Call them and they will cut to any length you want. Mine is 72.5" so it slides right into my canopy and spans the whole tank. I went with the 72" so I didn't have to stitch together shorter ones. It was $170, I think.
Call them and they will cut to any length you want. Mine is 72.5" so it slides right into my canopy and spans the whole tank. I went with the 72" so I didn't have to stitch together shorter ones. It was $170, I think.
No it's only 18.5x8 I think but spread is even. Most people I've seen raise the fixture for even coverage. If you don't raise it or lower the intensity then you end up bleaching your corals.
I used two on my 120 before one took a dive. Still working on a replacement for the other unit.
I used two on my 120 before one took a dive. Still working on a replacement for the other unit.
