live rock questions

kstyle13

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I went a my lfs and picked up my first piece of large rock. The piece had some green hairs flowing in the current. Little white tube sticking off of it and a large quantity of coral one algae. It also was full of cracks and crevices. My question is was this a good find? Are all of these things good to have on it when purchased? They also have uncured live rock. It's soo much cheaper. Is it possible to do the bulk of live rock with uncured rock and just cure it myself. Then select some nice pieces that are already cured with micro organisms on them to kick start my growth on the non cured pieces? It's a bit more work I know but won't kill my pocket as much. If this is possible what's the best way to cure the live rock? My tank is not cycled yet so most of what was on my piece I got today will die right? But would it be acceptable to just put the uncured in I the tank as is. Won't that kickstand my nitrogen cycle?

Edit: Coralline algae not coral one
 
Some of that stuff may die off especially if it has algae and such growing on it . It sounds like it may be fresh uncured live rock which is very beautiful fresh but a lot of the soft coral and plants die due to sho k and over exposure which can cause parameters to clime
Unless someone brought it in to trade then you may have just lucked out.

Either way I'd manually remove anything you don't care for before getting it settled in.

As for using base rock and live rock to seed it that's what a lot of people do.
It's expensive to buy all premium live rock at 4-6$ per lb x10-20 + lbs
But the benefit of using all cured live rock is the system cycles very fast and matures quicker.
 
"Green hairs flowing in the current".... Sounds like hair algae. Which is not good, but not the end of the world either.just as long as it's not bryopsis.
 
For a new startup I would look at the uncured. It is usually a lot cheaper and, like you theorized, work for cycling your tank. If you want to save a little more you can get dry rock and use some along with the uncured LR and it will become "live" in a short amount of time. Some people use dry rock as a base with the LR placed on top but you can use the dry anywhere you wish. The "cured" stuff has just been sitting in the tubs longer and most of the dead matter has come off. It is best to use the cured in an established tank that you want to add rock to but not have any ammonia/nitrite/nitrate spikes due to potential harm to livestock.

I am a fan of nice live rock (been called a LR snob before but hey, I like the way nice rocks look) and have always used uncured LR to cycle my new tanks. Most Pacific island live rock is now "pre-cured" before shipping. Basically, it is set on racks and a saltwater mist is sprayed over it for a few days to a week. Stuff like large dead sponges are removed. A decent amount of the life on it can survive but most pests i.e. crabs, snails, and mantis shrimp leave the rock before packaging. Any leftover pests usually die during transit. You will still have some more die off amd a lot of it depends on how long it sat in the box. Most rock, currently including all Fiji islands (even Pukani, Totoka, etc) are loaded on a boat once boxed and shipped. The rock is in the box for up to a couple weeks. Some "premium" types like Manado, Vanuatu, etc. are flown from island to LAX then shipped to fish store from supplier. They often have little die off compared to the boated rock. Some people opt to go with almost all dry rock and just add a little live rock to seed the tank. The thought being, besides saving money, is the lack of potential pests. Only problem I have found with that logic is that some pests may be easily introduced as you add livestock so the point is moot. A lot of eggs and critters can survive the coral dipping process. To me the benefits are cost and ease of aquascaping if you wish to drill rock and use rods or epoxies to hold the rock together.

As far as "what is good live rock" there are just a few simple characteristics. Get shapes that you like including ones to make shelves, caves, etc. The more nooks, crannies, and holes the better. Skip any pieces that are really dense and/or rounded that look like bowling balls. Dont pick pieces just because they have good color or what you think is a free coral growing on it. Most of the coralline and other stuff is dead or dying. An ugly colored rock will color up eventually. You just need to focus on getting the best shapes you can to try and make the aquascape you wish. Dont be nervous about using the uncured and/or dry rock at this stage or getting some cured rock that you really like. Most importantly, just have fun with it and dont stress. I enjoyed the aquascaping process immensely however I don't know if the beer I drank helped or not.
 
Awesome. Thanks yall. One more quick question. I have used large rocks like you would find on rail roads or dams. They were in my freshwater tanks for years. Since I "cured" them for my freshwater tanks and then they were used in them for 7 plus years. All of he harmful chemicals and such would have leeches out. Can I used them as a foundation for my live rock? Like completely hide them under live rock but they would allow me have a little extra height in my decore

Edit: Oh and the rock to my knowledge was not fresh uncured as it was in the lfs aquarium for about 6 months now. They have several tanks on display with only live rock that has been allowed to cure. The newest pieces they get in go directly to their sump. Which is where they sell most of it from. But their loyal customers are allowed to pick from any tank. So I picked the most established piece. It's small however.
 
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Edit: that last one didnt work....
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ok if someone can delete the previous post. I figured out how to resize and post them properly. Now There are little white tubes on with little feathers on them on this piece of rock. plus i tried to take a good one to show the green hairs as well. Can anyone tell me what these are? If you look towards the middle right side of the rock you will see the white tube.
 
The picture is not detailed for me. Maybe I just getting old.

Are you sure that the tubes are not tan or brown in color? The tubes are probably feather dusters [worms]. Some people like them and some people don't like them. Be careful; if the dusters feel in danger, they will release their "crown of thrones" or also called "feathers".

I believe it's hard to find a piece of liverock that won't have any feather duster's on them. The duster's are especially found on "rubble rock". I purchased a small piece of "rubble rock" when I was in Pensacola last summer and I have a small colony of the "feather duster" in my aquarium.

Wannabee

P.S. Here is a link: http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=497+504+539&pcatid=539">http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=497+504+539&pcatid=539</a>

If you put "feather duster" in the search box in above website search box, you will see they list 4 types related to "feather duster".
 
I would absolutely not use any rocks like that for a reef tank (the ones from the railroad obviously). I dont know if there are any minerals or anything that would leech but more importantly to me is the lack of pores in the rock. Besides structure the rock provides a huge part of all the bacterial action in the tank. That bacteria needs the small pores and crevices to live and thus breakdown waste. If you want a cheaper base rock that will still be porous and of good benefit then look at dry reef rock.
 
BlueSpot;930927 wrote: I would absolutely not use any rocks like that for a reef tank (the ones from the railroad obviously). I dont know if there are any minerals or anything that would leech but more importantly to me is the lack of pores in the rock. Besides structure the rock provides a huge part of all the bacterial action in the tank. That bacteria needs the small pores and crevices to live and thus breakdown waste. If you want a cheaper base rock that will still be porous and of good benefit then look at dry reef rock.

Agreed !
The rock could put minerals or phosphates , sulphur iron , you name it whatever may have been in the ground where it was quarried
 
that leeching of chemicals was done with the 4 hours of boiling plus the 2 months it took to "cure". I tested the water twice a week and changed it once a week until i got the negative readings for phosphates, magnesium, chorine, iron, lead, and several others. I used the test kits they use to moniter potable water sources. Then its been in aquariums for about 5 years with adverse effects. thats why i thought it would be safe. I did a lot of research on creating homemade aquarium decor. Suck as rocks, wood, and other various items. I havent had issues thus far with the rock. But i honestly dont have to use it if it could be dangerous. I just thought i would ask.
 
kstyle13;930995 wrote: that leeching of chemicals was done with the 4 hours of boiling plus the 2 months it took to "cure". I tested the water twice a week and changed it once a week until i got the negative readings for phosphates, magnesium, chorine, iron, lead, and several others. I used the test kits they use to moniter potable water sources. Then its been in aquariums for about 5 years with adverse effects. thats why i thought it would be safe. I did a lot of research on creating homemade aquarium decor. Suck as rocks, wood, and other various items. I havent had issues thus far with the rock. But i honestly dont have to use it if it could be dangerous. I just thought i would ask.

I can only share my thoughts on it because there is no way to be certain (short of eventual catastrophes) weather it will actually cause problems , this is an expensive hobby to enjoy especially just setting up so iunderstand where your coming from wanting to use what you have , but in the long run the 10-20$ you would save are a very small investment compared to 6months or a year later when you have a few hundred + invested in coral and fish .

Have you ever walked up stone mountain and seen all the brown rust from the iron oar in the granite ?
Granite can contain many soft and hard metals and because the rock is non porous it doesn't really cure out.
All it would take is erosion on the surface to expose some minerals previously un exposed.

Dry rock is cheap and effective.
Its common for ppl to buy it in bulk and have some left in a box in the closest.
Maybe someone semi local has some they would unload cheap to get it out of there closet , it can't hurt to ask.
Also BRS has many types of dry base rock if you just want to have it delivered to your door.
 
very true. i didnt think of that. no i have not been to stone mountain but the principle is the same. thanks for the insight
 
Get 80% of your rock from Bulk Reef Supply, then 20% live rock from your LFS. It should cure in no time. The coralline will form by itself overtime. However, getting Turbo or other snails from your LFS covered in coralline greatly speeds up the process.
 
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