Low reef sps

[schreck081884]

Looking for some info from the sps guys on ARC. What type of sps would survive at the lower levels of my tank. I have a 93 cube and have transitioned to completely sps in my tank. Led lighting and I have always been able to keep and LPS zoa or soft on the bottom. Don't know what low light sps's would be best for the bottom. Thanks for any info given

 

[jimmystephens]

I have a birdnest colony on my sand bed in a 120 gallon.

 

[picoreefguy]

what light fixture are you using? any idea of its wattage?

 

[jimmystephens]

I have 2 tao tronic led fixtures. 120w. Ive used them for over a year now with good results

 

[ripped tide]

Monti and birdsnest should do ok in the lower areas. Keep in mind that all opinions are subjective. My opinion is that I prefer MH or T5 for SPS. Most LEDS just don't really do it for me.

 

[darth reefer]

Without taking par readings it's really hard to say. Most of your deep waters and smoothskins do better at lower light levels but most of them are harder to keep as well.

 

[jimmystephens]

Oh yea. I do have a big red monti on the bottom also. Used to me my avatar.

 

[jmaneyapanda]

Darth Reefer;862350 wrote: Without taking par readings it's really hard to say. Most of your deep waters and smoothskins do better at lower light levels but most of them are harder to keep as well.

This is only partially true. "Deepwater" or smooth skinned acros often come from very shallow water depths. When they first started collecting some of the deep water acros, they had "smooth skin", and all others after that garnered the name "deep water". But they often need very intense lighting.

Also, regarding PAR, it is important, but we need to understand that very few of us know what corals need what PAR before we hit photosaturation and photoinhibition. Is 200 par not enough, just enough, or too much for Montipora capricornus? Lumping coral lighting demands based off of polyp size is a sketchy slope.

 

[darth reefer]

Yes not all "deepwaters" are actually collected at greater depths but that's why I said most and not all. In my experience most smoothskins while still needing intense light didn't particularly enjoy being at the surface getting blasted. No, par is not the end all rule that is used for light. Spectrum, photo period and lenses (for led) all play a huge part. Not being familiar with those fixtures or tank depth though par would be a big help in knowing if they had enough punch to keep sps on the bottom of the tank.

 

[jmaneyapanda]

Darth Reefer;862412 wrote: Yes not all "deepwaters" are actually collected at greater depths but that's why I said most and not all. In my experience most smoothskins while still needing intense light didn't particularly enjoy being at the surface getting blasted. No, par is not the end all rule that is used for light. Spectrum, photo period and lenses (for led) all play a huge part. Not being familiar with those fixtures or tank depth though par would be a big help in knowing if they had enough punch to keep sps on the bottom of the tank.

Agreed. I wasn't speaking *TO* you necessarily. Just commenting on your info. Too many people mistakenly think "deep water" acros go in a cave, etc. it's a misnomer.

 

[darth reefer]

jmaneyapanda;862416 wrote: Agreed. I wasn't speaking *TO* you necessarily. Just commenting on your info. Too many people mistakenly think "deep water" acros go in a cave, etc. it's a misnomer.

Yeah I agree. I wish they would stop using the "deepwater" name to describe everything with smooth skin. I have some wild smoothskins acros that absolutely love high light. I wasn't arguing just clarifying my earlier statement

 

[snowmansnow]

GENERALLY, speaking digitas and caps would be fine down there... assuming you have good lighting

 

[kirkwood]

birdsnest no problem.. maybe green slimer.. montis like others mentioned..

I would recommend putting all new additions in optimal lighting locations and then cut a small frag, wait for it to heal up and then try it out at lower levels... i wouldn't buy any new coral with the intention of placing it at the bottom of the tank until I was sure it would work out.

 

[snowmansnow]

Kirkwood;862482 wrote: birdsnest no problem.. maybe green slimer.. montis like others mentioned..

I would recommend putting all new additions in optimal lighting locations and then cut a small frag, wait for it to heal up and then try it out at lower levels... i wouldn't buy any new coral with the intention of placing it at the bottom of the tank until I was sure it would work out.

I agree with the above, but optimal lighting conditions doesn't always mean where there is the MOST light.

Do what you will, but t5s (in a decent fixture) carry quite a punch

 

[ralph atl]

I bet a Red Dragon would do good down there.....

 

[schreck081884]

I have an acro colony on the bottom now and it's seems to be doing well for the last two weeks. For those who asking about my lighting I'm running 2 Tatronic 120 led fixtures about 16 above the water. My canopy is also completely white on the inside. I have always had good grown in all my LPS and softies and polyps/Zoas. My tank has transitioned over the last month and a half to completely sps. Everything seems to be doing well. I am still learning the SPS world and am trying to so everything I can to optimize grown while still keeping beautiful colors.

If anyone has any input I do have a spongode colony I bought from a member about a year ago. When I purchased it was a bright vibrant green. It is still extremely heathy but has transitioned to the mouths all being brown and the new growth just bright green. Any input?

Edit: http://s1274.photobucket.com/albums/y424/Schreck081884/?action=view¤t=07765b24b8b4b3ef0a2cc88585448e8a_zpse1a80fd1.jpg&evt=user_media_share" alt="" />

Edit: [IMG]http://s1274.photobucket.com/albums/y424/Schreck081884/?action=view¤t=07765b24b8b4b3ef0a2cc88585448e8a_zpse1a80fd1.jpg&evt=user_media_share">http://s1274.photobucket.com/albums/y424/Schreck081884/?action=view¤t=07765b24b8b4b3ef0a2cc88585448e8a_zpse1a80fd1.jpg&evt=user_media_share</a>