Lowering Phosphates

[rk4435]

A couple of days ago I posted a picture to confirm red slime algae. I believe I was able to manually remove it and now the concern is lowering my Phosphate level.

My Seachem test kit shows a level of 1.5. I do a 10% water change every ten days. I have heard about chemical and Vodka removal. I wanted to see how the experts here handle it. I am not sure of the source and can only assume that I am overfeeding.

 

[jetlink82]

Chemiclean works very well. If you use it you will have to turn off you skimmer for a few days followed by a water change. Works great.

To lower your phosphate I use GFO. I use Bulk Reef Supply GFO in a reactor and phosphates have been undetectable in my tank ever since.

 

[jennm]

Chemiclean will kill the cyanobacter (it's a bacterium, not an algae.. but they behave very similarly).

There are different ways to remove phosphates, so there are several answers to the questions - none are "wrong".

I like Seachem Phosguard - it's simple, easy to use, and effective. There are also filter pads made by Deep Blue and HBH that absorb phosphate.

Or you can use GFO, or carbon dosing...

Like I said, there are many ways.

One thing to also consider is where the phosphate is coming from. Source water? Food? That should be addressed too, in addition to removing what's there, trying to limit what is introduced as well.

Jenn

 

[dylan j_]

When dosing pure vitamin C it will removed phosphates and kill off all algae as well increase colors in corals as well as heal them. Might want to look into it. I have a whole dosing recipe if interested

Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk 2

 

[rk4435]

Thanks for the advice guys. I have heard of "new baby" syndrome and perhaps that is what happened. The little guy is not yet three weeks old and nothing has changed with my maintenance methods so I guess it is just jealous.


I can't spring for a reactor right now so I will look into the pads or maybe try to Vitamin C method. From what I read about vodka dosing it could take a long time. Since I use ro/di water it must be from over feeding.

 

[ralph atl]

rk4435;928959 wrote: Thanks for the advice guys. I have heard of "new baby" syndrome and perhaps that is what happened. The little guy is not yet three weeks old and nothing has changed with my maintenance methods so I guess it is just jealous.


I can't spring for a reactor right now so I will look into the pads or maybe try to Vitamin C method. From what I read about vodka dosing it could take a long time. Since I use ro/di water it must be from over feeding.

I have 2 media reactors, albeit one needs 10 inch outcase & cartridge (cheap at brs), and the other is good to go, but not for gfo, as it's the Sea one. perfect for Seachem Matrix, etc....you get one MJ1200 pump included. AND, a brand new (OK, I used it once), Hanna low range phosphate egg test kit.

and more, lol

Thanks for serving and teaching!

 

[nickh06]

JennM;928891 wrote: Chemiclean will kill the cyanobacter (it's a bacterium, not an algae.. but they behave very similarly).

There are different ways to remove phosphates, so there are several answers to the questions - none are "wrong".

I like Seachem Phosguard - it's simple, easy to use, and effective. There are also filter pads made by Deep Blue and HBH that absorb phosphate.

Or you can use GFO, or carbon dosing...

Like I said, there are many ways.

One thing to also consider is where the phosphate is coming from. Source water? Food? That should be addressed too, in addition to removing what's there, trying to limit what is introduced as well.

Jenn

Jenn,

what is your thoughts on vodka dosing? I have been on the fence for awhile about it.

 

[dylan j_]

Here is my write up on Vitamin C (does the same thing as vodka dosing but cheaper in the long run)

 

[jennm]

Nickh06;929077 wrote: Jenn,

what is your thoughts on vodka dosing? I have been on the fence for awhile about it.

I have never done it.

My thoughts? Drink the vodka, use a good husbandry and products designed for use in the aquarium. :lol:

Jenn

 

[skriz]

JennM;929224 wrote: I have never dadt.

My thoughts? Drink the vodka, use a good husbandry and products designed for use in a way!n the aquarium. :lol:

Jenn

This.

I too like seachem phosgaurd..it's great stuff.
Like Jenn said, find the source & address that if possible too.

Lastly, don't cheap out and get crappy vodka; it'll make you go blind. Although, that would cure your cyanobacteria issue I

 

[nickh06]

JennM;929224 wrote: I have never done it.

My thoughts? Drink the vodka, use a good husbandry and products designed for use in the aquarium. :lol:

Jenn

Haha well that settles that. Good call!

Edit:

Skriz;929228 wrote: This.

I too like seachem phosgaurd..it's great stuff.
Like Jenn said, find the source & address that if possible too.

Lastly, don't cheap out and get crappy vodka; it'll make you go blind. Although, that would cure your cyanobacteria issue I

What do you run the phosguard in? The source for me is over feeding but it's not a problem. I cut back recently and do run gfo but always open to new ideas.

 

[jennm]

You can put it in a bag in the sump, or if you want to be fancy, you can put it in a reactor. It should NOT tumble. We used it in a reactor, you can use it with carbon too if you wish (or Seachem Seagel is a combination of both, but I prefer to control the quantities using the individual products) Pack it snug, so it doesn't tumble, but not so tight that the water can't go through it. The spherical shape of the Phosguard (and Matrix Carbon) gives both products good surface exposure to the water to maximize contact so they can do their jobs efficiently.

You can read more about Phosguard here: http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/PhosGuard.html">http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/PhosGuard.html</a>

Truth be told, I don't really like Vodka. I'm more of a Rum person ;) (Do NOT put Rum in your tank!!!!)

Jenn

 

[skriz]

Nickh06;929231 wrote: Haha well that settles that. Good call!

Edit:

What do you run the phosguard in? The source for me is over feeding but it's not a problem. I cut back recently and do run gfo but always open to new ideas.

I always run media in a reactor. You get far superior efficiency vs. a bag.

I don't beleive in this thing called overfeeding. Whenever I see that, I think under-filtering (via equipment or water changes). I like my fish to eat a lot and eat often. So, I do whatever it takes to accomplish that and still have optimal water quality.

 

[ringo®]

A few discussions going on about Phosguard and activated aluminum and it's effect on soft corals (look for a discussion by Randy Holmes-Farley and the follow up claims of shennanigans by other users.) Don't have an opinion either way as I don't use it, but it may be worth a read.

 

[jennm]

Ringo®;929438 wrote: A few discussions going on about Phosguard and activated aluminum and it's effect on soft corals (look for a discussion by Randy Holmes-Farley and the follow up claims of shennanigans by other users.) Don't have an opinion either way as I don't use it, but it may be worth a read.

Seachem addresses that: http://www.seachem.com/support/Support.html#faq8">http://www.seachem.com/support/Support.html#faq8</a>

I remember when we attended Seachem training, they provided us with a copy of a study that was done by an independent lab that showed no ill effects. I looked on the website to see if it's posted there, but I didn't find it right away. I have a paper copy of the study in my book, which isn't handy at the moment, but it puts to rest any concerns about that.

Edit- found it! [IMG]http://www.seachem.com/support/FAQs/PhosGuard.html">http://www.seachem.com/support/FAQs/PhosGuard.html</a> The PDF is at the bottom. I'll try to upload it here.

Jenn
<fieldset class="gc-fieldset">
<legend> Attached files </legend> [IMG]http://atlantareefclub.org/boards/data/uploads/attachments/929528=51372-AluminumSolubilityToxicity.pdf" target="_blank" class="gc-files">AluminumSolubilityToxicity.pdf</a> <span class="gc-filesize">(1.7 MB)</span> </fieldset>

 

[ralph atl]

There was a member not too long ago, stated that phosguard killed all his corals, albeit he didn't rinse it...still.

I prefer GFO, as it is much more efficient. Phosguard, is inexpensive, however...GFO is used for human drinking water, btw.

 

[twhaddon]

My polyps and mushroom had started to die and I could not figure out why as the parameters were all good. I was also using Phosguard. I had heard that it was not very good so I decided to switch to a GFO. My mushroom is starting to look better now, but my polyps and a few zoas are gone. I'm not sure if the Phosguard was the issue or not, but I will only be using GFO from now on.

 

[jennm]

I've used Phosguard for well over a decade. We used it in all our store systems and the 45 or so tanks we maintained, with NO ill effects. It's a lot less risky than many of the other products available, in my experience.

Like I said before - there are many ways to accomplish phosphate reduction/removal. I've found Phosguard to be about the safest. I guess it's up to the individual to decide what works best for them, and their tank.

GFO, if not used correctly, can be problematic. So can liquid phosphate removers, if over-dosed.

Any product designed for that application, will work if used correctly. There's the trick - using it *correctly*. Too many people don't read the directions and then use something improperly and then blame the product when there's a mishap.

Jenn