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wantsummora acropora

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Playing whack-a-mole with my reef tank. Currently battling GHA, cyano and Neptune systems equipment. This hobby is not easy. It took me a long time to get all of my parameters right and now I’m dealing with this. The cyano is easy, the GHA is a beast and my Apex is truly a love/hate relationship. I have a plan for the GHA but would love to hear from those who fought this battle. My GHA problem is a 5 on a 1-10 scale but is getting worse by the day.
 
What are your NO3 and PO4 at? How heavy are you feeding and what methods of nutrient export are you running? Fluconazole will kill the GHA if used properly but need a good means of removing the resulting nutrients released back into the water or it will just feed more algae.
 
What has worked for me:
1) Get stuff that eats algae
a) a whole bunch of urchins, like 1 for every 10 gallons. You'll hate them later when they plow through your frags and snap colonies in half, but you can rehome them when that time comes.
b) a tang or three, foxface, etc.
2) Put in a big refugium or algae scrubber to out compete growth in your display
3) Vibrant on a doser
4) Fluconazole is good for a quick fix to knock it back, but 1-3 are more long term controls while you wait for #5
5) Time for the ecosystem to stabilize
6) Scale back 1-3 as things get better
 
NO3 at 4 and PO4 .05 last checked a week ago. Export is a filter roller and skimmer. I was using Rods food but I suspect that is the main culprit and I’m sure I was over feeding. Also in the evening I fed pellets. I switched to pure mysis and nori for my tangs and only 1 feeding per day (nori every other day). I want to run a refugium but I need a bigger sump.
 
What has worked for me:
1) Get stuff that eats algae
a) a whole bunch of urchins, like 1 for every 10 gallons. You'll hate them later when they plow through your frags and snap colonies in half, but you can rehome them when that time comes.
b) a tang or three, foxface, etc.
2) Put in a big refugium or algae scrubber to out compete growth in your display
3) Vibrant on a doser
4) Fluconazole is good for a quick fix to knock it back, but 1-3 are more long term controls while you wait for #5
5) Time for the ecosystem to stabilize
6) Scale back 1-3 as things get better
I definitely agree with 1, 2 and 4. Vibrant did nothing for me. Tangs also did nothing, but urchins yes. Also, cannot stress enough - physical removal. The nice thing about fluconazole is that it makes the remaining GHA very very easy to remove by hand. I have a simple algae scrubber as well, now. No GHA problems in over 2 years.
 
What has worked for me:
1) Get stuff that eats algae
a) a whole bunch of urchins, like 1 for every 10 gallons. You'll hate them later when they plow through your frags and snap colonies in half, but you can rehome them when that time comes.
b) a tang or three, foxface, etc.
2) Put in a big refugium or algae scrubber to out compete growth in your display
3) Vibrant on a doser
4) Fluconazole is good for a quick fix to knock it back, but 1-3 are more long term controls while you wait for #5
5) Time for the ecosystem to stabilize
6) Scale back 1-3 as things get better

I definitely agree with 1, 2 and 4. Vibrant did nothing for me. Tangs also did nothing, but urchins yes. Also, cannot stress enough - physical removal. The nice thing about fluconazole is that it makes the remaining GHA very very easy to remove by hand. I have a simple algae scrubber as well, now. No GHA problems in over 2 years.
I've been dosing Vibrant for a month as of today at 15ml's a week. Either it is not working, it needs more time to work or my problem would be a lot worse without it.
 
You can get an algae reactor or a turf scrubber and that will help keep things more in line if your nutrients continue to remain high enough for those GHA outbreaks. Your true nitrate phosphate readings are probably much higher if the GHA did not exist. So, removing or using a chemical to kill the GHA is going to cause issues if you don’t solve or deal with the high nutrients. You can add to the CUC and reduce or change your feed. You can also use chemical removal to help lower nutrients. You can use reef flux. Mechanical removal with your hands. Lots of options.
 
The only guys I know who are local for acrylic fabrication of sumps are big fish custom acrylic in Woodstock and MRC.
 
I don't any of the qualifications in the title... 🤪

If you use GFO to drive the PO4 to near zero the GHA will start dying pretty quickly. But it will really piss off any SPS you have, probably kill several pieces. Your numbers aren't crazy high though. This is another reason why I have waited so long to add coral to my system. To get through the uglies.

I'd stop the Vibrant if you have any cheato but I think you said you didn't. If you don't then up the dose but don't use a doser add each dose all at one time. Hit it with twice a week doses at the recommended rate for you water volume. When you start seeing the GHA floating around in the display it's time to get your hands wet and start pulling it out. Once things are cleared up stop dosing the Vibrant, do a decent sized water change and have the CUC in place to keep it clean.

In the meantime if there is any GHA rubbing against coral frags remove it to stop the irritation and give them a shot at growing. You are also going to need to figure out a little better export system. Until the display is chock full of growing coral you need to help it stay stabile and a roller mat and skimmer aren't going to cut it alone. Carbon dosing will give you some help without needing to add anything beyond a doser, a trip to the liquor store and time reading up on carbon dosing. The skimmer will be the main export for the bacteria. An ATS instead of a fuge will actually cost to same or less and get you started faster. Just need to see if you have the room to fit one.

Beyond that it's a fuge or GFO reactor. GFO is not a long term solution for me, but it works. More frequent water changes will help, water out is an export too, just not very efficient.

**Edit** Dr Tims Waste Away and or Eco-balance are good products as well. I just wouldn't use either along side Vibrant. Pick one and stick with it.
 
I have been battling GHA in my office system for a few months. I finally decided to use Reef Flux(flucanazole). If you catch the GHA before it gets too bad flucanazole will not nuke the tank as long as you actively pull most of it out as it starts to die off. After 2 days past the initial treatment spend 10-15 minutes twice a day removing as much as you can. Then after 12-14 days(depends on the tank and nutrient levels) I removed 25% of the water. I saved some in a 5 g bucket, removed the rocks that still had some GHA and scrubbed them in the bucket. This will get you close to GHA free. From there you will still need to optimize nutrient export to prevent it all from happening again.

Its been awhile since we moved the tank onto the stand. Can you post a picture of underneath the stand so we can see how much room you have to work with? Honestly for a large tank I would go with a turf scrubber rather than a refugium especially if the refugium requires a compete overhaul of the sump.
 
Playing whack-a-mole with my reef tank. Currently battling GHA, cyano and Neptune systems equipment. This hobby is not easy. It took me a long time to get all of my parameters right and now I’m dealing with this. The cyano is easy, the GHA is a beast and my Apex is truly a love/hate relationship. I have a plan for the GHA but would love to hear from those who fought this battle. My GHA problem is a 5 on a 1-10 scale but is getting worse by the day.

Not to skip the first step, it is important to identify "what is your objective?
 
I don't any of the qualifications in the title... 🤪

If you use GFO to drive the PO4 to near zero the GHA will start dying pretty quickly. But it will really piss off any SPS you have, probably kill several pieces. Your numbers aren't crazy high though. This is another reason why I have waited so long to add coral to my system. To get through the uglies.

I'd stop the Vibrant if you have any cheato but I think you said you didn't. If you don't then up the dose but don't use a doser add each dose all at one time. Hit it with twice a week doses at the recommended rate for you water volume. When you start seeing the GHA floating around in the display it's time to get your hands wet and start pulling it out. Once things are cleared up stop dosing the Vibrant, do a decent sized water change and have the CUC in place to keep it clean.

In the meantime if there is any GHA rubbing against coral frags remove it to stop the irritation and give them a shot at growing. You are also going to need to figure out a little better export system. Until the display is chock full of growing coral you need to help it stay stabile and a roller mat and skimmer aren't going to cut it alone. Carbon dosing will give you some help without needing to add anything beyond a doser, a trip to the liquor store and time reading up on carbon dosing. The skimmer will be the main export for the bacteria. An ATS instead of a fuge will actually cost to same or less and get you started faster. Just need to see if you have the room to fit one.

Beyond that it's a fuge or GFO reactor. GFO is not a long term solution for me, but it works. More frequent water changes will help, water out is an export too, just not very efficient.

**Edit** Dr Tims Waste Away and or Eco-balance are good products as well. I just wouldn't use either along side Vibrant. Pick one and stick with it.
The thread title was only meant to express my frustration with what it takes to be successful in this hobby.
Not to skip the first step, it is important to identify "what is your objective?
in a nutshell…I want a naturally balanced ecosystem.
 
I just found out a few minutes ago that Tropic Marin has released a bad batch of salt (see my last post). This does correspond closely to the death of some of my acros and other issues listed above. I also have that brown crud in my storage tank which is uncommon to Tropic Marin users.
 
Very steep with lots of grey areas and methods to arrive at the same goal.
There are many different options and methods to achieve the same outcome. Picking an approach the fits your lifestyle and wallet will most likely be the best. Do you have someone near you that has a successful system? Hell, that in itself is subjective... lol. But finding someone you trust to mentor you through this stage could prove very helpful and less confusing.
 
I don’t know, I’ve reached out in the past trying to find a mentor but I got no hits. I guess with Covid going around people are hesitant to make new friends in person. I’m in Buckhead and it seems most people are in the Marietta or Duluth area.
 
Do you know if its quality work?
The Woodstock crew built my pest tank and it is a beast- solid construction thick acrylic. Good workmanship. My super large kalk reactor is an MRC product- I love it- and their sumps are beautiful but so so so expensive. If I did not love my critters in my refugiums so much, I would use an auto turf scrubber any day over a refugium. Unless your refugium is large enough to handle nutrient export, it is not going to help you. Whereas, an ATS can be calculated to the frozen cube fed daily for good nutrient export and sometimes too good….
 
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