Milli and acro... no polyp extension. Ideas?
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Nope Charlie, it looks just like its larger neighbor. Color is fine, but... polyps are not showing. Well, actually, there is only enough visible at the best of times to see the tiniest hint that there is something in those holes, but it never extends. It's certainly not the milli, it's something tank related. I'm going to try to bum a charity recheck of phosphate and nitrate numbers from Ansley tonight.
Nope, maybe a TINY bit more extension than before. All are still colored just fine and some are showing noticeable growth. The red milli is growing, but looks like it is bald. I am just about ready to say to heck with it and let 'em stay naked if they are otherwise happy.
UPDATE:
Bringing this thread back from the dead, because I've got a new clue. The corals in question are extending their polyps (quite well, I may add) after lights out (and staying open for a few hours). By the time morning approaches, they are back to hidden polyps. Still getting very good growth out of these guys, too.
Does that set off any light bulbs over any heads?
Bringing this thread back from the dead, because I've got a new clue. The corals in question are extending their polyps (quite well, I may add) after lights out (and staying open for a few hours). By the time morning approaches, they are back to hidden polyps. Still getting very good growth out of these guys, too.
Does that set off any light bulbs over any heads?
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What happens if the lights are out for a day, like if you leave them off? Do the polyps extend, or is it set on a schedule? It'd be interesting if you left the lights off for a day and saw extension from those corals during normal daylight hours.
Is it possible that you have TOO much flow on the corals? "High flow" means a lot of different things to different people. You obviously don't want to be stripping the flesh off the skeleton.
I only ask because many people run their powerheads slower at night, so I wonder if the milli is retracting while there's too much flow.
I only ask because many people run their powerheads slower at night, so I wonder if the milli is retracting while there's too much flow.
Joe,
I have. No sign of anything... and am I wrong or do red bugs not "infect" milliporas? I have also spent a lot of time watching the fish (mainly the flame angel) and have never seen any of them even glance at corals. The Lawnmower Blenny does "park" on a frag rack while he kisses the glass, but not the one these corals are on.
All my parameters are OK and stable... Ca tends to drop faster than other parameters, so if I get sloppy on my dosing it will drop to 425 or so. Temp varies less that one degree/day- last 24 hours were a low of 79.2 and a high of 79.9. Really, the only question mark I have with regard to parameters is phosphate level, because many say I won't get a decent reading with a Salifert kit. The only way I've had to check that is with reference solution. While it isn't a low-level number, the reference solution checked dead-on. I don't expect true accuracy with it nonetheless, because it tests at <.03ppm. (The color actually matches pure white, or zero. I will be fair and just say it is whiter than the .03 color.) I don't think I'm that low, even running a TLF reactor with Phosgard.
skriz
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There is nothing out there to show that the Elos kits are more accurate than any other. I've tested these kits against Salifer, Seachem and API and have found API to be a very respectable test kit. Key to testing is performing the test correctly and keeping the reagents fresh (this is with ANY test kit).
I have verified the kits against each other and with a phosphate colorimeter, calcium monitor and ph monitor where applicable.
Moving on..Have you checked for a cracked bulb? A cracked bulb will still fire and light the corals, but will emit a ton of UV damaging the corals. If they're DE, then check the shielding to make sure it's in tact.
Have you performed a monster water change to see if that makes any difference?
Raj, I've done WCs as high as 32 gallons at once (on 90/30 sump). That's the size of my Brute so that's as large as I can do at once.
I have DE bulbs, and the UV shields are intact. The only flow change at night is one of my PHs (a K3) turns off at night. However, I don't suspect that as a factor because at the time this saga started, the K3 wasn't even in the tank. It was added later for daylight hours only.
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I remember that when my lights were getting old all my sps stopped extending their polyps. At first they were ok but then they started to rtn. As soon as I put in knew lights they started extending their polyps agian. All I can figure is that my PAR dropped quite a bit and upset them.
The bulbs are 3-4 month old Phoenix 14Ks, 2x250w. Also have 2x54w T5 actinics under the hood.
As an example of how the growth is doing, this Tub's Birdsnest was a two-stemmed "check mark" shaped frag when I got it about 5 weeks ago. All the rest of the points are new. I didn't even realize what they looked like with polyps out until I saw a photo of somebody else's (maybe JohnR's?). It seems that SOMETHING is going right in my tank:
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As an example of how the growth is doing, this Tub's Birdsnest was a two-stemmed "check mark" shaped frag when I got it about 5 weeks ago. All the rest of the points are new. I didn't even realize what they looked like with polyps out until I saw a photo of somebody else's (maybe JohnR's?). It seems that SOMETHING is going right in my tank:
