My first anemone...have question.
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I have heard that you build an island and put it there and hope it will stay. For the most part they will travel when and where they want to, stinging everything in the path
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BTA, like a "rubble pile" a place that they can put the foot in between the rocks and branch out from there. Other then creating a spot like that, there is really no way to tell a BTA to stay put, they kinda do what they want!
Kinda make a island of rock away from other parts of the aquascape that would discourage moving since it would be harder to get from A to B since there's a gap there, to make it hard to get somewhere else and also away from powerheads, so the guy doesn't get turned to sushi
Woot Woot Brandon! Thanks for the help. I am just speaking from research, you speak from exper. So its a lot more helpful. Yay!!
(sidenote) I dug out those powerheads to send to the meeting, I only have 3 that worked but I can pull the one from my phos. Reactor to make it 4.
(sidenote) I dug out those powerheads to send to the meeting, I only have 3 that worked but I can pull the one from my phos. Reactor to make it 4.
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I have found this method works quite well:
<span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Training An Anemone To Stay - Step by Step</span></span>
<span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">1.</span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;"> Put your anemone into the position you would like him/her to stay in (use your sit, down or stand commands) and stand directly in front of him. After about 1 or 2 seconds, if your anemone is still in the position you requested, give him some praise and a treat. You are rewarding the behavior you are looking for which is a stay, even if it is only 1 seconds worth to start with. As soon as you give your praise and treat, the behavior is over (this is your signal for your anemone to release from his stay) so it is fine if your anemone moves off. Then you begin the process again from the start, this time maybe hold your praise and treat off for 3 or 4 seconds. Just take it slowly and if your anemone breaks out of the stay at any time before you have given him the release command, simply say aah-aah, don't give the treat and start the process again. </span></span>
<span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">2.</span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;"> The next step is to add a verbal command and hand signal to step 1. It goes like this - once again stand directly in front of your anemone and place him in the position you would like him to stay in. Now as soon as he is in the desired position say "stay" and at the same time hold your hand out in front of you, with your palm facing out towards your anemone's nose (like a stop sign motion). Now after waiting a second or two praise and reward your anemone for staying in this position (sit-stay or down-stay etc.). As was the case in step 1 you can now repeat this process over and over, gradually increasing the time between your "stay" command and your praise and treat. What you are doing is building an association in your anemone's mind between your verbal "stay" command and the act of staying in the one spot. </span></span>
<span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">3.</span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;"> You've now got the stay command sorted - in it's most basic form anyway. It's now time to add some other variables and build upon it. Many trainers label this proofing stage as the three D's - Duration, Distance and Distractions. Up until now (in steps 1 and 2) you have been working in a familiar environment free from distractions and you've just been standing right in front of your anemone. Let's mix it up a little, adding one new variable at a time. Start out by issuing your "stay" command with your hand signal, now take a step backwards, pause, then step back towards your anemone. If your anemone has remained in his sit-stay or down-stay, praise him and give him a tasty treat. Continue to repeat this process, gradually increasing the amount of steps you take back - always remember to return back to your anemone before you reward him. Keep in mind what it is you are actually rewarding him for (the stay) and if he gets up to move away he shouldn't be receiving a reward or treat. The next challenge you can add to the stay command is to move your training session to a different location, possibly somewhere with a few distractions such as other people or animals. Remember take it slowly and only add one new variable at a time. Another good idea is to practice your stays anytime throughout the day. For example make your anemone "stay" when you go out to collect the mail or "stay" when you are preparing his dinner. </span></span>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">A game you can play with your anemone to reinforce the "stay" command is hide and seek. This game is heaps of fun and all you do is place your anemone in a down-stay then run off and hide. When you are ready, sing out your release command and your anemone will set off to track you down.</span></span>
:shades:
<span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Training An Anemone To Stay - Step by Step</span></span>
<span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">1.</span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;"> Put your anemone into the position you would like him/her to stay in (use your sit, down or stand commands) and stand directly in front of him. After about 1 or 2 seconds, if your anemone is still in the position you requested, give him some praise and a treat. You are rewarding the behavior you are looking for which is a stay, even if it is only 1 seconds worth to start with. As soon as you give your praise and treat, the behavior is over (this is your signal for your anemone to release from his stay) so it is fine if your anemone moves off. Then you begin the process again from the start, this time maybe hold your praise and treat off for 3 or 4 seconds. Just take it slowly and if your anemone breaks out of the stay at any time before you have given him the release command, simply say aah-aah, don't give the treat and start the process again. </span></span>
<span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">2.</span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;"> The next step is to add a verbal command and hand signal to step 1. It goes like this - once again stand directly in front of your anemone and place him in the position you would like him to stay in. Now as soon as he is in the desired position say "stay" and at the same time hold your hand out in front of you, with your palm facing out towards your anemone's nose (like a stop sign motion). Now after waiting a second or two praise and reward your anemone for staying in this position (sit-stay or down-stay etc.). As was the case in step 1 you can now repeat this process over and over, gradually increasing the time between your "stay" command and your praise and treat. What you are doing is building an association in your anemone's mind between your verbal "stay" command and the act of staying in the one spot. </span></span>
<span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">3.</span></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;"> You've now got the stay command sorted - in it's most basic form anyway. It's now time to add some other variables and build upon it. Many trainers label this proofing stage as the three D's - Duration, Distance and Distractions. Up until now (in steps 1 and 2) you have been working in a familiar environment free from distractions and you've just been standing right in front of your anemone. Let's mix it up a little, adding one new variable at a time. Start out by issuing your "stay" command with your hand signal, now take a step backwards, pause, then step back towards your anemone. If your anemone has remained in his sit-stay or down-stay, praise him and give him a tasty treat. Continue to repeat this process, gradually increasing the amount of steps you take back - always remember to return back to your anemone before you reward him. Keep in mind what it is you are actually rewarding him for (the stay) and if he gets up to move away he shouldn't be receiving a reward or treat. The next challenge you can add to the stay command is to move your training session to a different location, possibly somewhere with a few distractions such as other people or animals. Remember take it slowly and only add one new variable at a time. Another good idea is to practice your stays anytime throughout the day. For example make your anemone "stay" when you go out to collect the mail or "stay" when you are preparing his dinner. </span></span>
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Verdana;">A game you can play with your anemone to reinforce the "stay" command is hide and seek. This game is heaps of fun and all you do is place your anemone in a down-stay then run off and hide. When you are ready, sing out your release command and your anemone will set off to track you down.</span></span>
:shades:
Sounds like what I'm going to teach my show dog when I get her lol
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Along the same lines as Mark's dog training:
Keep in mind that not all bubble tips are the same. I actually think there is enough diversity for some to be labeled a different species or at least a subspecies. As such, some are inherently more likely to move than others. The reddish footed RBTAs for example are movers whereas the white footed ones are not.
Try to get one from a reputable breeder whose nems typically don't move and you'll be in better shape. If you start with good stock its a lot easier to train em
. My nems will only move after a split as they tear apart from each other, they both wander about a bit looking for a good spot. I don't bug them while they're healing, but once they are healed I gently coax them to the spot I want them in with the following:
As such I use positive reinforcement, negative reinforcement, and physical barriers to keep my nems in the spot I want. The initial step is to place the nem in a spot where its foot can be wedged fairly securely in the rockwork. Mind you, most BTAs like to hang upside down at night, so an overhang is preferable.
If the BTA is on the spot you want it to be in, and extending the direction you want it to, then feed it. This is the positive reinforcement portion. If it comes out in a manner that displeases you... don't feed it. Of course if you have clowns that feed your nem, this doesn't always work too well.
With the negative reinforcement portion, if its somewhere I don't want it to be. I will use a stick and detach the nem's body from the rockwork forcing it to contract back to its foot. I then poke the foot a few times with the stick for good measure. Make sure you tell the nem its being a "bad nem". Try the Cesar Milan "shhh" as well.
As for physical barriers, most corals cannot stand up to a BTA. The one exception is a milli. I find that the BTA will actually retract its tentacle once it hits a milli. As such, I have a lil forest of millis surrounding my BTA area to keep it "fenced" in. Sure the BTA will sting the milli, but the milli will sting right back and there seems to be "detente" between them if you will. I don't have any hydnos, but I imagine they might do well against a BTA as well.
G'luck.
Keep in mind that not all bubble tips are the same. I actually think there is enough diversity for some to be labeled a different species or at least a subspecies. As such, some are inherently more likely to move than others. The reddish footed RBTAs for example are movers whereas the white footed ones are not.
Try to get one from a reputable breeder whose nems typically don't move and you'll be in better shape. If you start with good stock its a lot easier to train em
. My nems will only move after a split as they tear apart from each other, they both wander about a bit looking for a good spot. I don't bug them while they're healing, but once they are healed I gently coax them to the spot I want them in with the following:As such I use positive reinforcement, negative reinforcement, and physical barriers to keep my nems in the spot I want. The initial step is to place the nem in a spot where its foot can be wedged fairly securely in the rockwork. Mind you, most BTAs like to hang upside down at night, so an overhang is preferable.
If the BTA is on the spot you want it to be in, and extending the direction you want it to, then feed it. This is the positive reinforcement portion. If it comes out in a manner that displeases you... don't feed it. Of course if you have clowns that feed your nem, this doesn't always work too well
.With the negative reinforcement portion, if its somewhere I don't want it to be. I will use a stick and detach the nem's body from the rockwork forcing it to contract back to its foot. I then poke the foot a few times with the stick for good measure. Make sure you tell the nem its being a "bad nem". Try the Cesar Milan "shhh" as well.
As for physical barriers, most corals cannot stand up to a BTA. The one exception is a milli. I find that the BTA will actually retract its tentacle once it hits a milli. As such, I have a lil forest of millis surrounding my BTA area to keep it "fenced" in. Sure the BTA will sting the milli, but the milli will sting right back and there seems to be "detente" between them if you will. I don't have any hydnos, but I imagine they might do well against a BTA as well.
G'luck.
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Some millies actually "win" against the RBTA. The yellow milli and blue milli are clearly victorious when they meet the nem. On the other hand the red, teal, and the peach milli all take some damage but are able to repulse the RBTA which doesn't really have that strong of a sting anyways.
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Your talking about Acro. millepora, not Millepora sp., right? Millepora sp. (fire coral), will win aganist anything.
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