My Tang needs some help!

Cool I got some Baking Soda, now I just have to catch this
guy...No luck so far this morning catching him. **** he is fast.
 
Use your ph probe to test the fw dip. You'll have to maintain temp too.
 
I thought part of the reason the FW dip idea worked was the difference in PH. Wouldn't adjusting the PH of the FW higher defeat the purpose?
 
Dakota9;420402 wrote: I thought part of the reason the FW dip idea worked was the difference in PH. Wouldn't adjusting the PH of the FW higher defeat the purpose?

Negative ghost rider. Ph is like temperature -- Ph is an environmental control. Salinity is totally different than Ph.

Think really strong acids or bases -- like hydrochloric or muratic acid.. It has nothing to do with Salt.
 
phoenix20;420407 wrote: Negative ghost rider. Ph is like temperature -- Ph is an environmental control. Salinity is totally different than Ph.

Think really strong acids or bases -- like hydrochloric or muratic acid.. It has nothing to do with Salt.


I never said it had anything to do with salt. I've know many people that do freshwater dips that don't adjust the PH that have good results. 6 months ago, I FW dipped my clowns without adjusting the PH (I had no QT system, and did it as a precaution before putting them in the display. They are of course to this day, fine.
 
Freshwater dips work on the principle of osmosis. Solutions with different amounts of dissolved minerals (like salts) represent a difference of potential, in this case osmotic potential. These solutions when seperated by semi-permeable membranes, such as cell walls of parasites, will try to reach the same concentration. Since salts/minerals cannot pass through the membrane of the cell, the fluid (water) will move in the other direction in an attempt to equalize thei concentrations. This causes the parasite's cells to swell-up with water, and hopefully burst, since the parasite has been in salt water up until the fresh water dip. When enough of the parasite's cells burst, it dies.
 
James S.;420037 wrote: Well unfortunately I dont have a Ph test to make sure the freshwater is the same... I guess I could stick my probe from my Pinpoint in there....How do you guys do them?

My next task would be catching him, which may be impossible.:doh:

If he's still eating well, turn off the PH's. Put your net in the water and show the food to the fish. Use a floating food and put some in near the net, when he comes to eat, snag him.
 
Dakota9;420402 wrote: I thought part of the reason the FW dip idea worked was the difference in PH. Wouldn't adjusting the PH of the FW higher defeat the purpose?

phoenix20;420407 wrote: Negative ghost rider. Ph is like temperature -- Ph is an environmental control. Salinity is totally different than Ph.

Think really strong acids or bases -- like hydrochloric or muratic acid.. It has nothing to do with Salt.

Dakota9;420412 wrote: I never said it had anything to do with salt. I've know many people that do freshwater dips that don't adjust the PH that have good results. 6 months ago, I FW dipped my clowns without adjusting the PH (I had no QT system, and did it as a precaution before putting them in the display. They are of course to this day, fine.

Not trying to start a debate here at all. Just a good analogy on pH by Anthony Calfo...

"...is why acclimation of pH is so important. Think of it like being on a beach at the equator, wearing shorts and sandals. Then suddenly you find yourself wearing shorts and sandals at the north pole. The shock to aquaria is much the same..." "...a stable number within the acceptable range is much more important..."

pH won't harm the parasite as much as the stressed animal. The parasite is thriving and the fish is not. When doing FW dips, it's best to get the water as closely matched to the aquarium water in regards to params with the exception of salinity. The least amount of stress you can put on the fish during the process the better.

I agree with you Dakota that it can be done and I have done it with RO/DI water and a heater only with no ill side effects. The only caution lies in how stressed the fish is to start with. A very sick fish may not survive the additional stress.
 
Well I have not caught him, and I have given up... He appears healthy and Im not even sure what is on him is a parasite... It also looks like it could been caused by rubbing against a coral or possibly stung by one of my carpet anenomes.... so I guess only time will tell... I felt like I was stressing the fish out more then anything..
 
dawgdude;420519 wrote: If its still eating and swimming around fine then I wouldnt worry about it. I hope it does ok.

Yeah unfortunately eating and swimming doesnt always tell all, I have found out in the past, but Im hoping for the best... I REALLY like this guy and it would suck if he died on me...
 
Catching him proved to be impossible, I decided to just let him be, seeing he was still very active and eating as usual. I come back home from Thanksgiving holidays out of town, and its all cleared up...so I am guessing whatever it was, either run its course or the Tang was able to fight it.

All in all I am certainly pleased, its not very often these sorts of things, for me anyways, turns into a positive situation... I would have surely missed this fish If he would have passed.
 
James S.;423691 wrote: Catching him proved to be impossible, I decided to just let him be, seeing he was still very active and eating as usual. I come back home from Thanksgiving holidays out of town, and its all cleared up...so I am guessing whatever it was, either run its course or the Tang was able to fight it.

All in all I am certainly pleased, its not very often these sorts of things, for me anyways, turns into a positive situation... I would have surely missed this fish If he would have passed.

Great news James! Thanks for keeping us posted.
 
Back
Top