Need help

[ripped tide]

From air water and ice's web site::


Water Temperature: Usually, the supply line is installed on the cold water line. This is because hot water lines are above the 100 degree limit of the RO membrane. Of course, freezing temperatures will freeze the membrane and cause it to foul.
If your water is cold; try to get a bucket (or something to hold water in) and some extra supply tubing (about 10-15 feet). Coil the tubing in the bucket and fill the bucket with hot water. This will gradually heat the water back up.
For hot water, a chiller before the unit would be okay. You can also use the bucket trick, but fill it with cold water and/or ice.
You can mix hot and cold water (especially if you have the faucet adaptor), but we recommend the bucket method more.
Water Pressure : (Yes, you should get a $15 pressure gauge)
If it's low (below 40 psi), get a booster pump. They're easy to install and work great. If it's too high without a booster pump, get a pressure regulator. These are also easy to install and use.
Remember; clear housings can only withstand up to 75 psi. White housings can withstand up to 100 psi.

 

[heathlindner25]

I just talked to Trombley he said if he wants to store one he will put it in a ziplock bag with RO water, and he'll put it in the refrigerator. not the freezer sorry

 

[joseayes]

I have heard that during any inactive time it should've stored below 0 F. To prevent from bacteria build up, it also shows that in the manufacturer instructions. I haven't test the TDS after that.

 

[joseayes]

Ooops, I have heard wrong then, I tough that during inactive period time storage the membrane below 0 F would prevent from bacteria build up.

Well at least I'm installing them parallel instead of in line and it wouldn't interfered one with the performance of the other, however I think that I gonna run out of DI fast if one is foul, hope to get good TDS readings

 

[ripped tide]

Knowledge is power. Now that you know that one may be fouled, it's up to you to decide to run it or replace it.

If you are burning through a DI cart once a month, due to the bad membrane- it might just be cheaper to replace it now(you'll end up replacing it later anyways) and save the money you'll be spending on DI resin.

 

[joseayes]

You right Dylan, thank you. Much better to replaced now, even knowing that it last almost 2+ years and I still have TDS readings of 0.02ppm . Anyway, I have a good deal on the Dow Filmtec $27.29 shipped, unless someone else found it cheaper (75gpd)
I will buy one, if any local can bid that price for me

 

[joseayes]

Ok so I finally hook it up everything, well, minus the Booster Pump.
Here I will post some pics to show off what I was pretending to do and the reason for me to post for help. I'm still waiting on the new membrane to arrives since the old one fouls, not a good thing for me trying to reused together with new DI cartridge and another new membrane, I better start all of them new. A shot of the membrane used too
Dow Filmtec Double 75gpd membrane, double flow restrictor fast flush, DI Bypass valve, PSI gauge, TDS digital meter, Single port RO only water.
Thanks for all the help.

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