Need Sump Ideas

[rhyerob]

If these posts don't make any sense I'm sorry I'm driving down the road talking to my phone

 

[sargent1981]

What program do you use to draw up the plans I would like to use that and post it on here for you guys to see some of my ideas.

 

[rhyerob]

Rhyerob;817932 wrote: Plus one on the above statement. Actually used a house plan app called Mark on call for my iPhone.

mark on call iPhone app

 

[sargent1981]

I just found one called Google Sketchup I am going to work with that and I will post some ideas later tonight.

 

[sargent1981]

Ok here is my idea the union tube I was thinking of possibly moving it lower but please tell me what you think.
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<legend> Attached files </legend>

 

[sargent1981]

The other thing I forgot to mention is my pump is adjust in the speed so I can get speed it up or slow it down if need be.

 

[rhyerob]

Protein skimmer?

I would put shutoff valves between the refugium and the display so you can dial in how you want your flow. You may even wish to do both. I would...you could find that flow rates were much faster than anticipated, allowing you to adjust to desired rate.

On the tank connections...If your PVC is 2+" (or as large as you can get, larger=better) you shouldn't have a problem with that. Again, a glass shop would be able to cut a hole that size. I would have bulkheads in hand before I cut the hole though so you can insure proper fit.

Return pump=overflow rate(generally, some variables can throw this off.) so if you properly gauge the supply to the refugium, you shouldn't need to back off on the return.

The way you have this designed the refugium fill rate MUST be slower than the other tank. There is no way around this other than say a minimum 3" PVC tank connector. In which case you would need to put the valve on the other side.

This all depends on the flow rate you want in your refugium.

 

[sargent1981]

The Protein skimmer is the first chamber on the sump side. I am planning a t-fitting on the over flow drain to drain to both the sump and refugium. I will have shut offs on both sides to regulate the flow to the pump. Since they are only 5 gallon tanks I was thinking a 1" bulkhead or 3/4" bulk head is the best I can do without cracking the glass. The side with the union tube on the refugium will have a piece of acrylic to keep the sand and live rock in that tank I will also cut holes in it to regulate the water level so the water does not have to fight to get over it. This way that chamber stays at a certain water level to flow through the union tube to the return pump.

 

[eagle9252]

is there anyway you can go with a bigger stand? i have cruched some numbers and cant upload atm but 10g tanks and i would assume 5g tanks are too thin to drill. the one i tried was tempered = boom.

if you can go with a larger stand then you could have enough room to expand later and use a larger tank now. why can you use a 20L? if you can sit the stand away from the way say 10" then you could add a shelf on the back and stick a 40 breeder in it.

just went back to see what size the dt was and its not listed but i dont think the 40b will work.

but if you can do a different stand then you can go taller. i think it would be cheaper in the long run to build a stand to fit a bigger sump then you wont have to worry about mickey mousing in some small tanks. if you cant change the stand then what about an rv potable water holder. it is milky white and you could cut some of the top out where as needed

 

[sargent1981]

The bottom of any aquarium is tempered glass and trying to drill any tempered glass is a big no no as it is designed to split. I just looked at the tank I have and it should drill fine as long as I take is slow. My main display tank is 60 gallons and I am not going through the headache of finding a another stand that will work. So no I have to work with I have and still build the tank I would like. But at the same time I want it to look good and profession not a bunch of plastic buckets sitting around my tank. I am using one five gallon now as my sump and refugium and it works just fine I just would like a bigger refugium that is the point of the second 5 gallon.

 

[camellia]

sargent1981;818284 wrote: The bottom of any aquarium is tempered glass and trying to drill any tempered glass is a big no no as it is designed to split. I just looked at the tank I have and it should drill fine as long as I take is slow. My main display tank is 60 gallons and I am not going through the headache of finding a another stand that will work. So no I have to work with I have and still build the tank I would like. But at the same time I want it to look good and profession not a bunch of plastic buckets sitting around my tank. I am using one five gallon now as my sump and refugium and it works just fine I just would like a bigger refugium that is the point of the second 5 gallon.

I'm tagging along on this. I'm setting up mine as well (considering) using 2 10's stacked but I have the height thanks to Grouper Therapy.
Btw,
Grouper also drilled the bottom of my DT, which was not tempered. This is unusual nowadays, but my tank is special hehe

 

[sargent1981]

The bottom of my 60 Gallon was tempered so I guess it is up to the manufacture. I just checked the two five gallon tanks on the manufactures website and they say they are not tempered.

 

[rhyerob]

One inch will cause overflow issues. That is one inch under LOW PRESSURE. Not the same as high pressure. Alot less water flows through. Needs to be bigger. Or more of them.

 

[rhyerob]

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Trust me. I've done this. 3/4 will not work. 1" might if you have 2 connections. 2-3" would certainly work.

 

[rhyerob]

Keep in mind my tanks are at seperate levels But have done it at the same level before. This is talk from experience not theory.

 

[rhyerob]

Rebuttal. Since the PVC is level the tanks might as well be at the same height in my picture above. The plumbing doesn't know the tanks are at seperate heights!