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Do 10k tanks grow more algae than a 20k? Or do nutrient rich grow more than nutrient poor? Both maybe?
New MH ballast?
- Thread starter Jaycen B.
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No doubt that color shift may make a bulb's color more favorable for algae growth. I also think that the appearance of algae in our system is just a manifestation of another problem ( excessive nutrients). If color shift was the cause of the algae then there would be nothing but algae on the reefs or in tanks using natural sunlight. I mean water also contributes to the algae growth as well but is not the cause.
Spectrum plays NO direct role for any type of photosynthesis!
All that matters is PAR (hence the name) - now I do agree that certain wavelengths in bulbs can emit higher PAR than others due to being closer to the wavelength for PAR.
But IF a spectrum change causes PAR to raise - that's completely unheard of.
Now - could it be that still within PAR there are different wavelengths that promote chlorophyll photosynthesis better than zooxanthella photosynthesis?
All that matters is PAR (hence the name) - now I do agree that certain wavelengths in bulbs can emit higher PAR than others due to being closer to the wavelength for PAR.
But IF a spectrum change causes PAR to raise - that's completely unheard of.
Now - could it be that still within PAR there are different wavelengths that promote chlorophyll photosynthesis better than zooxanthella photosynthesis?
I was about to type kinda that last statement asking why is it regardless of visible algae growth coral will change color (brown out) but still grow at a steady rate. I know trace elements (water changes) and slow acclimation to poorer light is the answer for continuous growth, but why the brown out?
I still believe the same nutrients with lower kelvin makes it easier for the algae to grow. If par decrease is the case then we could maybe go so far as say die off that maybe we cannot see is adding nutrients.
Now I have that "things that make you go hmmmm song stuck in my head
Thats actually the point I am getting at. Our lights throw out multiple wavelengths. Some are visible to our eye, some are in the radiation range etc. This is why there is the fancy little chart on the box. Spectrum and wavelength go hand in hand so saying spectrum has NO effect on growth is not true. As our bulbs age different spectrums/wavelengths burn out at different rates. Unfortunately for us its usually the spectrums/wavelenths in the radiation range that go first. This is why we get a drop in par without noticing a visual change but its still time to change the bulb. The k rating on the bulb is judged on it physical appearance and is pretty much up to the manufacturer, 20,000k bulbs can all be different. It really boils down to the materials used to create the arc. This is also why there is a correlation between K ratings and PAR. The material used to create that nice looking blue visible color may or may not be conductive to creating as many wavelengths in the radiation range etc. However another brand of bulb might use different material that's better at producing the wavelengths in the radiation range while still producing a nice blue color. This would also tell me that its possible that the material used to create the arc in a 10,000k bulb might put out different wavelengths in the radiation range hence creating a better spectrum for algae growth. I'm not a lighting expert but that's how I understand it.
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I have never used the Lumatek but they are from a reputable company. Like I mentioned earlier the ones you have will fire any bulb that I am aware of but the electronic will usually not overdrive the bulbs either. I was unaware of the rather speedy degradation of Radium bulbs being run on electronic ballast. That being said I am not sure what ballast you could use to fire them at the 360 watt goal unless it was a dim able electronic ballast.
For some good light punch in a 30" deep tank think about luminbright large or mini. I run two large pendants and light punch and spread are great. I've got SPS (M. Undata) at the bottom of a 24" tank that is growing and coloring very well.
I would imagine it's a combination of the two, spectrum shift and nutrients. I've got a very low nutrient system and 20K lighting. Algae in my system isn't getting allot so when my bulbs begin so shift i then notice more algae on my glass.....kinda like when you notice your GFO needing to be changed or carbon.
I have really noticed this with VHO bulbs driven by Icecap ballasts. If you run a VHO for 9+ months you'll notice algae growth....change the bulb and it will go away in a few days/to a week.
I would imagine it's a combination of the two, spectrum shift and nutrients. I've got a very low nutrient system and 20K lighting. Algae in my system isn't getting allot so when my bulbs begin so shift i then notice more algae on my glass.....kinda like when you notice your GFO needing to be changed or carbon.
I have really noticed this with VHO bulbs driven by Icecap ballasts. If you run a VHO for 9+ months you'll notice algae growth....change the bulb and it will go away in a few days/to a week.
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Ushio's will also run on m59 ballast. Ushio 250 and 400 watt bulbs are probe start. I am using 250 watt on m58. This is pointless since you have m135 and you can run what ever you wish.
My tank is 30" and I have the LME reflectors and run a Blue Wave 7 ballast (monster!!)
I love the combo of the 2.. Esp the ballast.. Its heavy as a tank but stays cool all the time, quiet (yes, I have heard a few loud ballast)..
I love the combo of the 2.. Esp the ballast.. Its heavy as a tank but stays cool all the time, quiet (yes, I have heard a few loud ballast)..