New tank closed loop idea

[sagent3000]

okay i am ready for a new tank.. it is time and i have outgrown the 75. glass cages has a 180 thats 72 x 24 x 25 Tall for $550. i am not going to have them drill anything but drill it according to my picture. tell me what you guys think.

http://www.livingreefs.com/gallery/files/3/1/4/closedloop_455169.JPG" alt="" />

1. the red dots are going to the sump and will be 1" the blue is the return from the sump and they are both 1" and will be pointed downward at about 60 degrees

2. the light blue dots are going to two mag 12 that will alternated every 10 minutes and will have a 1" drain out with 1" returns that come back to the brown dots that will have two arms that sprout off

3. the pink dot will be attached to a mag 12 that will always be on and be come out through the green bar at the top with the lines pointing down

 

[jmaneyapanda]

Isd this the bottom or back pane?

 

[sagent3000]

the back pane

 

[george]

I would put the returns above the overflows to avoid siphoning back through the returns as much as possible and allow a siphon breaking mechanism to be used on the returns.

 

[jmaneyapanda]

I am not understanding completely, are the drains a closed loop, or drain to the sump?

BTW, research glascages carefully. There is a lot of "info" on them.

 

[sagent3000]

okay here is a new idea.

the red comes out the tank and goes to the sump and is 1.5" and the blue is a return from the sump 1.5" each.

the pink is 1.5" and goes to a ReefFlo Barracuda pump that pumps out 4300gph and will be attached to an oceans motion 4 way oscillating device

the green will all be 1.5" return from the barracuda

 

[jmaneyapanda]

sagent3000;178840 wrote: okay here is a new idea.

the red comes out the tank and goes to the sump and is 1.5" and the blue is a return from the sump 1.5" each.

the pink is 1.5" and goes to a ReefFlo Barracuda pump that pumps out 4300gph and will be attached to an oceans motion 4 way oscillating device

the green will all be 1.5" return from the barracuda

http://www.livingreefs.com/gallery/files/3/1/4/closedloop2.JPG" alt="" />[/QUOTE]

I say split the green dots further apart, and move the intake for the closed loop closer to the floor. There is no worries of drainage for a closed loop, so imagine where the wtare flow will be the least, or where it can be most chaotic, and place the nholes there.

 

[mojo]

jmaneyapanda;178867 wrote: I say split the green dots further apart, and move the intake for the closed loop closer to the floor. There is no worries of drainage for a closed loop, so imagine where the wtare flow will be the least, or where it can be most chaotic, and place the nholes there.

What he said, except you want it to be the "least" chaotic - you don't want to have to worry about air getting in that CL line...

 

[sagent3000]

mojo;178888 wrote: What he said, except you want it to be the "least" chaotic - you don't want to have to worry about air getting in that CL line...

so i should put the pink dot down towards the bottom?

 

[roland jacques]

That many holes on the back wall of a glass tank scare me!

The center, top, of the front and back pane, is normally the highest stress points of a tank full of water. Now add the stress 1.5 pvc full of water hanging on it... so i would sugest to minamize any holes in the top center area. Sometime when drilling the holes too close together can cause cracks between holes. ( when unsupported by a overspill box...)

Is this a reef or a fish only? Glass cages tanks normally come with a wide glass center top silliconed there. is that what you want? Or are they selling euro brased tanks for that price?

Why dont you want them to drill it? it not common but tanks to sometimes brake while drilling.

Not trying to scare you (maybe just a little) just sharing my oppinion

 

[jetchris]

I think the amount of holes will be ok, here's what i would do. Make the red dots 1.5" drains to the sump, like you said. Have a Mag 12 for your return and split it into 2 each 3/4" returns and put an eductor on each return. You will need 2 each 1.5" drains with grills for your closed loop suction. If you just have one anything that swims by or touches it will become stuck. Stick with the reeflo pump and dart. I would use 6" 1/2" outputs for your returns back into your tank. So in the back pane you will have a total of 2 sump drains ,2 sump returns, 2 CL drains, and 6 CL returns for a total of 12 drilled holes. Make sure you use flex tubing for all your plumbing.
Here is a link for a CL manifold http://www.flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?product=PVC-Manifolds-Distributors">http://www.flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?product=PVC-Manifolds-Distributors</a>

Here is a link to my CL and pics of what the manifold looks likehttp://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10425&page=4&highlight=coors

The tank crack because i started off using hard plumbing and put to much stress on the glass, once i switched to flex pvc , it worked like a charm plus easier to use and better flow because of less bends.

 

[wbholwell]

I gotta say I'm with Roland on this one. I would never have the balls to put that many holes in one pane of glass.

Could you have a tank built with that particular pane made of thicker glass?

 

[sagent3000]

wbholwell;178990 wrote: I gotta say I'm with Roland on this one. I would never have the balls to put that many holes in one pane of glass.

Could you have a tank built with that particular pane made of thicker glass?

i have thought of that. i have gotten pretty good at using acrylic and weld on, i might just do it that way and get .5" thick acrylic and make my own tank.

i am going to try the DIY live rock thing but i am so hesitant. if someone can tell me for sure that it works and the ingredients i will give it a try