New to saltwater and looking for equipment suggestions.

[00Dan]

Hello all,

I recently purchased a Nuvo 40 setup and have it filled and running right now. I’m looking forward to getting it fully cycled and ready to go (planning on approximately six weeks; its a used setup that was broken down for velvet so playing it safe with the fallow period).

I still am looking for an ATO, an RO/DI unit, and a way to mount my Hydra 26, hopefully without breaking the bank in any case. A couple other items I’m looking at but can defer for now would be a heater controller and perhaps a controller or perhaps a timer specification for my Hydor Koralia (1350 GPH model). Suggestions are welcome!

 

[ZapataInc]

Hey welcome to ARC and to the Hobby! I think I know this very tank very well. I believe it was my old tank that I sold to another member. The Hydra 26 is a great light for this tank.

The official AI single mounting are works really well for this tank.
https://www.saltwateraquarium.com/s...-_JMBsKog6anLy5cv-OSjFio7YCQuprRoCzUUQAvD_BwE

As far as ATO i used this and it worked perfectly.
https://www.amazon.com/XP-Aqua-Dual...sr_1_3?keywords=XP+Aqua&qid=1578319637&sr=8-3

As far as heater control you can go with an InkBird.
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-...sr_1_6?keywords=inkbird&qid=1578319749&sr=8-6

I also used an IceCap 1K gyre for this tank and it was perfect for it. Gave plenty of flow and I liked that i was able to program different wave patterns. They just came out with a new version though. Its 2K with Wifi controls. You can probably find a used 1K.
Here is a link to the new 2K with the wifi controller.
https://www.saltwateraquarium.com/icecap-2k-gyre-pump-w-dual-wifi-controller-icecap/

There are always deals on used RODI systems on here. Or you cant go wrong with a BRS RODI unit.

 

[Adam]

Hi Dan and welcome to the club.

Everything Zap said above is spot on. Let us know if when you have more questions.

 

[lmm1967]

I would consider prioritizing a temp monitor / heater controller.

My completely unscientific guessing algorithm tells me heater malfunction is very near the top of the list for reasons tanks "crash". ATO mess-ups / failures are up there as well.

 

[wake125122]

I agree with everything on the recommend equipment except for the ATO. I would do the "Tunze OSMOLATOR UNIVERSAL 3155 AUTO TOP OFF". Double check to see if that would fit (pretty sure it will but not 100%) if not use the step down version of this. It also has the pump and all included so one less thing to worry about.

Osmolator Universal 3155 Auto Top Off

NEW VERSION AVAILABLE: Tunze Osmolator 3 ATO System Bulk Reef Supply tried many different water level switches and auto top off solutions before giving the Tunze 3155 Osmolater Universal Auto Top Off BRS Recommended status. Despite its higher price this is by far our favorite solution...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

 

[00Dan]

Hey welcome to ARC and to the Hobby! I think I know this very tank very well. I believe it was my old tank that I sold to another member. The Hydra 26 is a great light for this tank.

The official AI single mounting are works really well for this tank.
https://www.saltwateraquarium.com/s...-_JMBsKog6anLy5cv-OSjFio7YCQuprRoCzUUQAvD_BwE

As far as ATO i used this and it worked perfectly.
https://www.amazon.com/XP-Aqua-Dual...sr_1_3?keywords=XP+Aqua&qid=1578319637&sr=8-3

As far as heater control you can go with an InkBird.
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-...sr_1_6?keywords=inkbird&qid=1578319749&sr=8-6

I also used an IceCap 1K gyre for this tank and it was perfect for it. Gave plenty of flow and I liked that i was able to program different wave patterns. They just came out with a new version though. Its 2K with Wifi controls. You can probably find a used 1K.
Here is a link to the new 2K with the wifi controller.
https://www.saltwateraquarium.com/icecap-2k-gyre-pump-w-dual-wifi-controller-icecap/

There are always deals on used RODI systems on here. Or you cant go wrong with a BRS RODI unit.

This is indeed your old tank! Thanks for all the advice. I’ve been looking at the InkBird on Amazon and it is surprisingly affordable relative to other items in this hobby. I’ve heard there is a difference in the probes between the Green and Blue controller versions, any input?

I’ll do some research on the ATO options, it appears there are some differing opinions on which way to go. I’ve heard good things about the Tunze Osmolator but I’d prefer to spend less than $200 on it; I’ll prowl the used market to see what pops up in any case.

 

[ZapataInc]

This is indeed your old tank! Thanks for all the advice. I’ve been looking at the InkBird on Amazon and it is surprisingly affordable relative to other items in this hobby. I’ve heard there is a difference in the probes between the Green and Blue controller versions, any input?

I’ll do some research on the ATO options, it appears there are some differing opinions on which way to go. I’ve heard good things about the Tunze Osmolator but I’d prefer to spend less than $200 on it; I’ll prowl the used market to see what pops up in any case.

i believe for the inkbirds there is one that does just heating and the one that i linked to does both heating and cooling.

As far as the Tunze...they do have a nano version.
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/tunz...YqXj9ueKuILNvwc_hTtxUxxnhdf2csahoC3DgQAvD_BwE

I agree with everything on the recommend equipment except for the ATO. I would do the "Tunze OSMOLATOR UNIVERSAL 3155 AUTO TOP OFF". Double check to see if that would fit (pretty sure it will but not 100%) if not use the step down version of this. It also has the pump and all included so one less thing to worry about.

Osmolator Universal 3155 Auto Top Off

NEW VERSION AVAILABLE: Tunze Osmolator 3 ATO System Bulk Reef Supply tried many different water level switches and auto top off solutions before giving the Tunze 3155 Osmolater Universal Auto Top Off BRS Recommended status. Despite its higher price this is by far our favorite solution...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

The ATO i suggested comes with everything. But to each is own.

 

[wake125122]

This is indeed your old tank! Thanks for all the advice. I’ve been looking at the InkBird on Amazon and it is surprisingly affordable relative to other items in this hobby. I’ve heard there is a difference in the probes between the Green and Blue controller versions, any input?

I’ll do some research on the ATO options, it appears there are some differing opinions on which way to go. I’ve heard good things about the Tunze Osmolator but I’d prefer to spend less than $200 on it; I’ll prowl the used market to see what pops up in any case.

Reef2reef is a great place to search.

 

[ActiveAngel]

#1) I agree, get a decent Heater. Lots of good advice on this thread so far. I’ve had good luck with Finnex titanium heaters.

#2) Get a refractometer. Digital refracts are good but cost $90-120. Traditional Refractometers will cost $15-25 and will be the best and cheapest investment. All brands of these traditional ones are about equal. Generally, you just want the scale to display specific gravity.

Otherwise, keep on track and be patient; You’re doing well. Koralia pumps are cheap and (when clean) have a very strong current... but you’ll probably be looking to upgrade those in a year or so.

RODIs are recommended. Not necessary. But they make life a million times easier.

ATOs are also recommended but not necessary. Both JBJ and Neptune apex make nice standalone ATOs with float switches. I’d choose the Neptune of those two. However, if you want a good and cheap fix with the plan to upgrade later, a regular $10-15 float valve and a bucket or plastic tub can be an excellent ATO.

 

[ActiveAngel]

Getting into this hobby that be expensive initially; there are a handful of expensive necessities and nearly-necessities. You’re doing well in asking this equipment advice in the beginning.

This hobby can also be expensive later... but that’s largely buying things we want (like hot new corals), not what we need.

 

[00Dan]

Reef2reef is a great place to search.

I’m already on Reef2Reef. With the information there and here I have a lot of reading to do.

#1) I agree, get a decent Heater. Lots of good advice on this thread so far. I’ve had good luck with Finnex titanium heaters.

#2) Get a refractometer. Digital refracts are good but cost $90-120. Traditional Refractometers will cost $15-25 and will be the best and cheapest investment. All brands of these traditional ones are about equal. Generally, you just want the scale to display specific gravity.

Otherwise, keep on track and be patient; You’re doing well. Koralia pumps are cheap and (when clean) have a very strong current... but you’ll probably be looking to upgrade those in a year or so.

RODIs are recommended. Not necessary. But they make life a million times easier.

ATOs are also recommended but not necessary. Both JBJ and Neptune apex make nice standalone ATOs with float switches. I’d choose the Neptune of those two. However, if you want a good and cheap fix with the plan to upgrade later, a regular $10-15 float valve and a bucket or plastic tub can be an excellent ATO.

I’m using a 100W Eheim right now. I have it on the internal thermostat for now since the tank is empty but I expect to have an InkBird in the mail shortly. I did purchase the Petco refractometer; hopefully its not junk.

Getting into this hobby that be expensive initially; there are a handful of expensive necessities and nearly-necessities. You’re doing well in asking this equipment advice in the beginning.

This hobby can also be expensive later... but that’s largely buying things we want (like hot new corals), not what we need.

I’m seeing that! But I did expect this going in, with the tank empty for the next several weeks I have the ability to spread out necessary purchases so definitely some money to be saved on the used market.

 

[wake125122]

Tip on the refro make sure you calibrate it often! I typically do a cal about ever 2 or 3 uses.

 

[00Dan]

A follow up: I’ve had water in the tank for almost a week now. I purchased a bottle of Dr. Tim’s and some ammonia to get my dry rock cycle going. I also found one of the AI arms. An InkBird controller is in the mail from Amazon and I have an agreement to purchase an ATO and RODI unit from another member here, hopefully picking up this week.

With all this in mind is there anything I should be seeding a new setup with besides beneficial bacteria? I ask from the perspective of tank establishment and stability - I’ve heard the tank needs to be running for X amount of time to achieve stability for certain livestock that goes beyond just having completed the nitrogen cycle. What parameters does this entail? From a stability perspective with an auto top off and temperature controller what’s left?

A second question: are there any LFS in the area that have a reputation for good livestock management or quarantine procedures? I don’t have a separate QT setup at this time and want to know if smart livestock selections locally and maybe a dip can minimize my risk.

 

[tonytran509]

A follow up: I’ve had water in the tank for almost a week now. I purchased a bottle of Dr. Tim’s and some ammonia to get my dry rock cycle going. I also found one of the AI arms. An InkBird controller is in the mail from Amazon and I have an agreement to purchase an ATO and RODI unit from another member here, hopefully picking up this week.

With all this in mind is there anything I should be seeding a new setup with besides beneficial bacteria? I ask from the perspective of tank establishment and stability - I’ve heard the tank needs to be running for X amount of time to achieve stability for certain livestock that goes beyond just having completed the nitrogen cycle. What parameters does this entail? From a stability perspective with an auto top off and temperature controller what’s left?

A second question: are there any LFS in the area that have a reputation for good livestock management or quarantine procedures? I don’t have a separate QT setup at this time and want to know if smart livestock selections locally and maybe a dip can minimize my risk.

so im fairly new also... no matter what dip... ive seen a lot of things come off these corals... sometimes if its bad enough ill run them through a second dip just to make sure... and for livestock qt... i had to learn my lesson this past week....