Not feeling guilty

Schwaggs;104203 wrote: Raj,

On the waste water output from my RO membrane, there is a needle valve. This is the way it came (it is many years old). Modern day units typically have a non-adjustable flow restictor on the output. If yours is not adjustable, you could add a needle valve to your waste water outlet and tune the waste water flow to be similar to the clean water flow...

Wow- that's a really good idea. And I happen to have a needle valve with JG fittings on it (available from US Plastics).....
 
hmm, I should be able to pick one up from HD; that's brilliant!
 
Schwaggs;104203 wrote: Raj,

On the waste water output from my RO membrane, there is a needle valve. This is the way it came (it is many years old). Modern day units typically have a non-adjustable flow restictor on the output. If yours is not adjustable, you could add a needle valve to your waste water outlet and tune the waste water flow to be similar to the clean water flow...

wouldnt that be restricting flow from your RO unit causing back pressure? I dont know if that would be good for the membrain....then again i could be wrong, I have no clue how the whole deal works, lol. If it works tho, cool!
 
Just a guess but slowing down the waste water on the outflow should either slow down the total amount of water entering the system or increase the amount going out. If it slows what is coming in, no big deal I would think unless it raises pressure to some absurd amount. If it increases the amount of water making it through the system it may be forcing water through the filters too fast or with too much pressure. Hmmm... anyone a RO/DI expert?
 
hmmm perhaps it wouldnt have any effect, cuz if you stop the good water, the system shuts off....then again thats due to the back pressure thingy thats on there......but the waste water doesnt have one of those.....so if you stop it or slow it there is no waste water or less coming out meaning the filters will either A) be clogged with pressure thus producing water faster which might not be better or B) just take longer for water to be made. Thats my thinking....hmmm looks like a question for the filter guys.
 
interesting. I would think that the pressure that most of us are currently pushing is hardly sufficient; the filters can probably not only handle more, but prefer more.

As to the quality of water, the tds meter should answer that. I suppose the best way to check would be to bypass the DI stage and test before and after the mod.
 
not sure what they are supposed to be run at. Not sure what the pressure in the house is either. I just remember reading something somewhere that suggested a bosster pump and such. Also, it is not supposed to be tapped with cold water.
 
booster pumps are only for people with low water pressure. Not the correct pressure will ruine your membraine as would too much I'd imagine.
 
The max pressure that a typical RO membranes can handle is 125 PSI, well above the typical household water pressure.

IME, running the waste at 1:1 to clean water has zero negative effect on the lifespan of the membrane. I have been using a Kent Hi-S 35 GPD this way producing 5-20 gallons per week for around 6 years now. The RO output water currently runs about 2 ppm TDS. Not bad! :)
 
I thought that 40 psi was a minimum rating. I had thought that it can handle about 100 psi. !25 is probably right then.

2 ppm over 6 years? I'll take that! And your tank is beautiful too!
 
my wife accidentally parked the car on top of the waste water outlet one time while I was making RO water and sure enough when I tested the TDS from all that water that was made it was at about 33 ppm.

I made some more water after I figured out that she had done that and the TDS got back down to 2ppm.....
 
Restricting the output will increase the internal pressure and force more water through the membrane. Doing this could compromise the quality of the effluent water. The main difference between 65/75/100GPD units is the length of the tube section of the flow restrictor (the tiny piece stuck inside of the tube on your waste line). If using a needle valve, I would assume that you can remove the restrictor all together.
Ideal pressure at the membrane is ~80-90psi (as Schwaggs mentioned, the typical max a membrane can handle is 125psi). It is not recommended that you push over 100psi.
I believe 40psi is the minimum.
The needle valve method should really only be used for small increases in pressure... if you need to increase by a large amount, a booster pump should probably be used.
 
Skriz;104664 wrote: 2 ppm over 6 years? I'll take that! And your tank is beautiful too!

Thanks for the kind words! I can't believe the RO membrane has lasted this long either :) The first generic one I had only lasted a couple years...
 
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