Opening a load bearing wall for tank line pass thru.

[acroholic]

Not sure if this should go in Reef Related, DIY or the Lounge. Mods, move if it is needed.

This is in relation to my monster tank I just got. Tank equipment is going behind the tank, behind a load bearing wall. 2x4 studs on this wall are 12" on center. Drywall on the finished side and open studs on unfinished side.

I think I may have to remove one section of stud to allow easy passage of the PVC pipework from the overflow to the sump and back. Looking to maybe frame a 20" length x 12' wide opening.

Any ideas as to header thickness, king stud, jack stud width, etc? And would I need to support the floor above? I am only going to weaken one stud, so I didn't know what was necessary.

Architectural quality 4th grade drawing below!!
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[legalreefer]

Im not savy with these kinda demolitions, but why couldn't you do 2 2x6's on the top and bottom of what you cut out, similar to a window? I cant imagine it would hurt the structural integrity too much.

 

[rdnelson]

Are you sure it is load bearing? Most load bearing walls are 2" x 6". Of course since yours is a ranch it is conceavable. Either way, I would put a header with king studs to support it. 2" x 4" set on edge and doubled up should be sufficient for the top header. Then nail a 2" x 4" next to the left and right stud to support the bottom of the header. The lower one can be a 2" x 4" run flat with 2" x 4" studs supporting it. There will be little to no weight on the low one.

 

[oz]

you need a header and support studs for load bearing wall. Google how to install a door or window in load bearing wall. easy diy for that small opening.

 

[enderg60]

You should be more then fine, but the cross beams you are adding I would do by tripling up some 2x4's (as in use 3 of them stacked for the top and bottom)

but out of curiosity, if its just to pass pipes through, why not just leave the 2x4 there and route the pipes around it?

 

[matthew660]

I would do 2 2x6s or 2x8s with 1/2 inch ply between them for the header to make up the 3 1/2 inch stud thickness. Then a jack stud on each end of the header. If you have any questions feel free to pm me.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

 

[acroholic]

EnderG60;779203 wrote: You should be more then fine, but the cross beams you are adding I would do by tripling up some 2x4's (as in use 3 of them stacked for the top and bottom)

but out of curiosity, if its just to pass pipes through, why not just leave the 2x4 there and route the pipes around it?

I'm gonna have to look at the 2" bulkhead drains before I decide to open the wall up. What I have done in the past is install one of those drywall access panels that an be painted the wall color if you ever stop using them. I should probably wait until the sump is done and decide how it will be placed before I make holes. I might be able to do it between the studs with some ultra flex PVC. Sump inlet drains are 1.5". so I will probably reduce the 2" bulks down to 1.5" from the overflow. A small opening cutting thru one of the studs would just make it easier, but it probably would be doable without cutting. I'm just hoping for the most direct route to the sump with the fewest # of 90 degree bends.

 

[eagle9252]

it can be done as I did mine.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2069391">http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2069391</a>


i will read more and answer some shortly

 

[grouper therapy]

double 2x10 header with single jack on both sides meets code.Is it needed probably not, unless there is a roof brace point load in the attic in that spot. Temp a dead man on the nearest floor joist and put the header in according to code. If you think about it it is senseless not to stay with code.

Edit:

rdnelson99;779201 wrote: Are you sure it is load bearing? Most load bearing walls are 2" x 6". Of course since yours is a ranch it is conceavable. Either way, I would put a header with king studs to support it. 2" x 4" set on edge and doubled up should be sufficient for the top header. Then nail a 2" x 4" next to the left and right stud to support the bottom of the header. The lower one can be a 2" x 4" run flat with 2" x 4" studs supporting it. There will be little to no weight on the low one.

At one time 2x4 12" oc was cheaper than 2x6 16" oc

Edit: I can swing by tomorrow after 3 and throw one in for you if you like. Cost you one of those diet cokes.

 

[grouper therapy]

I can swing by tomorrow after 3 and throw one in for you if you like. Cost you one of those diet cokes.

 

[eagle9252]

Now that i have read it. You are only wanting to go only 24"? with 12&#8221;oc it will be less than 24&#8221; so you will need to take 2 studs out. You need a jack stud for every stud removed. ½ on one side and ½ on the other. You could get away with a 2x6 but you have plenty of room and I would do a 2x10 if it were me just because.

If it was a larger hole I would say that you would need to support the ceiling and run support legs to the floor as I did when I removed 8 feet of wall but with yours you should be fine without it. Mark the studs above it and measure it. Then remeasure afterwards to make sure it did not sag.

 

[jbadd99]

rdnelson99;779201 wrote: Are you sure it is load bearing? Most load bearing walls are 2" x 6". Of course since yours is a ranch it is conceavable. Either way, I would put a header with king studs to support it. 2" x 4" set on edge and doubled up should be sufficient for the top header. Then nail a 2" x 4" next to the left and right stud to support the bottom of the header. The lower one can be a 2" x 4" run flat with 2" x 4" studs supporting it. There will be little to no weight on the low one.

I'm sticking with Rich on this one and it looks very similar to something I did in my basement. Since it's such a small section, it shouldn't signficantly effect the integrity.

 

[rdnelson]

While I believe my idea would be sufficiant for practical purposes, I most definately would follow Grouper's suggestion over my own. LOL He is absolutely correct about doing it to code. Not only does it give you the piece of mind but, one day you may put the house up for sale. If the prospective buyer hires an inspector and he idicates it was not done to code you could have a big mess on your hands. What Grouper suggests would only be pennies more and is very cheap insurance in my mind.

 

[acroholic]

eagle9252;779225 wrote: it can be done as I did mine.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2069391">http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2069391</a>


i will read more and answer some shortly[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the link. Nice to see some pics.

Edit: [QUOTE=][B]jbadd99;779255 wrote:[/B] I'm sticking with Rich on this one and it looks very similar to something I did in my basement. Since it's such a small section, it shouldn't signficantly effect the integrity.[/QUOTE]

The wall definitely is load bearing. Doesn't seem like a quick cut and bang bang with a hammer would hurt, but I probably would use a proper header if I do cut through the studs, just to be sure.

Edit: [QUOTE=][B]eagle9252;779242 wrote:[/B] Now that i have read it. You are only wanting to go only 24"? with 12”oc it will be less than 24” so you will need to take 2 studs out. You need a jack stud for every stud removed. ½ on one side and ½ on the other. You could get away with a 2x6 but you have plenty of room and I would do a 2x10 if it were me just because.

If it was a larger hole I would say that you would need to support the ceiling and run support legs to the floor as I did when I removed 8 feet of wall but with yours you should be fine without it. Mark the studs above it and measure it. Then remeasure afterwards to make sure it did not sag.[/QUOTE]

I don't have to have a 24" opening. I would be fine with it being 20" or so. It looks like one of the overflow bulks is right in front of the stud I was thinking of cutting off. Just hoping to avoid hard plumbing around it. Best scenario would be straight through the wall and to the sump. I'm not totally OCD, but I do like some order and symmetry in my reef tank plumbing!:D

Edit: [QUOTE=][B]grouper therapy;779230 wrote:[/B] I can swing by tomorrow after 3 and throw one in for you if you like. Cost you one of those diet cokes.[/QUOTE]

I really appreciate it Dave. I haven't framed an opening like this yet, so I'd probably do it myself. But if you want to come by and see the tank, just give me a buzz tomorrow. Still got that Diet Coke for you!

Edit: [QUOTE=][B]rdnelson99;779262 wrote:[/B] While I believe my idea would be sufficiant for practical purposes, I most definately would follow Grouper's suggestion over my own. LOL He is absolutely correct about doing it to code. Not only does it give you the piece of mind but, one day you may put the house up for sale. If the prospective buyer hires an inspector and he idicates it was not done to code you could have a big mess on your hands. What Grouper suggests would only be pennies more and is very cheap insurance in my mind.[/QUOTE]

I agree.

 

[spike]

Ok so what else is in that diet coke?

 

[rdnelson]

Spike;779272 wrote: Ok so what else is in that diet coke?

Just refer back to your screen name. LOL

 

[billsfan]

Every window or door I ever saw framed in was with two 2x8 on there side on top of the inside 2x4 frames. But I'm just an electrician.

 

[swfk44]

Grouper has the correct answer, code complient, over kill yes, but it's okay to let your shingles flop over with no dripedge. :shades:

 

[grouper therapy]

billsfan;779294 wrote: Every window or door I ever saw framed in was with two 2x8 on there side on top of the inside 2x4 frames. But I'm just an electrician.

I believe those were 2x10"s if not it did not meet code.

 

[billsfan]

Like I said I'm a electrian not a framer. 2x10's it is then.