Phosphate problem

Ok water change to take place tomorrow. I did however manage to get the kole tang yellow tang and gold stripe damsel/chromis out.
 
Going back to what someone else said. Things are out of whack no doubt. However don't panic just do some water changes, lighten bio load,test, water change, test. Not sure how your Mag got that high but nothing's dead right. Oh yea did I mention water change and test. Make it a point to test every week and things can't run away from you like they have. good luck buddy
 
Eater change finished this morning. I will be running another rounds of tests when I get home from work this evening. However my sps already looks happier
 
Sorry for the delayed results. Anyways mag is 1600, calcium is 510 and alk is 8.4

Which way better than before the waterchange but any suggestions on further maintenance
 
the key is not to overreact. Do multiple small water changes throughout the next week or so until your parameters are in check
 
Those results just need a little tweak more than anything. Like demifelix said, small multiple water changes and you will be set.
 
Thank for the shoulder guys. When I saw my birds of paradise go white I flipped. Then test and I panicked. But yall were certainly there to catch this falling reefer. Lol
 
Tanks4life;994062 wrote: Sorry for the delayed results. Anyways mag is 1600, calcium is 510 and alk is 8.4

Which way better than before the waterchange but any suggestions on further maintenance

Transfer everything to a larger tank; if not possibe, lighten the bioload, and do not overfeed the livestock.

Wannabee

P.S. Maintain good husbandry.
 
Stop dosing. Keep your carbon and Phosguard going, and let the tank settle. Every time you do a water change, you hit the 'reset' button on the tank finding its own equilibrium.

What salt mix are you using? If you only dosed MG once, you should not have had that crazy high level.

I was going to question the ammonia reading but if you put in a rock that was out of the water for a day and had Zoas and stuff on it, there may have been some die-off. If you are using an API test kit, I'd still question that ammonia reading, but I'd recommend a dose of Prime, just in case - if it is positive, Prime will bind ammonia (and nitrite that will come next) and render them less toxic.

You are definitely over-stocked, and the heavy feeding that carnivores need, will lend to the phosphate issue, but that's the least of your problems at the moment.

I'd suggest rehoming some fish, keep an eye on ammonia, nitrite and nitrate as well as pH in the short term, don't tinker with it and let it settle. The more you mess with CA, Alk, MG, the more it's going to teeter totter. Let it be. Once it has settled out (about 3 weeks), then if you need to dial it in a bit, you can do that carefully and gradually.

Jenn
 
Ok quick update. I've have removed the yellow tang, kole tang, behns damsel, and coral cat. I lost all my orange cap. Monti, my birds of paradise, and most of my digitata. However the digitata has stopped bleaching.

I did a water change last week and another one scheduled here in a minute. But I wanted to share the readings from before this change. Magnesium is at 1,300 calcium is at 430, and my alk is at 11. Which is way better. My phosphates seem to be staying at 2 however. BTW I'm using red sea for the first 3 and hagen or nutrafin for the phos.

I did however add some Dragon's Breath macro. This should help remove phosphates right? And I am going to add more macro to my fuge. Currently I have a small handful of cheato and a small handful of calupera.
 
Tanks4life;994640 wrote:

I did however add some Dragon's Breath macro. This should help remove phosphates right? And I am going to add more macro to my fuge. Currently I have a small handful of cheato and a small handful of calupera.

It's a slow grower. I wouldn't count on it making a noticeable difference.
 
Ok well I'm going to try to revamp my fuge some and add more macro. I've been reading on the different types to help with nitrates and phosphates
 
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