Planning 48x48x30 Need input!!

kayakatl

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For those of you that don't know me, my wife and I have been members of ARC for the past several years however have been inactive on the boards for a year or so.

Background: Our adventure started 3-4 years ago with a 55 in an apartment. From there we bought our house, transfered the 55 and had it up about a year. Last year We set up a 92 corner and loved the set up. In June we got married and and while we were on our honeymoon in Sept-Oct. our "top off crew" spilled some makeup water on the floor and left it. In typical penny pinching fashion the top layer of our subfloor happened to be particle board. :bash2: We came home to a 2'x2'x4" high mound infront of the 92 corner. While we were discussing options for reflooring we lost 2 clowns and were forced to put our tang and Mag. Foxface in QT. Perfect time to dismantle the 92, transfer rock, inverts and coral to a 55 in the basement and tear out the brilliant particle board subfloor.

So, like so many before us faced with these circumstances we have decided we want to go bigger. We are planning to have a custom 48"x48"x30" cube custom built with a center overflow inspired by the column tank at Creation in Woodstock. I will also be setting up a remote sump. The fish room is the only room at the purgatory altitude in our split level house. It kind of functions as a foyer and a landing between upstairs and the basement, so the sump will be 1/2 level below the tank and about 9 feet away linearly. I might also add that the living room has a 5x5 opening to look out into the fish room, so the idea of the center over flow is to place the tank in the center of the room and allow us to view the tank from a half level above it.

I will start with what I had in mind, please feel free to share any input you may have on any of these items.

Tank placement: Center of the room. I want the top of the tank around the 6' mark. I know this is high, and I know it will make any maintenance a PITA, but I am ok with this for the sake of not having to bend over, plus it gives us good viewing from the dining room and living room.

Plumbing: 2 x 1.5" drains, a 1" return, and a 1" waterchange tube. Can I combine these 2 drains for running to the sump room, or should I leave them separate all the way to the sump?

Circulation: I would like to do a closed loop on this tank as I do not want any wires on the outside of the tank. The final volume will be 299 gal. I know opinions vary here, but what should my turnover rate be of the CL system? 30x? Based on this what is a good pump to use for this purpose? I want it to be a quiet pump if it will be under the tank. I would love to run the CL to the sump room, however that is just more 90's, and runs of PVC. Is running a CL pump remotely even viable? I would also plan on using 1" SCWD devices to alternate current in the tank. How would you plumb the input and return for the CL? Do I put the intake inside or outside of the overflow? How many and what size returns should I use?

Lighting: Another tricky one. Currently have a ceiling fan above where the tank will go, and would rather not change that set up. I do not want wire on the outside of the tank either and of coarse this will be in the center of the room. My idea would be to run power up through the center of the tank using a buikhead and PVC to make a passage through the center of the tank for an umbrella like structure to support light fixtures and run my power through. Of coarse this structure would be anchored to the floor. I want to run and LED setup, but would most likely do a DIY setup using Steves Leds, or simular. I am planning on a Reef Angel controller, so what ever I build would need to be able to interface. Honestly that build is a whole thread in and of itself, but I would still like input. Before anyone says Radion, as much as I would love to drop $4k in lights, it is not going to happen. :yes:

Return pump: Any suggestions? I am looking at about 9' linear and 11' vertical with some angles involved so lets call it 13'-15' head pressure.

Sump: I am open to suggestions, however I was thinking of a 150 Gal stock tank with an in sump skimmer. Any reactors, dosing, etc would come off of this on smaller pumps.

That is about all I can think of at the moment. I am sure there are many many things I have not yet thought of so please bring to my attention anything that I may have missed! :fish:
 
30 inches will be hard to reach the bottom of, unless you're an ape
 
Your closed loop will suffer very little head loss due to the friction of the fittings and pipe especially if you oversize, There is no vertical head loss on a closed loop.
Reeflo darts make excellent closed loop pumps.
 
I would do t5 lights or halides, LEDs will have no par at the bottom of your tank. I do love the creation tank myself so goodluck
 
Personally I'd go MH all the way or primarily MH but supplementing LED or T5 for color only. Few lights will get that deep and still have decent par. T5's get pricey to replace annually too.

Edit: plumbing of the CL. do NOT plumb it from the overflow. Plumb it from the DT. Several inches (say like 6") below the water line. A beautiful thing about a plumbed CL is that you can T & valve off of it for quick water changes.

My 150 is plumbed for a CL but I run traditional powerheads instead, and use the original CL outlet for water changes. It's 1" on the outlet, and the return sides into the tank are 3/4". So my guess is that they ran some type of SCWD which had 3/4" outlets.
 
would the center overflow not hide the pipes for the CL. the way i read it was he wanted it 4 side veiwing

i thought the same thing for the power.

sounds like the center of will be 6 or 8" square with all the pipes in it
 
CL through the bottom... Just beware of leaks. And if there is a problem, you'll have to drain the tank to fix it.
 
eagle9252;810962 wrote: would the center overflow not hide the pipes for the CL. the way i read it was he wanted it 4 side veiwing

i thought the same thing for the power.

sounds like the center of will be 6 or 8" square with all the pipes in it

i think he probably meant not to have the CL inlet in the overflow, draw from the DT.

Edit: You could still run the supply piping in the overflow and then elbow into a bulkhead in the side of the overflow probably.
 
how much room is he going to have in the over flow to install bulkheads as well as 3-4 additional pipes? That's asking for trouble, IMO. When dealing with stuff like that, I like to have it as accessible as possible.
 
Ripped Tide;810965 wrote: CL through the bottom... Just beware of leaks. And if there is a problem, you'll have to drain the tank to fix it.
Actually you don't have to drain the tank to replace a bulkhead. A properly installed high quality bulkhead poses no greater risk of a leak than any other part of a system IMO.
 
I've never had an issue where I had to drain a tank and replace anything, but I'm just a bit paranoid and plan for the worse when it comes to dealing with large volumes of water. Would you do schedule 80 on a cl that is on the bottom or the regular abs?
 
For sure. You will see one here in a couple of weeks. To replace a bulkhead in a tank full of water is really easy. Use a large section of plastic pipe abs or pvc as a pylon. On one end adhere either weatherstripping or a cured bead of silicone . This will act as gasket. Place the pipe over the bulkhead to be replaced and apply enough pressure to seal. Either siphon the water out of the pipe or let it drain from the bulkhead into a bucket.
 
grouper therapy;810980 wrote: For sure. You will see one here in a couple of weeks. To replace a bulkhead in a tank full of water is really easy. Use a large section of plastic pipe abs or pvc as a pylon. On one end adhere either weatherstripping or a cured bead of silicone . This will act as gasket. Place the pipe over the bulkhead to be replaced and apply enough pressure to seal. Either siphon the water out of the pipe or let it drain from the bulkhead into a bucket.


Can I be there, beer in hand, when you attempt this.I must witness the flood.
 
grouper therapy;810980 wrote: For sure. You will see one here in a couple of weeks. To replace a bulkhead in a tank full of water is really easy. Use a large section of plastic pipe abs or pvc as a pylon. On one end adhere either weatherstripping or a cured bead of silicone . This will act as gasket. Place the pipe over the bulkhead to be replaced and apply enough pressure to seal. Either siphon the water out of the pipe or let it drain from the bulkhead into a bucket.

I think that would work done properly but see two major hurdles. First one would be maintaining pressure on the pylon. Second would be access to the bulkhead once the pylon is in place.
 
eagle9252;810962 wrote: would the center overflow not hide the pipes for the CL. the way i read it was he wanted it 4 side veiwing

i thought the same thing for the power.

sounds like the center of will be 6 or 8" square with all the pipes in it

Hmmm... that could work, then run the outputs out of the center overflow to create flow.
 
tbryan;810985 wrote: Can I be there, beer in hand, when you attempt this.I must witness the flood.

rdnelson99;810988 wrote: I think that would work done properly but see two major hurdles. First one would be maintaining pressure on the pylon. Second would be access to the bulkhead once the pylon is in place.
Too late ladies I've already done this more than once. The pressure can be applied in many ways.:unsure: In the first aquarium I used two sticks with a notch in them and then wedged it to the top of the canopy. In the second one I had my brother just hold it in place. Access to the bulkhead is easy as well . I screwed a pipe with a male adapter in one and in the other simply inserted a pipe in the bulkhead and removed it.
I've done this numerous times in an aquaculture facility and in actual lakes/ponds to service valves etc. Of course we used large culverts in the lakes set by an excavator.

No hurdles at all. Bridge builders have been doing this for centuries.

Edit: Maybe I should demonstrate the simplicity of this at one of the meetings.

Edit: ABS is easier since it is not foam core.
 
grouper therapy;811004 No hurdles at all. Bridge builders have been doing this for centuries. [/QUOTE said:
Basically a small coffee dam. I like the pipe stuck in the bulkhead idea.
 
SnowManSnow;810907 wrote: 30 inches will be hard to reach the bottom of, unless you're an ape

I am no Ape, I know it will be a stretch but I have a snorkel and mask, and a wife if it comes down to it. :D

I think I will do the CL remotely. I was planning on a WC tube, but you have a good point that I can T off the CL for that. I know the CL pickup is not supposed to be in the Overflow but that does raise a valid question of if I should come out of the sides of the overflow with the intake. It would keep my plumbing hidden. I will make a couple sketchup models and see what might work.

I would love to not have MH over this tank, although I would entertain T5 or LED, can I not do narrow range optics and get much PAR at 30" I have not done any experimenting with LED yet, so anyone that might have some par readings on a DIY LED @ 24-30" I would love to see some numbers. Seeing as it will be a column most of the coral would be on rock on the overflow column, so it would not be 16ft^2 that I would need to light. I might have a couple rock features out side of that column, but most of the coral I think I could almost spot light with lower spectrum light and have all my blue on an outer ring. Sorry if my thoughts aren't translating well, another reason to sketchup a little!

A dart was suggested for the CL, what would be an appropiate pump for my return assuming 14' of head pressure (accounting for 90's etc.) and the pump only running return.

Thank you all for the input. Hopefully I can whip up a sketchup in the next couple of days with a few ideas.
 
rdnelson99;811034 wrote: Basically a small coffee dam. I like the pipe stuck in the bulkhead idea.

Autocorrect strikes again. That should have said coffer dam.
 
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