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I have always used in sump skimmers but due to the size of the nw-150 i just got I need to do it externally. anybody have any tips? and do I leave the top of the exhaust pipe open still?
plumbing an external skimmer?
- Thread starter fraggel rock
- Start date
When you say exhaust, I assume you meant the water return from the skimmer to the sump?
Generally, if you place the water return from the skimmer below the sump water level via a piece of pipe you will experience some back pressure, meaning the water level in the skimmer will be higher than it should.
Of course, placing the skimmer return under the sump water level cuts way down on splashing, which is the downside of having the skimmer dump into the sump above the water level.
I've dealt with this two ways:
1. Have the skimmer return pipe stay above water, but in the piping a few inches before it gets to the sump water level, incorporate a 45 degree bend that allows the water to hit the side of the sump before it enters she sump water, thereby reducing the amount of splashing.
2. Have the skimmer return piping go below the sump water level, but 1-2 inches above the sump water level, drill four 1/4" holes in the sides of the return pipe in a compass pattern (evenly spaced). This equalizes pressure between the skimmer body water column and the sump water and keeps the water level in the skimmer the same, but greatly reduces the splashing and salt creep an open return can cause.
Also, if you incorporate a skimmate waste collector, you should have some type of float valve turn off that controls power to your skimmer feed pump and/or recirculation pump if you have one. It is not a matter of if your skimmer overfoams, but when. This could be something like a DA float switch hooked into an existing controller like a RKE or RKL or similar, or it could be a complete unit like this:
Generally, if you place the water return from the skimmer below the sump water level via a piece of pipe you will experience some back pressure, meaning the water level in the skimmer will be higher than it should.
Of course, placing the skimmer return under the sump water level cuts way down on splashing, which is the downside of having the skimmer dump into the sump above the water level.
I've dealt with this two ways:
1. Have the skimmer return pipe stay above water, but in the piping a few inches before it gets to the sump water level, incorporate a 45 degree bend that allows the water to hit the side of the sump before it enters she sump water, thereby reducing the amount of splashing.
2. Have the skimmer return piping go below the sump water level, but 1-2 inches above the sump water level, drill four 1/4" holes in the sides of the return pipe in a compass pattern (evenly spaced). This equalizes pressure between the skimmer body water column and the sump water and keeps the water level in the skimmer the same, but greatly reduces the splashing and salt creep an open return can cause.
Also, if you incorporate a skimmate waste collector, you should have some type of float valve turn off that controls power to your skimmer feed pump and/or recirculation pump if you have one. It is not a matter of if your skimmer overfoams, but when. This could be something like a DA float switch hooked into an existing controller like a RKE or RKL or similar, or it could be a complete unit like this:
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2. Have the skimmer return piping go below the sump water level, but 1-2 inches above the sump water level, drill four 1/4" holes in the sides of the return pipe in a compass pattern (evenly spaced). This equalizes pressure between the skimmer body water column and the sump water and keeps the water level in the skimmer the same, but greatly reduces the splashing and salt creep an open return can cause.
You just managed to confuse me...lol
You just managed to confuse me...lol
Imagine you have a pvc pipe going into your sump, below sump water level, from your skimmer. In the wall of the pipe a couple inches before the pipe enters the sump, you drill four holes in the pipe. This allows air from outside to enter the return pipe and equalize pressure with the water running thru it, but the majority of the water still enters the sump in an enclosed, but pressure equalized pipe.
Another thing, Octopus PVC is metric, which makes it a bit harder to deal with.
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Should I change the pvc? And what do i do about the pipe that runs up the height of the skimmer body? Do I need to cap that off?
Leave it as is. That is your wedge pipe. Water would never exit fro the top of that as it is as high as the top of the skimmer cup. You would never have the wedge pipe totally closed for any reason, only closed enough to get the appropriate water height in the skimmer body/neck.
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Thanks acro, I will post some pics once i get everything all squared awat to see what you think.
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