Plumbing question.

knightmetro

knightmetro

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Ok. I have a 120g reef and 40 sump I'm plumbing. Getting ready to fire up the new tank here soon.

I'm working on the return plumbing now and need some ideas.

I have a 1" return bulkhead. I'm thinking about a MAG12 and spiting it off to a 1/2" line to go to my fuge also. I want to be able to dial in how much goes to the fuge though. Like 3-400gph. Th rest goes up to the DT.

What would be the best way to set this up and where would I put my ball valves?
 
Got it. I'd probably do a straight up plumb as you mentioned above with a gate valve running the flow to your fuge. I learned the hard way that when it comes to precice control, gate valves are the way to go. Especially when you don't want too much flow going to your fuge.

I'd probably place my ball valves either right off of the center overflow. This will allow some dynamic with your fuge flow as well...
 
So a ball valve between my return and my pump. Say right off the overflow bulkhead, and then a gate valve say after the T joint headed to my fuge?

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That's what I had in mind. This enables you to completely route or cutoff flow to either your fuge and/or your tank. It also enables you to have a slow flow to your fuge without handicaping your flow to your tank.

Wouldn't hurt to put a check valve in there just in case your pump ever fails. Most sumps can hold the extra water volume, but, always better safe than sorry, right?

Any thoughts of a valve on your return? I had to add one to mine when the overflow was draining too quickly...
 
I have a valve on my drain already. That setup was pretty easy. Prolly should have figured some way to run the line from the drain and slit it to the fuge, but shouldn't find the T joint I needed to pull it off right.
 
Are you saying to run the split from your overflow instead of your return pump? If so, that'll work as well with pretty much the same principle. That'll also supply more nutrients to your fuge.

Right now, does your fuge overflow into your sump?

Got any pics of your current setup?
 
Ugh... I really do need to run a split off the drain. It would make this so much easier. I just have to find a T I can reduce the line from 1.5" to 1".

I'd rather the return run full to the DT. That way I can just tune the drain volume and not reduce the return line. I think I'm going to get the Eheim Compact+ 5000 anyway and that is fully adjustable.
 
Sounds like a plan. I'm sure your fuge will appreciate the unfiltered water even more anyway.

If you are looking locally, I've found that Lowes has a more diverse selection or PVC that Home Depot. I know I've seen Ts that have reducers here at my Lowes in Montgomery, AL. If you can't find one, just grab a T, then add your reducer right after or before it...

I like the sounds of that Eheim pump. I'm googling it right now. :)
 
Yeah. I'mm all about silent operation, and the MAG18 is known to be rather loud.

The Eheim 5000 runs at 660-1321 GPH, has a great knob to adjust, and is really quiet.
 
Like the looks of that pump.

Not trying to throw you off, or anything, but if you are looking into adding anything in the future with your setup, you may consider building yourself a manifold out of the PVC. It looks something like this, but, you can build it yourself for next to nothing with a couple of Ts and some leftover pipe.
manifold1.jpg
>http://pvcfittings.com/graphics/manifold1.jpg</a>

It's basically a bunch of Ts plumbed together with ball valves on the optional end.

I'll be adding one to mine as I have plans to do a uv, and a couple of reactors in the months to come...
 
When I plumb up a system I always run a union and a ball valve closest to the pump. This will make it much easier to change out/service by turning the ball valve and twisting a union (if externally).

check valves always scare me in reef systems. They are not meant for water that is not from a municipal water source and because our systems have biological film that can cause the check valves to fail. I have seen many systems flood from a faulty check valve as they age.
 
Appreciate the heads up on the check valve. I'll keep an eye on it each time I do a water change. It is one of the things that keeps all 35 gallons from my 120g DT from re-entering my sump when I drain the DT. If it is faulty, I should be able to catch it then. If it fails, I can manually turn off my gate valve and do my water changes...

It is more there as a precaution than a requirement...

Edit: Appreciate the heads up on the check valve. I'll keep an eye on it each time I do a water change. It is one of the things that keeps all 35 gallons from my 120g DT from re-entering my sump when I drain the DT. If it is faulty, I should be able to catch it then. If it fails, I can manually turn off my gate valve and do my water changes...

It is more there as a precaution than a requirement...
 
8 channel power manager. Backside has a power strip dedicated to lighting, and the left side one is on UPS battery backup.

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IMG_20130226_225648_zps7f7cd64c.jpg
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