Plumbing Re-do

[texhorns98]

I was doing a little maintenance this morning when I cam to find that BOTH of my check valves had failed when I turned off my pump. Here is a pic from my build thread showing the setup.

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I think I want to eliminate the bottom return. Or at least put a valve on it so I can perform maintenance on the check valves (biggest mistake I made). I'm also considering getting rid of the SCWD as I don't think my pump is putting out enough to have it make a difference. I can get to the bottom return and cap it off to be able to do pretty much anything. Ideas are welcome!

 

[wmboots]

if you want to get rid of swcd contact me, I have been considering purchasing a 1" swcd on my closed loop

 

[texhorns98]

Will do, sir!

 

[grouper therapy]

The scwd will perform much better when you cap the bottom return. As it is now the flow is being diverted to the bottom return where there is no head pressure.

 

[texhorns98]

Good point Grouper, and yet another flaw in the design. The idea was to be able to shut off the right return and force flow to the bottom back of the tank. Do you think I should cap it for good? Or put a valve in there so I can maintain the check valves. The check valves I have, it should be noted, are not cheapies!

 

[wmboots]

I would valve it just in case you decide you want to divert flow to the bottom again in the future

 

[grouper therapy]

valve it for sure

 

[texhorns98]

Now to see how I can manipulate plumbing in about 4 inches of space! Thanks guys...

Bill, I still may give up the SCWD. I have to MP40s and two Tunzes already working in there.

 

[texhorns98]

So one GOOD thing I did was put a union check valve on the lower return. I'd be hosed otherwise since most everything is glued back there. This will allow me to remove the entire plumbing system except that final turn. That being said, I think I'm going to have to completely redo everything since most of it is glued and there's no room to add much of anything without starting over.

I think the reason I originally left the valve out was because the connection point from my return pump to the assembly is almost flush with the top of my sump!

Any suggestions on changes I can make outside of adding a valve for the lower return? I will see if I have or can take any better pictures.

Edit: Can I use the union end of the check valve to thread a ball or gate valve in? I'd lose one of the check valves, but I plan on never running that return unless I'm there close by and would still have a wye check valve in place.

 

[cjsparky]

texhorns98;772216 wrote: Good point Grouper, and yet another flaw in the design. The idea was to be able to shut off the right return and force flow to the bottom back of the tank. Do you think I should cap it for good? Or put a valve in there so I can maintain the check valves. The check valves I have, it should be noted, are not cheapies!

How do you do water changes? if you siphon, instead you can valve the bottom one and use it for drainage.

Edit:

grouper therapy;772202 wrote: The scwd will perform much better when you cap the bottom return. As it is now the flow is being diverted to the bottom return where there is no head pressure.

Grouper, Wouldnt the head pressure be the same to the bottom as it would be to just below the waterline, seeing as if the pressure of the water in the tank would make the bottom return ACT as if it was a return just below the waterline? That being said...the squid is adding additional head pressure to the other returns, so in practical application what you said is correct?

CJ

Edit: just read the rest of the posts and looks like you already replumbed...sorry for my day late and dollar short post ;-p

 

[texhorns98]

I haven't replumbed yet! I'll be doing it this weekend. As for water changes, I either siphon or I open that valve seen on the right side of the manifold after I attach a hose to it. The problem with that becomes measuring the amount I'm taking out.

Edit: I've got some better pictures coming in a minute.

 

[texhorns98]

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Overall sump shot

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The return makes me nervous using flex line, but I had to go down below the barb enough to make the connection

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another return shot

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From tank level

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from below

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overall from above

 

[cjsparky]

I would think you could add a plastic hose clamp to both sides of the braided hose and never have an issue.

CJ

 

[texhorns98]

Cjsparky;772702 wrote: I would think you could add a plastic hose clamp to both sides of the braided hose and never have an issue.

CJ

It's not the braided part that worries me, it's the corrugated piece going from the first check valve to the return barb. It barely goes onto the barb! If I can figure a way to use PVC, I will.

 

[legalreefer]

How do you like the scwd (assuming you have it replumbed and running)? I read some not so good and some good reviews. It is something I would like to incorporate, but dont know if it is worth the cost...

 

[texhorns98]

LegalReefer;776181 wrote: How do you like the scwd (assuming you have it replumbed and running)? I read some not so good and some good reviews. It is something I would like to incorporate, but dont know if it is worth the cost...

I didn't end up plumbing it back in, actually. It wasn't that it didn't work, but it made it too hard to plumb my bottom return. I'm selling the one I have, jut haven't put up a thread yet. $40