Preoperative suggestions

joseayes

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Ok, so I haven't been likely participative on posting my concerns in the forum, this might be my lack of time or I might be that I'm not lucky enough to get responses in the threads that I had started, but anyway I'll give it a try again.

I'm in the sloooow process to build my tank, first thing to deal with would be two different areas, display inside the house, of course, then, sump and filtration across the wall that connects to the garage, two different temperatures, might be 10+ degress difference, hot or cold, Garage: concrete floor, non insulated door, one small window, insulated walls??? Not sure, insulated ceiling? Can be.

What could be your suggestions on dealing with temperatures display/sump?
There's no way for me to accommodate all filtration inside stand.

Opinions wanted.

Thanks.
 
My heater is in my overflow and the temp sensor is in the DT. Sump is in a separate closet adjoining the room, but will vent into the garage.

I'm thinking with a similar setup, or a controller with a couple different heaters, it shouldn't matter. The main concern is the temp of the DT, not the sump. If the DT is up to temp, the sump shouldn't be off more than a degree or so.
 
Antonio....I think it might be helpful for us to see pictures of where the tank is intended to be...the path by which you have to the garage and where the filtration will be. I have an opinion but would rather wait until I see the path.
 
Ok, so, I have 1 HUGE question!! Maybe a little off here.. From what I've sent, the temp will always be the same.. Now with that said, you will have issues controlling it. You will need more heaters in the winter and probably a chiller in the summer. But I believe the temps will be almost the same. After all, it is all the same water. Just moving from one to the other. The only way I see that it will differ is if you move the water extremely slow. Please tell me if I am correct.

Just my $.02
 
I currently have a temp gauge in my Sump/Refuge and one in my DT. Heaters are located in overflow and also in the corner of the DT. Now with that said I agree with Nick. The temp in my DT and my refuge is always the same, maybe 0.2 degrees off.

I also notice that my old Mag12 pump would raise the temp of the water as well which buffered my heaters, now that I am running a DC12000 i had to compensate.

I use these and they are cheap.

http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Digital-Fish-Aquarium-Thermometer/dp/B00GR0LKN8/ref=pd_rhf_gw_s_cp_15?ie=UTF8&refRID=19A9GN6EMB9XR0EB7Q8D">Amazon.com : HDE LCD Digital Fish Tank Aquarium Thermometer : Aquariums : Pet Supplies@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41HG3IQJjEL.@@AMEPARAM@@41HG3IQJjEL</a>

Might not be 100% accurate but by having one in my DT and Refuge I can attest to the water temps being the same across the board.

Hope it helps :)
 
nickg;1039240 wrote: Ok, so, I have 1 HUGE question!! Maybe a little off here.. From what I've sent, the temp will always be the same.. Now with that said, you will have issues controlling it. You will need more heaters in the winter and probably a chiller in the summer. But I believe the temps will be almost the same. After all, it is all the same water. Just moving from one to the other. The only way I see that it will differ is if you move the water extremely slow. Please tell me if I am correct.

Just my $.02

this.
especially if you have a 5x+ turnover.
temp is the same.

try to insulate the tank in the garage imo. same as we do with hot water heater covers.
you will still need a chiller and heater.
 
Lol.... I was running a mag 12, took it offline and installed a Reef Oct Waterblaster. Had to add a 2nd 500 watt heater to keep the temp up....
 
Hey you could run 4 or 5 mags in the winter and may not need much of a heater... But loose them in the summer and go DC.... &#55357;&#56841;
 
Thanks you all for the quick response!!!

Ok, I'll try and post pics of the location.

At posting this I was remembering one build thread that it was about the same, separated areas, haven't hear back from that member so it's a pretty much closed thread.

John, the heating would be supported for the 2x 300w heaters and all components within the aquarium would be under apex, not placing a heater in the display, just for looks.
The cooling would be supported by a chiller, that's where my concerns started, I believe I'll be getting more heat transfer from the garage than the equipment (external blueline pumps x2, for reactors and return, then I've chosen led's for lightning choice) and that's were my bill will beat me, fighting heat and cold.

Jeff, I'll try and cleanup the designed area to post pics.

Nick, I had those items already with me, I knew I wasn't going to be able to keep up on the temperature, issue is, try and use them, but not to be relying on them for use 24hrs at day, I meant, good equipment last, but under excesive stress everything breaks.

Russ, I have that considered too, if my numbers match I shouldn't have much of loss head for the pump and the turn over ratio would be about 8x or around, the only part where water could "possible" stay a little longer in the garage area would be in media reactors and UV light, but if an vital part of components, lets say a malfunctioning pump stop or break it's over, significant difference temp will between display and garage.

I not a Mag fan and never was, with so many pump choices, but it's hard to find pump/heater in one single item :lol:

Brent, I'll be tracking temps with apex. Had one of those probe/display temp readers before and they'll be showing the temp always, but they won't be able to remote manipulate something in case an
inconvenience occur.

I don't want to narrow my choices to insulate pipe and sump, they'll look funny but my guess is that I'll have to either, insulated the whole garage area (sliding car door and check for well insulated ceiling ) or install a dedicated small AC window unit so that environment should be about equal.


Evaporation rate would be another concern. Ahh choices...

More suggestions welcome please
 
Just throwing out ideas here...

How about partitioning off your sump area with insulated walls and a door, then you could install something to exchange air between the new room and house (like a bathroom vent). I am guessing that this would be more stable and possibly cheaper than overhauling the whole garage.
 
I agree with^^. The cost of building a couple of wall and even a small HVAC unit. Would make this system totally better.... Could then even loose the chiller probably. And depending on outside layout, 2x300 watt heaters won't be enough too....
 
I believe that option would be the most viable and convenient, for size and costs on the long run. And yeah, the evaporation rate could possible be less due to just an small designed area instead of using the whole garage. Eliminating the chiller is a good tip too, already have one but if I'm in no need that would better
 
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