Protein film on the surface

We just soak coralline encrusted stuff in vinegar and water for a few hours - that softens it up and it wipes right off.
 
JennM;671816 wrote: We just soak coralline encrusted stuff in vinegar and water for a few hours - that softens it up and it wipes right off.

I soaked it in apple cider vinegar for about an hour(Did it basically to just kill all the hair algae on them and clean them!). I had already done all of that before reading this, so I'm definitely going to do it again for a longer period of time to get the coraline off!:)

Edit:
blakejohn;671822 wrote: Another option is muratic acid. Mix ten parts water with one part acid (add acid to the water). Put pump in and turn it on.

Ten to twenty minutes later remove pump, disassemble, wipe down (I use a small tooth brush and q-tip), rinse and reassembled.

I have used muratic acid for years. It works much better than vinegar and much faster.to. just be sure.to rinse the parts well.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

I have muratic acid. We have some for our pool, but I dont know if it's the same stuff!?
 
Hmmm not sure I'd have used cider vinegar - make sure you rinse it really well regardless of what you use. We use just straight white vinegar - el cheapo at the supermarket or dollar store.

If you're using muriatic acid, be careful. It's a lot stronger than vinegar.

Jenn
 
JennM;671909 wrote: Hmmm not sure I'd have used cider vinegar - make sure you rinse it really well regardless of what you use. We use just straight white vinegar - el cheapo at the supermarket or dollar store.

If you're using muriatic acid, be careful. It's a lot stronger than vinegar.

Jenn

I wasn't please with the results! All it did was dyed the color of the coraline and turn it like a yellow color, but when brushed it went back to its usual color. I'm going to get some regular vinegar and do that instead!
 
yes use white distilled vinegar, it will pull the mineral deposits off. I would let it soak overnight though. An hour really wont do much IMO. We should have specified the type of vinegar to use. It will get off stuff that bleach wont touch. Bleach is better to kill algae while vinegar is better to rid of hard mineral deposits like coraline. If your worried about your tank soak one power head one night and then install it in the morning and let the other soak while your at school.
 
Hmmmm... Good idea! I'll give it a try! Also, does anyone know, if trace elements feed hair algae??? I have discontinued the use of it for now, until I see a decrease in it, in my sand! Before anyone asks, my parameters are good! The only thing I can think of that would still be making the hair algae grow are trace elements!
 
blakejohn;672018 wrote: You shouldn't be adding any trace elements unless you are testing for each and every one you add. That also goes for anything you may add to the tank.

Also, a water change should replentish most if not all the trace elements you may have lost.

For three years I have never added any additional trace elements of any kind and had a thriving mixed reef.
Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

I don't think they make test kits for elements such as manganese, etc. I use fuel by seachem!
 
I've never heard of anyone every testing their water for EVERY trace element. I will go ahead and tell you, I'm not! Hahah! Also, I dose it once a week on Fridays. The algae isn't out of hand, it's just unsightly! It's mostly in the sand, in little patches and when I siphon it out, it grows right back!
 
I just add them for coral growth and it works! Also, my colors are more vibrant. My LFS uses it regularly, I believe, It's a good product!
 
what you have to understand here how algae works, algae feeds of nitrates mostly. If you are getting test results back with no nitrates that means that what little nitrates are there the algae is consuming. Just because you are getting low numbers back on paper doesn't mean they arent there unless you have no algae. What would show up the algae is using as food. Did I explain that ok?

I would suggest uping your WC and maybe reducing your light cycle and try feeding a little less. Do you run any GFO or anything for phosphates? Do you test for phostphates? I got a huge decrease in the algae on my glass when I started using GFO.

Hope this helps
 
Fuel is a vitamin and amino acid supplement.

Algae is fed by light, phosphate and nitrate, and silicate.

Jenn
 
Smallblock;672044 wrote: what you have to understand here how algae works, algae feeds of nitrates mostly. If you are getting test results back with no nitrates that means that what little nitrates are there the algae is consuming. Just because you are getting low numbers back on paper doesn't mean they arent there unless you have no algae. What would show up the algae is using as food. Did I explain that ok?

I would suggest uping your WC and maybe reducing your light cycle and try feeding a little less. Do you run any GFO or anything for phosphates? Do you test for phostphates? I got a huge decrease in the algae on my glass when I started using GFO.

Hope this helps

I run my lights for 9 hours a day; should I reduce them to maybe, like, 7 hours? I will feed less, I usually feed every other day, 1 whole cube(Depending on which food it is. EX:Spirulina). I don't run anything. I have been told GFO is not really the way to go. I was thinking maybe bio pellets, but I haven't gotten there yet!

Edit:
JennM;672066 wrote: Fuel is a vitamin and amino acid supplement.

Algae is fed by light, phosphate and nitrate, and silicate.

Jenn

Should I run phosguard or bio pellets? Or maybe even the seachem product that has phosguard and carbon both in it?(can't remember the name!)
 
Back
Top