Found this useful info randomly and thought I would share to benefit the hobbyist, after all, that's what this forum is about. *No sponsors were hurt in the coping and pasting of this article*
BEST PRACTICES: QUARANTINE PROCEDURES & OBTAINING NEW FISH SPECIMENS
A healthy display tank begins with excellent water quality, healthy, compatible inhabitants. There is nothing more frightening and disappointing than adding a new specimen to a display, only to find out shortly thereafter, that it has become sick, and could potentially infect other specimens in the display. This puts the health and well-being of the entire display at risk. This is also probably the most common reason that hobbyists give up their pursuit of the hobby, particularly if they have a negative experience early on.
In this article, I will outline recommendations for shopping for and quarantining new fish specimens, and the steps the hobbyist can take to prevent illness and infestation in the display aquarium.
Quarantine is the safest and most effective way to protect your display creatures, and your investment, from this preventable problem. Unfortunately most hobbyists still do not have adequate measures in place to quarantine new acquisitions, and do not take these measures until they have already encountered a problem.
STEP ONE: BEFORE YOU BUY A FISH!
Ideally, hobbyists should have a quarantine system set up before they begin stocking their main display. In reality, this is rare. We all want our display up and running as quickly as possible, and in doing so, most skip what I consider to be one of the most important steps: Disease prevention and control.
EQUIPMENT
A quarantine tank does not have to be fancy. In fact, the simpler, the better. A quarantine system should be large enough to accommodate the largest specimen you intend to buy, comfortably. I recommend a minimum of 10 gallons, as most medications have dosing instructions based on 10-gallon increments. If you intend to buy larger specimens, such as large tangs and angels, a larger quarantine may be required. Select the size of quarantine system based on the requirements of specimens you anticipate buying, and if possible, select a system that is slightly larger than the bare minimum. While your new fish may only be spending a brief amount of time in the quarantine system, keeping the level of stress as low as possible will ensure the best chances of success.
KEEP IT SIMPLE
Since quarantine systems may need to be medicated and possibly sterilized after treatment, keep it simple. A vessel (aquarium, food-grade plastic tub), a filter, heater, thermometer, and some decorations to give the fish hiding places are all that is required. Lights are optional, and in some instances, it is recommended to leave lights off in order to keep the fish calm. Ambient room light is often sufficient. Pieces of PVC, plastic plants or plastic decorations will give the fish somewhere to hide, and can easily be cleaned and sterilized. I do not recommend sand or gravel in a quarantine, as some parasites release their offspring into the substrate to develop, and some medications are absorbed into porous surfaces and as such, are less effective. It is also easier to see and remove detritus from a bare-bottomed tank.
CYCLING THE QUARANTINE SYSTEM
This is the biggest obstacle that people encounter, particularly if setting up a quarantine system on an emergency basis, after a specimen has become ill. Placing an already sick fish into a new, un-cycled system can be just as, if not more stressful, than leaving it untreated in the main display. There are a few things that can be done to prepare a quarantine system ahead of time.
Biological Filtration: You have the quarantine tank, a filter, a heater, decorations, but no biological filtration. What to do? In a sudden emergency, this can be the biggest challenge. If no advance preparation was made, I recommend the use of Seachem Matrix™ bio-media, along with Seachem Stability® to rapidly prepare the quarantine system to deal with the organic waste that the fish will produce. One, 100 ml bag of Matrix™ is sufficient per 10 gallons of tank volume. The bag may be placed in the filter, or in the tank in an area of water flow. Water quality must be carefully monitored at all times.
If setting up a new quarantine tank on a non-emergency basis, place a new bag or bags of Matrix™ in your main display filter or sump ahead of time, and it will populate with beneficial bacteria and be ready when it’s needed. This type of pre-cycling can also be performed with a Bio-Wheel or other biological component of a power filter. Please note: Once this media has been used in quarantine with medications, it is not recommended to reintroduce it to the main tank. The biological media should either be left in the quarantine to keep the tank cycled, in which case it will still need a source of organics to keep it active, OR it should be discarded and replaced with new media the next time the quarantine tank is used. I often suggest that hobbyist have a spare biological medium on hand, preferably in the sump or filter of the main display, so it can be ready at any time. When one is taken from the display for use in quarantine, obtain another immediately and start it populating in the main display.
Remember: If using medications in the quarantine system, carbon should not be used. Carbon will remove many medications. Be sure to read directions carefully, dose accurately, follow the full course of treatment, and if possible, test for concentrations (i.e. Copper-based medications). Be aware that using multiple medications may be contraindicated. Always research medicines prior to use. In all circumstances, whether medicating or not, water quality in the quarantine must be monitored carefully, and any necessary corrections be made promptly. If the water quality is not right, nothing else matters.
STEP TWO: KNOW HOW TO SHOP FOR SPECIMENS
It seems easy enough, but there are some basic steps that hobbyists can take to avoid purchasing at-risk specimens. Here are a few guidelines to help one bring home the healthiest specimens possible.
RESEARCH
We’ve all done it. You’re in the store, that fish catches your eye, it’s irresistible, and you buy it. Once you get it home, you find out the hard way, that it’s difficult to keep, prone to illness or incompatible with your existing livestock. The most important thing one can do to prevent illness is to make sure that one can provide the best possible conditions for the organisms we buy. Avoid impulse purchases. Ask questions, and verify the information provided. There are many sources of information from the store staff, to books and the Internet. Always compare information given. Remember that opinions can and will differ, and give each consideration a good dose of common sense.
OBSERVE
Once you’ve decided on an individual specimen, and done the homework to confirm that it is compatible with your aquarium and inhabitants, watch it for a while. See how it interacts with its tank mates. Also observe other inhabitants of the tank, and the system if the store has multiple tanks with the same water supply. Illness in another tank on the same system can and will spread.
ASK
Ask the store staff how long the specimen has been in their care, if the information is not posted. Ask the staff if they have made any particular observations of that specific fish. Ask the store staff to feed the specimen, and make sure it is eating, and if necessary, ask what types of food it is eating. If it does not readily accept food, do not buy it right away. A good shop will not sell a fish that is not yet eating prepared foods, and will be willing to hold that specimen for a reasonable period of time, perhaps up to a week. Some stores may require a deposit which may or may not be refundable – ask first! At worst, if you bring the specimen home and it does not eat right away, you will know what it ate last, and when.
QUARANTINE
Even when it’s all done correctly, sometimes even the healthiest looking fish can come down with symptoms of infection or infestation. The transition from one environment to another can be very stressful, and that is when fish are most vulnerable. To avoid the potential of infecting all specimens in a display tank, we recommend quarantining new acquisitions for a minimum of 14 days, or longer if symptoms present and must be treated. In addition to protecting the existing creatures in your display, it is usually easier to treat a problem in a quarantine situation, than in a display tank, where the use of some medications may be contraindicated.
Which specimens should be quarantined? Quarantine every new acquisition! I cannot stress this enough. Despite best efforts along the chain of custody, illness and infestation can and do happen, and it’s not always obvious.
How long should I quarantine? This question will illicit different answers from different people. The author’s opinion is to quarantine new specimens for a minimum of 14 days. If after 14 days the specimen appears disease free, and is eating and otherwise behaving normally, it is likely safe to introduce to the display.
What if there is illness? If a quarantined specimen develops symptoms of illness, is not eating properly, or otherwise showing signs of malaise, it should remain in quarantine until the problem is addressed and resolved. In case of illness or infestation, treatment should begin immediately. It is important to identify the nature of the problem, and treat specifically for that problem, as well as any secondary problem that may pose a risk. There are many types of illnesses and infestations. It is also advisable to let the specimen remain in quarantine for a time after the problem seems to be resolved, in case of relapse.
What next? It is important to complete a full course of treatment, even if symptoms subside fairly quickly. Always follow the directions on any medications you use, for the full course recommended. Occasionally treatments may need to be repeated, or alternate treatments may be indicated. If changing medications after one course of treatment, it is important to remove all residual medication prior to starting a new medication. This may be done with partial or complete water changes, adsorption resins, or both. Medications interacting with each other can be harmful or fatal.
How long do I quarantine after treatment? Once all courses of treatment are complete, and all signs of illness have subsided, I recommend leaving the specimen in quarantine for another 14-30 days, depending on the nature of the illness treated. The clock starts at the end of treatment, provided that the fish appears healthy. This way, if the illness reappears, or a secondary illness presents, it can be dealt with in the quarantine without placing the display creatures at risk. Do not rush treatment or quarantine. If in doubt, it is better to leave the fish in quarantine a bit longer, than to expedite the process and encounter problems after the fish has been introduced to the display.
QUARANTINE CHECKLIST
Aquarium or food-grade vessel of appropriate size and shape. (10 gallons or more – appropriate to the size of specimens to be quarantined.)
Power Filter – any brand will do, ideally should provide 5 times water turnover per hour or better, for the size of quarantine vessel. If medicating, be sure to remove any activated carbon from the filter.
Items for hiding places for fish – PVC tubes, plastic decorations, plastic plants. Keep it simple and uncluttered, but provide some security for fish and can be easily cleaned and sterilized.
Biological media – media that is already biologically active is best. Seachem Matrix™ or other biological media can be placed in a display ahead of time to populate with beneficial bacteria, or in an emergency, can be used with Seachem Stability® to rapidly cycle the quarantine system.
Medications – it is recommended to keep several medications on hand at all times to treat common illnesses. Anti-parasite medication, antibiotics, anti-fungals, anti-stress conditioners, and water conditioners that bind ammonia and nitrite are recommended. We also recommend having an equipment disinfectant for cleaning nets, siphons and other equipment to prevent the spread of pathogens from one aquarium to another.
Resins or media to remove medications after treatment – activated carbon, Poly Filter Pad, Seachem CupriSorb™ are some examples. Be sure to remove all medications prior to beginning treatment with a different medication, as harmful interactions may occur.
