Questions... DIY stand

[cjsparky]

Hi all...

So I am finally getting my plans for a DIY stand straight in my head...however I have a few questions.

First, I will be making a 2 x 4 stand frame. I can put a center brace in the back,

(like this | | | <-- 3 equally spaced legs )

but want to install 2 2foot doors on the front for a nice 4' access. I was thinking the front supports could be like this...

( | | | | <--The large space in between the supports is 4' )

The tank is a 6 x 24 x 18 l x h x d so i guess it is called a 125 long? IF I double up the 2x4's in the front top horizontal suport...glued and screwed, can I get by without the center brace? Not only will it be the frame, but I will also be making the box out of adventech sheets, and then skinning that with a stainable paneling. The advantech will also be screwed to the frame for rigidity. Do I even NEED to double up on the front cross beam?

For the legs...I was thinking 1 2x4 in each corner, and the sheets of screwed on advantech would provide side to side rigidity...again SCREWED and GLUED to the 2x4's. Think I need to double up on the legs, or will 4 2x4's 1 at each corner sheathed in advantech work? note the other 3 vert. supports in my pathetic illustration above...

As far as the canopy goes....I am REALLY torn between a factory built light system/no canopy and a DIY matching canopy with DIY t5 lighting...decisions.

CJ

 

[cjsparky]

The front SHOULD have come out differently...


| = 2x4 legs...


|1'|--4'--|1'|

hope that makes sense...

 

[cjsparky]

Oops...forgot my second question....should I invest in a pocket drill guide for the 2x4's, and what kind of wood screw coating would be best...zinc?

CJ

 

[kayakatl]

Cjsparky;426927 wrote: Oops...forgot my second question....should I invest in a pocket drill guide for the 2x4's, and what kind of wood screw coating would be best...zinc?

CJ

Deck screws. They are made for a load and weather. Ill let someone who has built a stand answer for the supports!

 

[cjsparky]

Thanks!

An addendum to the above...

I will NOT be using Advantech...the resulting stand would be HEAVY...

I have changed plans a bit to use advantech for the inside flooring of the stand, and be skinning the stand front and sides with 1/4 ply, and then contact cementing red oak ply to that.

I will be building or finding 2 x 2' doors in oak. Do not want to have a brace in the center...

CJ

 

[mojo]

The tank is a 6 x 24 x 18 l x h x d so i guess it is called a 125 long?

I assume that's supposed to be 60x24x18...

As long as you use the 2x4's turned vertically at the top of the stand, you don't need the center brace. Glue isn't needed as well. Your tank will be about 1000lbs total - a clear 2x4, 4' tall can hold about 4000 lbs...

Remember that typical aquarium stands from the store are built out of 3/4" plywood... no inner frame. And it's very, very rare that they fail.


Canopy's are difficult. I've built a number of stands and a number of canopies. Stands are easy. Canopy's are a pain - I'd consider buying one...

 

[bclark7169]

If it is a 125 then it is 72" x 24" x 18"

 

[cjsparky]

Hmm so 1x4 frame skinned with the ply? Sounds nice...lighter for sure.

I DID mean 72" As far as the 1x4 lumber...would you recommend pine or birch or something else?

 

[cjsparky]

Wasnt going to use 3/4 ply...

Was going to use 1/4 or so ply and skin it with a hardwood 1/4 ply... so 1/2 inch thick total.

CJ

 

[grouper therapy]

I would consider using plywood as the frame as well instead of dimensional lumber as it is not as stable as plywood. 2 layers of 3/4" x 3 1/2" plywood glued together properly is much stronger than any 2x solid material. For a 72" long tank I would recommend going to a 5 1/2" upper horizontal .

 

[jonathan]

Is this a standard rimmed tank? If so, only the rimmed edge will be touching the stand and the bottom glass is supported by the bottom rim. Flat bottomed (most rimless) tanks need to be supported over the entire bottom and a piece of foam is usually recommended to make up for any uneven corners/spots. I used a pour on finish (Envirotex) to ensure a completely flat surface for my 120 rimless. The stand design will depend on how the tank is assembled.

Good luck!

 

[cjsparky]

Its a standard all glass 125 long...

I am thinking that plywood glued and screwed to the top brace should be good to go...I can certainly brace the tack with 1x6 lumber at the top, and 1x4 at the bottom...

I am looking into some shaker style red oak unfinished doors for the front, and found a place that can do a custom job for me reasonably... 24" x 30" doors times 2 for about 130 bucks plus shipping... not too shabby...I am looking forward to having a wide open stand access when I build this...going to be so much better than my current pine stand.

CJ

 

[cjsparky]

So...

A few changes...I decided to go back to the 1/4" Ply and 2x4's, and then skin that with A grade Oak ply.

Quick question.

The stand seems a tad wobbly right now. Will that go away once the weight of a filling tank is sitting on the top?

CJ

 

[rsjoiner]

There should be no WOBBLE to the stand before or after installing the tank!

 

[grouper therapy]

It will worsen usually

 

[grouper therapy]

Can you post pics?

 

[cjsparky]

If it makes any difference, the frame is all thr right length... All legs are equal, it just seems to be a tad racked... Was hoping the tank would settle it out.

 

[kayakatl]

You really want no movement. You used screws not nails correct? Pictures would help tremendously. If there is anywhere you could but an X brace it would help. This is your investment you are supporting. I would not settle for anything less than solid as a brick wall.

 

[cjsparky]

Pics coming up...

 

[cjsparky]

BTW when I say wobbly...I do NOT mean Flimsy...The sucker is Ridgid as can be and could support a car probably...