Questions... DIY stand

OK here is what I have so far...All 2x4 joints were accomplished using Gorilla Glue, and Pocket Screws. http://www.kregtool.com/products/pht/product.php?PRODUCT_ID=32">http://www.kregtool.com/products/pht/product.php?PRODUCT_ID=32</a> was used for the pocket jig, and 2" pocket screws used as well...


The stand is now on its back...and the front left side is being skinned with the 1/4" Oak Ply. This is a view from the BOTTOM side looking down at the front...remember it is laying on its back. In order for the grain to work...this has to be done in two phases.

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This is a look at the front, from INSIDE the stand, top looking down inside. you can se that even though I am making a 4' wide door...the front corners are each supported by 2 2x4's each. In the end, the stand will have a 2x4 support in each corner, the front will have 2 more 2x4's 1 foot in from the sides, and the back will have an extra support in the middle.

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This is a look at thefront un-skinned side. You can see here, that before I skinned the box eith oak, I used 1/4" Ply first. You will note that the ply is screwed all along the perimeter, and is also screwed into the support added 1 foot inside the 6 foot stand, creating a frame for the 4' Opening. Liquid nails was also used to augment the screws.

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Here is one portion of the skinning...for the 6 foot stand, I was able to skin the front with a vertical grain by matching up 2 L shaped pieces from the same sheet of Oak plywood. I am using Paneling glue (comes in a caulk tube like liquid nails), and screwing the top and bottom edges with deck screws again. I can use screws here as the piece will be trimmed top and bottom with 1x4 Red Oak. The Red Oak strips will be attached with wood screws piloted and SCREWED FROM BEHIND so no nail marks will be visible in the trim...notice the screws...It is also interesting to note that no seams aside from the edges of the plywood line up.

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And thats as far as I am so far. I am planning on letting the first panel cure overnight, and attaching the next L panel to the front tomorrow. The 2 seams will only have about 1/2 to 1 inch visible after the trim and doors go on.

About the wobble...I noticed that if I turn the stand a bit...the wobble takes on a new direction, beaning I do not think the concrete floor is floated perfectly...maybe the cause of the wobble.

CJ
 
Side note, once the skinning is cured, a router will be used to match the edge to that of the regular 1/4 Plywood, giving it the appearance of a single piece of 1/2 Oak plywood.
 
I think you are using the wrong term to describe the movement. The stand is probably rocking on the concrete floor since it is not perfectly level. I see no reason this stand should wobble. You have done a sufficient job in joining and staggering the joints to prevent failure at the joints. The pockets screws are a great method for attachment until the glue cures good job. The skinning with plywood has also added to the structural integrity of the stand as well. I could sit here as a cabinet maker/ stair builder of 25 yrs and tell you a 100 different ways you could have attained the same results with less effort, time etc. I will not though as you have taken the initiative to try it yourself ,planned it and moved forward with it with good results so far. I applaud and respect you. Good job!!
 
Hi all...

So I got a little bit more done today, and am now letting the side panels set up/cure. My next step is using a router to trim back the oak plywood overhanging pieces to match the 1/4 inch pine below. Once that is finished it will be ready for trim, sand, and gel stain!

Here are some pictures of it today!

This is a shot from behind the stand, and the stand is resting on its right (when looking at the stand) side. Both the left and right oak skins are curing right now. The bucket on the top is filled with crushed coral as a weight.

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Next picture is a portion of the front. It has already been skinned with the oak plywood, so this is just an example of the grain. Me like-ee!

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This last picture is a view of the top of the stand, sitting on its side, floor installed...

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Anyone have any suggestions on what to paint the floor with to make the floor a tad more resilient to salt water?

Thanks!

Christian
 
Cjsparky;432897 wrote: Hi all...

Anyone have any suggestions on what to paint the floor with to make the floor a tad more resilient to salt water?

Thanks!

Christian

Two part cement floor epoxy paint/treatment, available at Lowe's & HD.
 
OK so here are a few pictures...Inside of stand has its first coat, and the cabinet has been gel stained...

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CJ
 
Looks great. wish I had the space and time to build a new stand but since the arrival of 2 grand kids my basement (finished) became their playroom and most xtra time (and I'm retired) gets devoted to them.Just upkeeping of my tanks is about all the time I have anymore. Next project is to build a universal type mh light fixture.
 
Hi Big D!

Thanks for the response. I am planning on installing a brace there when everything is completed. Will be cutting it to perfect size, and will be using pocket screws to hold it in place. I have not installed it yet, as I did want to make it removable incase I decide to go with a larger sump one day, and dont want to have problems installing it from the rear, IF it wont fit in the front.

I did not want it to get stuck with the paint down there, so I am holding off untill painting is complete.

CJ
 
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