Rawn's LED attempt

nano-reef.com has a lot of led builds on there. there is a thread with all of the information needed to build something like this withe a list of all the mfg for all of the parts.
 
Sorry I have not been on in a while been busy at work so LED build stalled.

I am using 2 8.5x11 with 24 (12 cw and 12 rb) to start. I just got the arduino working ramping up and down for the lights. I have ordered temp sensors to put on the heat sinks to turn on a fan for each since I noticed some heat. I also ordered a 4 relay board to control the fans, only need 2 but have spares. I am using a lot of info I have learned reef central. There are a lot of good people willing to help with the arduino. One person has set up a website specific for this type off build with all you need to know. I am on my wifes computer so I will have to fined it and will post it later.he

Here is the site I was talking about
a>
 
roundman;652233 wrote: Sorry I have not been on in a while been busy at work so LED build stalled.

I am using 2 8.5x11 with 24 (12 cw and 12 rb) to start.

So, you have 12 LEDs on each heat sink? If so, you'll be at about 12 per foot and I'm planning about 18 per foot using the same width heatsink.

roundman;652233 wrote:
I just got the arduino working ramping up and down for the lights. I have ordered temp sensors to put on the heat sinks to turn on a fan for each since I noticed some heat.

I use this http://ryanjmclaughlin.com/wiki/Arduino_Thermocouple_Shield">http://ryanjmclaughlin.com/wiki/Arduino_Thermocouple_Shield</a> arduino shield for the thermocouples on my coffee roaster--extremely easy to use. I've got it on a black widow 'duino ([IMG]http://asynclabs.com/store?page=shop.product_details&flypage=&product_id=23&category_id=11&vmcchk=1">http://asynclabs.com/store?page=shop.product_details&flypage=&product_id=23&category_id=11&vmcchk=1</a>) with built in wifi and I log straight to a PC with no cables.

[QUOTE=][B]roundman;652233 wrote:[/B]
I also ordered a 4 relay board to control the fans, only need 2 but have spares. I am using a lot of info I have learned reef central. There are a lot of good people willing to help with the arduino. One person has set up a website specific for this type off build with all you need to know. I am on my wifes computer so I will have to fined it and will post it later.he

Here is the site I was talking about [IMG]http://www.reefledcontroller.com/">http://www.reefledcontroller.com/</a>[/QUOTE]

I'd love to see some temp data when you get some. If you can share some general impressions of what you've got now, I'd like to hear.

-Phil
 
Crew;652161 wrote: Royal Blue is dominant in 450-465nm
Blue is dominant 465-485nm

Photosynthesis is 420-460nm

This statement is not supported by the literature, even in corals. The action spectrum for terrestrial plants is more continuous/filled-in.

Here is a link to a paper written in the 1960's, showing that there is a significant history of this in the literature. Check out the graph of the zooxanthellae spectra found in a favia (scroll down the article).

http://www.biolbull.org/cgi/reprint/134/3/411.pdf">http://www.biolbull.org/cgi/reprint/134/3/411.pdf</a>

Perhaps you are referring to the blog below. There are several errors, including the definition of the term actinic to mean light around 450 nM, as well as reference to photosynthesis occuring from ~430-460 nM. Actually actinic is a throwback to earlier days in photochemistry which meant light that demonstrated photochemical [B]acti[/B]vity. The lamps used were black light, and billiribin lamps (used to treat billirubinemia in babies, a form of jaundice). Wavelengths around those produced by these lamps are still referred to as actinic. In chemistry and physics it is often accepted that actinic means anything in the UV (a, b, or c) up through the blue wavelenghths (to ~480 nM), for example.

[IMG]http://www.reef-visions.com/forums/index.php?action=articles;sa=view;article=4">http://www.reef-visions.com/forums/index.php?action=articles;sa=view;article=4</a>

Below is a graph typical of the action spectrum of corals, due to several pigmets, including chlorophylls a & c, as well as peridinin (from zooxanthellae) and carotenoids (like carrot, meaning orange) which absorb blue's. All pigmets have been shown to be 'accessory' pigments other than chlorophyll a, because they give up their absorbed energies to that pigment/molecule. All visible wavelengths contribute to photosynthesis, some just better than others.

As you can see below, the absorption spectrum peaks around 460 nM due to the peridinin. Hope this helps. (graph courtesy Steve Tyree)
[IMG]http://www.reefs.org/library/talklog/s_tyree_060202/pas.jpg alt="" />
 
I didn't mean photosynthesis ONLY works in 420-460, I just meant that that is where it is most efficient. The LED info is straight from Cree
 
Ok. I read your earlier post where you said...

"Blue LED's are essentially worthless for coral, wrong spectrum. Royal Blue is in the correct range for coral growth."

...after the second post I sensed some misunderstanding and wanted to clarify.
 
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