Reef under Siege - Waterbox AIO 50.3

[siege]

This is my office where I work 35 - 70 hours a week (not to mention the time I spend in here to hide because my children are being too noisy). It's almost as if the Waterbox 50.3 AIO was designed to fit in this space... or the space was designed for the tank, take your pick:




Also, my bit 'o rock and bucket of shells - it looks like I might have a line on more live rock than I can use, if I want to drive clear across town to get it, that is. If you've got spare dry rock you're looking to get rid of for free or cheap and are nearby, please send a DM, I'm definitely interested.

I was originally planning on expanding my desk into that space where the tank is sitting. Either the tank or the added desk space could go to my right (and a bit behind, from the perspective of the camera - it's a corner desk, there's more stuff there). I'm torn, though - I'm left-eye dominant, and so tend to favor working that direction, even though I'm right handed. I love the idea of the tank being just there (though I hope the noise won't get to me - I'm on the autism spectrum, and sensitive to such things), BUT, also... it's not visible on my camera when I'm on calls and I kind of want to be able to show off Still, I think I want to see it more than I want others to, especially since I can't have my drums in my office any more like I did at my last place - maybe I can at least get cognitive breaks looking at fish.

Frankly, the biggest problem with it being right there (aside from pump/skimmer noise) that I can see is that I am also light sensitive, particularly on migraine days... which unfortunately happens about weekly, and I tend to keep it fairly dim in my office regardless. So I'm running tests with the lights on (though the tank is empty) to see how well I cope in the meantime, and I guess if it winds up staying there, my migraine days are going to wind up being rainy/cloudy days for the corals. Maybe I can put a curtain on it

Thankfully, the washer/dryer room is immediately behind my office (behind left, from camera). I went ahead and punched a hole in the wall and covered with a removable panel so that I can access the cold water line for my RO/DI and the drain for water changes, which will go a LONG way towards minimizing hassle and making sure I actually do maintenance. That also happens to be the same wall that would be visible behind me on camera though then I'd have to turn around to see the tank. That would, however, also put it right next to the access panel for the water and drain.

To the left of the left-most window, I'm punching a hole in the exterior wall to run some cabling for exterior cameras and WiFi antennae, and while I'm at it I'm going to run an air-line to connect to my skimmer - there are 4 adults, 2 children and 5 cats between the 3 levels of our home (we'll be adding a German Shepherd soon, too), and I tend to keep my office door closed during the day. As a result, I want to try to reduce pH drops from atmospheric CO2, which I already struggle with in my freshwater tank where I'm adding 1/8 to 1/4 tbsp of soda ash a week to that 29g bow, irrespective of water changes, just to maintain a pH of 7.0.

Aquascaping is going to be a bit of a challenge, because I have to consider both the angled perspective from which I will usually view the tank from my desk, as well as from the front-on. I think I have my head wrapped around it, but I need more rock than I have before I can get started. I'm still considering if I want to try to plan for an eel pot, which I do kinda think I want.

Looks like I'll be picking up salt soon now that the group buy is ready. I think I need new media for the RO/DI. Also picking up a Power Bar 8 (not one of the fancy ones) shortly as well. I'm planning on a ~3" bed of black sand. I need wave pumps, a python, and other misc stuff. A QT tank, I guess (anyone got a spare 20 long for sale?) I haven't figured out what I want to use to mix up salt in, but I don't think doing it 5 gallons at a time is a sustainable plan, and need a large container and I guess a pump for it. Need to settle on a skimmer and pick which heaters I want to go with. A light and pump for the fuge, and a step bit to drill it with. ATO kit for said ATO. And finally, I need misc. chemicals/additives and test kits, and then I think I'll be ready to start filling as soon as I finish 'scaping.

One thing at a time, holidays were awful expensive this year: here's to hoping my taxes aren't.

 

[siege]

50.3G Reef Tank - Stocking Plan & Introduction Timeline​

Tank Overview
This is my planned livestock introduction timeline for my 50.3-gallon reef tank. The goal is a balanced, sustainable reef with diverse inverts, corals, and a carefully selected mix of fish. This plan prioritizes stability, pod cultivation, and long-term compatibility. All fish and inverts are set-in-stone picks, but corals will be added based primarily on tank maturity for the type, followed by availability.

---

Stocking Plan​

Phase 1 - Early Introductions (During Initial Cycling & Stabilization)​

This stage uses bottled bacteria and potentially a coralline algae booster to support the biological cycle. Corals will be added first, allowing the tank to stabilize before fish and mobile inverts.

Starter Corals (2-4 Hardy Picks for Stability)​

• Selection is flexible depending on availability and pricing.
• Any of the following may be chosen (not all will be added immediately):
  • Clove Polyps (Clavularia spp.)
  • Xenia (Xenia spp.)
  • Leather Corals (Sinularia spp.)
  • Mushrooms (Rhodactis, Ricordea)
  • Corky Sea Fingers (Briareum asbestinum)

Note: Green Star Polyps (Pachyclavularia violacea) are optional and likely only be added if acquired cheaply or for free. I'm trying to keep the tank low maintenance and don't think I want to deal with GSP going weedy.

Hardy Starter Fish (Added Shortly After Corals Stabilize)​

• Neon Goby (Elacatinus oceanops)
• Common Clownfish (Amphiprion ocellaris/percula)

Fish selection will depend on availability and price.

Initial Cleanup Crew & Inverts (Gradual Additions)​

Primary Cleanup Crew (Added ASAP)

• Cerith Snails
• Nassarius Snails
• Dwarf Blue-Legged Hermit Crabs (Clibanarius tricolor) - Display Tank (DT) & Refugium

Other Early Inverts (Phased Additions)

• Feather Dusters (Sabellidae spp.) - Start in refugium, possible move to DT later.
• Mini Porcelain Crabs (Petrolisthes spp.) - Refugium Only
• Mini Brittle Stars (Ophiuridae spp.) - Refugium Only

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Phase 2 - Post-Stabilization Additions​

Macroalgae (After Refugium is Established & Balanced)​

• Macroalgae will not be added to the DT immediately.
• Focus will be on establishing the refugium first, balancing nutrients before adding decorative macroalgae to the DT.

Fish (Early Community Members)​

• Green Clown Goby (Gobiodon atrangulatus)
• Firefish Goby (Nemateleotris magnifica)
• Royal Gramma Basslet (Gramma loreto)

Corals & Anemones (Gradual Introductions)​

• Frogspawn Coral (Euphyllia divisa)
• Torch Coral (Euphyllia glabrescens)
• Rock Flower Anemones (Phymanthus crucifer, 2 or more)
• Mini-Max Carpet Anemone (Stichodactyla tapetum, 1 or more)
• Clove Polyps (Clavularia spp.)

Bubble Tip Anemone (BTA) is being reconsidered due to containment concerns.

Misc. Inverts​

• Tuxedo Urchin (Mespilia globulus)
• Lettuce Sea Slug (Elysia crispata) - Refugium Only, Major goal
• Fighting Conch (Strombus spp.)

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Phase 3 - Intermediate Stage (As Tank Matures & Bioload Balances)​

Fish​

• Mandarin Dragonet (Synchiropus splendidus) - Target pod population stability - Major goal
• Pink-Streaked Wrasse (Pseudocheilinops ataenia)
• 3x Blue-Green Chromis (Chromis viridis) - Still evaluating sustainability in setup

Intermediate Corals​

• Bubble Coral (Plerogyra sinuosa)
• Selective Additional Ricordea Mushrooms
• Selective Zoanthids (Zoantharia spp.)
• Candy Cane Coral (Caulastrea spp.)
• Discosoma Mushrooms (Discosoma spp.) - Notably, Magic Carpet
• Elegance Coral (Catalaphyllia jardinei)
• Toxic Plate Coral (Cycloseris spp.)
• Pavona Coral (Pavona spp.) - "Canary" for SPS readiness

Misc. Inverts​

• Cleaner Shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis)
• Decorator Crab (Camposcia retusa) - Refugium Only, After Macroalgae Established
• Sponges (Various, TBD)
• Sexy Shrimp (Thor amboinensis) - Refugium Only

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Phase 4 - Advanced Stage (Long-Term Goals)​

SPS & Advanced LPS Corals​

• Select SPS corals for upper tank regions, depending on PAR
• Additional advanced LPS based on availability

Misc. Inverts​

• Electric Scallops (Lima spp.) - Major goal
• Sea Cucumber (Holothuria spp.) - Only small, low-risk species for DT
• True Nudibranchs - Only if ecosystem supports them (Fuge consideration) - Major goal
• Burgundy Starfish (Fromia spp.) or Blue Linckia (Linckia laevigata) - Only after sufficient research & tank stability
• Harlequin Shrimp (Hymenocera elegans) - Only if Asterina star population allows
• Tridacna Clam (Tridacna spp.) - Major goal

Fish (Maybe/Later Considerations)​

• Long-Term Maybe: Garden Eels (Heteroconger spp.) - Unlikely but scape design allows for future consideration.

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Final Notes & Strategy​

Refugium (14-Gallon) Goals:

• Reverse light cycle for pH stability & nighttime viewing
• Macroalgae focus: Dragon’s Tongue, Halimeda, Red/Blue/Purple Gracilaria
• Potential RFA (Rock Flower Anemone) if space allows
• Copepod Cultivation is a priority for the Mandarin Dragonet
• No Mangroves - Originally planned, but removed due to disruption potential and no unique benefits over macroalgae.

Stocking Order Strategy:​

1. First wave: Hardy corals (2-4), macroalgae in refugium, initial cleanup crew.
2. Starter fish: Clownfish & neon goby after corals stabilize.
3. Refugium fully stocked & balanced before adding macroalgae to DT.
4. Gradual livestock additions based on tank stability, not arbitrary timelines.

 

[scottw]

I see a lot more space for a far bigger tank

 

[siege]

I see a lot more space for a far bigger tank

So, a friend has/had a spare 100g floating around somewhere on her property that she said she'd give me, assuming she can find it in one piece and still holding water.

If so it will eventually land on the wall behind where I sit on the left of this pic (pardon mess, still moving in and unpacking/organizing), once I can get a stand for it. The white square on the wall there is the access panel to the laundry. Lots of room in the closet, but no power, unfortunately.

 

[scottw]

That would be awesome to have a couple tanks in there. Like you, I work from my home prison too so having some life in there will make it a lot more enjoyable for you for sure! Great start to the new tank!

 

[siege]

Yeah. I'm torn tho whether I'd try to start a second reef (would be great to have the extra water and display volume, but the lighting... oy vey, the lighting... and sump...) or do a paludarium. I've seen some of the latter I've really fallen in love with, like this one, and at least the lighting is cheap:

 

[scottw]

I know zero about freshwater tanks, but they are beautiful when planted!

 

[siege]

I know zero about freshwater tanks, but they are beautiful when planted!

Heh. They are a LOT easier to take care of - I can about handle them in my sleep. In my planted 29g shrimp tank (with a few fish - if you can't tell from my stock list above, I like inverts), I track pH, kH/gH, TA, NO2/NO3, NH3, and, once in a blue moon, Fe. That's it. After first standing it back up, I did 15% changes weekly for a month. Now I'm at 10% every 2 weeks or so, where I'll hold for now. Once my next round of planting is done, I'll probably shift to 10-15% every 1 - 3 months for the foreseeable future. I dose 1ml of "shrimp minerals", 1ml chelated iron, 1ml stress coat, 1/8 tbsp soda ash, and 1/8 tbsp epsom salt per 5 gallons changed, no more, no less. It's just that easy, and consistent.

Especially with planted tanks, if you do it right, you can get them to where you do a 10% water change just a few times a year, and feed somewhere between once a week to once a month, especially if all you have is shrimp, snails, some smaller fish, and a healthy micro-/meso-fauna population (copepods, isopods, amphipods, etc.) - it helps though if you're using a sand-capped dirt/soil substrate.

I'm actually looking forward to helping my wife set up her pea-puffer and snail-breeder tanks almost as much as I am my reef.

But there's still nothing that can match a reef tank for sheer, unadulterated, vibrant beauty, movement, and variety.

 

[Hunna]

Heh. They are a LOT easier to take care of - I can about handle them in my sleep. In my planted 29g shrimp tank (with a few fish - if you can't tell from my stock list above, I like inverts), I track pH, kH/gH, TA, NO2/NO3, NH3, and, once in a blue moon, Fe. That's it. After first standing it back up, I did 15% changes weekly for a month. Now I'm at 10% every 2 weeks or so, where I'll hold for now. Once my next round of planting is done, I'll probably shift to 10-15% every 1 - 3 months for the foreseeable future. I dose 1ml of "shrimp minerals", 1ml chelated iron, 1ml stress coat, 1/8 tbsp soda ash, and 1/8 tbsp epsom salt per 5 gallons changed, no more, no less. It's just that easy, and consistent.

Especially with planted tanks, if you do it right, you can get them to where you do a 10% water change just a few times a year, and feed somewhere between once a week to once a month, especially if all you have is shrimp, snails, some smaller fish, and a healthy micro-/meso-fauna population (copepods, isopods, amphipods, etc.) - it helps though if you're using a sand-capped dirt/soil substrate.

I'm actually looking forward to helping my wife set up her pea-puffer and snail-breeder tanks almost as much as I am my reef.

But there's still nothing that can match a reef tank for sheer, unadulterated, vibrant beauty, movement, and variety.

This was my little 7.5g shrimp tank. Like you mentioned, at the end of having it I was doing 3-4 water changes a year. There were ~ 100 neos, 4 amano, and who knows how many snails. I would top off once a week because I DIY’d a plexiglass lid for it with holes drilled in to limit evaporation. Once set up and the plants had taken off, the only maintenance required was trimming the plants back. It was a low-tec as possible, and thrived. I miss that tank, and hate that I let my ex-wife talk me into getting rid of it.

 

[siege]

This was my little 7.5g shrimp tank. Like you mentioned, at the end of having it I was doing 3-4 water changes a year. There were ~ 100 neos, 4 amano, and who knows how many snails. I would top off once a week because I DIY’d a plexiglass lid for it with holes drilled in to limit evaporation. Once set up and the plants had taken off, the only maintenance required was trimming the plants back. It was a low-tec as possible, and thrived. I miss that tank, and hate that I let my ex-wife talk me into getting rid of it.

Wow, love that - definitely another one of Hunna's Stunna's! Since she's the ex-, what's stopping you from setting up another? If you put in some Australian fish it could be Hunna's Freshie Stunna from Down Unda!

They're not exactly free to set up, but compared to a reef... ? Plus, no need to buy fluval stratum or any of those expensive clay substrates, you can use 1" of organic potting soil with a 2" sand cap if you don't mind sacrificing the little extra bit of volume. 1" of sand over 1" of gravel over 1" of soil is also really excellent, as the layer of gravel helps a lot to minimize clouding or soil disturbances whenever you add or move plants. If you've got a healthy freshwater body nearby, you can grab a few leaves out of it, dump them in the newly cycling tank, and get yourself a free and easy micro- and meso-fauna population... or you can put said leaves in a large jar or so, and attempt to culture only specific things like daphnia and apocyclops. Personally, on a new tank, I'd just throw them straight in the DT (but not on an established tank).

 

[Hunna]

Wow, love that - definitely another one of Hunna's Stunna's! Since she's the ex-, what's stopping you from setting up another? If you put in some Australian fish it could be Hunna's Freshie Stunna from Down Unda!

They're not exactly free to set up, but compared to a reef... ? Plus, no need to buy fluval stratum or any of those expensive clay substrates, you can use 1" of organic potting soil with a 2" sand cap if you don't mind sacrificing the little extra bit of volume. 1" of sand over 1" of gravel over 1" of soil is also really excellent, as the layer of gravel helps a lot to minimize clouding or soil disturbances whenever you add or move plants. If you've got a healthy freshwater body nearby, you can grab a few leaves out of it, dump them in the newly cycling tank, and get yourself a free and easy micro- and meso-fauna population... or you can put said leaves in a large jar or so, and attempt to culture only specific things like daphnia and apocyclops. Personally, on a new tank, I'd just throw them straight in the DT (but not on an established tank).

Time, money, and space. I’m about to be combining my little Eshopps Deskmate and WB 25 peninsula into a 40g though, and have been debating running the Deskmate as either a shrimp tank or Betta tank for my 3 year old. I’d prefer shrimp, but she would probably enjoy a betta more at her age.

 

[siege]

Once it's pushed back against the wall, this should be pretty close to the perspective I will normally view it from, so I'm trying to take that into account for how I 'scape it. Now that I've got the lines laid out and the sand level marked (in dry-erase) I'm sure and certain I want to put an eel pot in the back right corner of the tank, but I'm still trying to sort out what will be pleasing both from the front, as well as from this angle.

 

[siege]

I picked up a 20 long ("horizontal") today to use as a QT tank, because that's what the going recommendation seemed to be. They're half-off at Pet* (yes, both of them) and $30 seemed a pretty decent deal on a new open top tank, considering I couldn't find them cheaper on FB marketplace, nor remotely as close as the PetSmart that is 2 miles from my house.

My wife sees it, declares it would be perfect for her pea puffers - much better than the standard 20 gallon I had set aside for it.

So I just bought another 20 long Now I have a spare 20 again.

I was going to say, "I wonder what will become of it, but I'm sure it won't sit long."

However I didn't think I even thought about it for more than 10 seconds - I think it's about to get drilled, I'm going to print out an overflow weir, it's going to become my new refugium, and I'm going to increase my system's water volume by 40% in a single stroke. I just have to figure out wall-mounted shelving that will hold the weight - I'd rather have it mounted up above the tank where I can appreciate it and grow some mangroves, rather than hidden away under the tank.

Now what to do with that 3-gallon tank...

 

[siege]

~150 lbs of rock and ~60lbs of black sand came home with me today. As soon as I get mortar/cement in, aquascaping begins! Well, I need to sterilize the rock, first, but... soon!

Huge thanks to @scuba steve for hooking me up with the sand!

 

[york1]

 

[siege]

First of two rounds of rock is bleaching with sodium percarbonate as of tonight - I could only fit about half of what I have in the 44-gallon trash bin (after first sterilizing said bin with actual bleach). Figuring over half of the bin's volume was taken up by rock (leaving approx. 22 gallons of water or so), I used about 2.2 cups (~17 oz.) of percarbonate. I'll let it sit for 24 - 48 hours, dry it in the sun, and then soak again for a few hours with about 500mg of Vitamin C to neutralize the chloramine in the local water.

Photo is about 20m after filling and mixing and it's got a head of foam any bartender would be envious of.

I'm thankful I cannot smell what the rock is cooking, as I'm reasonably sure it would be rather unpleasant.

 

[project1004]

In my previous experience, I really don’t like using used rocks from random persons tank.

But. When I did use them, instead of bleaching, I’ll cook them. Outside of course.

I did this for both old rocks and matrix media with good results.

Currently, you are using bleach. There are two types of bleaching. You are using the percarbonate to remove oxygen from the surface of the rocks. And you will use the vitamin C to put the oxygen back into the rock which neutralizes the bleach. It’s probably better to use sodium perborate or oxygen bleach to neutralize the rock than vitamin C.

Consider cooking the rock to remove all the DOC from the surface. Let dry and it’s brand new dry rock. Well, almost.

 

[siege]

In my previous experience, I really don’t like using used rocks from random persons tank.

But. When I did use them, instead of bleaching, I’ll cook them. Outside of course.

I did this for both old rocks and matrix media with good results.

Currently, you are using bleach. There are two types of bleaching. You are using the percarbonate to remove oxygen from the surface of the rocks. And you will use the vitamin C to put the oxygen back into the rock which neutralizes the bleach. It’s probably better to use sodium perborate or oxygen bleach to neutralize the rock than vitamin C.

Consider cooking the rock to remove all the DOC from the surface. Let dry and it’s brand new dry rock. Well, almost.

Thank you for your input! I really appreciate hearing from someone with more experience.

I too am hesitant about using rock and whatnot from elsewhere, given what might hitch in on it that I don't want in the tank. I want all the beneficial biodiversity I can get, but I'll pass Fortunately, this rock has been sitting out for some time, it came from a 220g whose back glass cracked and drained the tank, not a "crashed" system, fortunately, but I'm still not willing to take chances. Once I'm done with the cooking and drying phase, I'm going to be taking a hammer and chisel to it to break into smaller pieces and build an HNSA aquascape, so it will be well washed, sterilized, dried and picked over carefully before it ever goes in my tank.

I just want to make sure I’m understanding correctly though - it seems like what you’re describing and what I’m doing might actually be the same thing? Sodium percarbonate, as I understand it, is what’s often referred to as 'oxygen bleach,' and when it dissolves in water, it releases hydrogen peroxide and soda ash. That’s what I’m using to clean the rock in this case.

As for the Vitamin C, I’m using it specifically because ascorbic acid is shown to neutralize Cl2 and NH2Cl in the tap water I used from the outdoor spigot (especially since we have NH2Cl where I live, which won't off-gas over time like Cl2 does), rather than to directly 're-oxygenate' the rock, mainly because I couldn't see making and dumping 40+ gallons of RODI water for this purpose - it's a trick I picked up from Father Fish. Does that line up with your process, or is there something I might be missing? Always happy to learn, especially from someone with firsthand experience!

 

[project1004]

Yep you are right. I was confused with “bi”percabonate and percarbonate. I checked and percabonate and perborate are the same thing. So you are right. You are using the “oxygen” bleach instead of “chlorine” bleach which do not need to be neutralized. Sorry.


I don’t know how you use the vitamin c but I do think our reef tank is racking of vitamins but are usually full of minerals. So I do add vitamins to my reef tank. Granted some says feeding is enough.

Edit: so you are basically adding tons of oxygen onto the surface of the rock to alter the rock surface. It also dissolves some DOC on the surface but the organic are still there. It’s just been altered from oxygen being added. You will probably want to take extra step to clean the rock.

 

[siege]

Yeppers, I've already sprayed it all down, and will absolutely be scrubbing the rock well as it comes out of the "bleach bath" to get off as much detritus as possible. I'll dry in the sun (the UV will interact with the hydrogen peroxide and accelerate bleaching significantly), rinse with treated water, dry again, and then break it apart for aquascaping. Once that's complete, I'll cure the assembled aquascape in RO/DI water for a few days prior to adding to the tank. Ugh, I still need to order a pressure booster for the RO/DI system: note to self.

Ascorbic Acid (Vit. C) is dosed at 10mg per gallon of water to be treated, or thereabouts. When reacting with Cl2 or NH2Cl, it undergoes a redox reaction and is turned into dehydroascorbic acid and hydrochloric acid. Dehydroascorbic acid is functionally inert, having oxidized into that state. Hydrochloric acid completely dissociates into hydrogen ions and chloride ions in water, and owing to the presence of soda ash that results as the sodium percarbonate breaks down, we get the following:

HCl+NaHCO3→NaCl+H2O+CO2

I.e., sodium chloride (table salt), water, and CO2. It will cause a slight pH dip in this initial bath as CO2 is released and off-gasses, but especially after being rinsed, will have no effect on the tank.