Reefkeeper 2 questions...sorta urgent.

[jennm]

I have a new client with an RK2. I'm not really too familiar with this device.

He called me this evening, it seems that the power controller has quit working. I was able to walk him through re-routing the pump and lights to a live outlet for the night but I am going to go and have a look tomorrow morning.

I've looked over the online manual for the device, it appears there is a fuse in the power controller. It's possible this has blown. Does anybody have experience with this?

The client does not live in this house (where the tank is) full time, he was there Sunday, and went by there tonight to find everything off... we don't know how long but the fish are still swimming... I offered to go tonight but he said the AM would be fine. Thankfully the tank is not heavily stocked yet...he bought the house recently with the tank in it, up and running - we've only been out once to have a look at it, and haven't even started servicing it yet - we'd planned to go this weekend to do some preliminary work on it - the water quality is bad (nitrate/phosphate) so we'll need to get the water in shape before we do much with it.

I'm just trying to educate myself a bit about this particular device before I attempt to diagnose the problem with the power controller.

If it's a fuse - do I need to get one from DA or is it something I might find at Radio Shack?

OR if you have experienced a failure with the power controller, how did you resolve it?

We suspect that there may have been a power surge or outage during the recent storms this week, which may have caused the power controller to fail, but that we might never know.

Any help/info would be appreciated

Jenn

 

[fncracing]

be sure to check the GFCI if there is one which there should be on any tank

 

[jennm]

Thanks

I think I just answered one of my own questions - in the manual under troubleshooting it does list the type of fuse and that they can be had at Radio Shack.

At this point I'm inclined to think that's what it is... I may pick up a fuse before I head to the client's.

Yes there should be a GFCI but I'm not sure if there is - we didn't do the initial installation. I've only seen the tank once so far - that was a week and a half ago... figures that just before we're about to start servicing it, something blows up

Jenn

 

[glxtrix]

You can get the fuses at RS or walmart even if needed.

 

[jennm]

Well I went to check on the tank this morning... the water was cold (chiller was plugged in without a thermostat since the RK2 was out)... some casualties, some survivors.

Since everything was re-routed OFF of the RK2, I took it off and brought it back to the shop. I looked at the fuse but I can't tell yet if it's blown because it's wrapped in white paper. I'll get another fuse and see if that corrects the problem.

The good news is that there were powerheads in the main tank that were NOT routed through the RK2 so there wasn't a complete shutdown of flow.

We've got some work to do though...

Jenn

 

[jennm]

I'm sorta kinda talking to myself here but for the benefit of anyone who might read this while researching the same problem, it was a fuse. $2.99 for a 4-pack of fuses at Radio Shack. Popped in a new fuse, plugged it in, and it fired up.

Word to the wise - have a spare fuse or fuses on hand and save yourself some aggro.

Jenn

 

[strangepod]

good tip. I have not had this problem with mine, but will keep it in mind. Of course most of the load on mine is controlled remotely through the RK2.

 

[jennm]

Not sure I follow you, strangpod...

The problem was with the power controller (where other devices are plugged into, which are controlled by the RK2. I don't yet know *why* the fuse blew, but I've got a theory. When the fuse blew it switched everything off including the remote display - no power to anything.

We *think* it may have been because of the storms earlier in the week. The client wasn't there so he's not sure if the power went off during those storms (but it did go off and on at his other residence). Regardless, he has a generator at the house that kicks on when the power goes out. IF there was a power surge, either off the grid, or if the generator fired up, that could have blown the fuse.

Going forward, we'll have the RK2 routed through another surge protector and hopefully this prevents the problem from happening again.

I'm trying to figure out if this unit is capable of having an interface that we can set up where it is connected to an internet-connected PC or laptop so we can monitor it in real time, or at least have it alert us remotely (text or email or something) in case there's a problem. Of course if the unit shuts off that won't help but if we can monitor it in real time from a third location, if it does shut off we'll know there's a problem by virtue of the fact that it's not reporting.

Jenn

 

[jennm]

Again, posting here more for informational purposes.

After doing some more online research on this device, I'm thinking it may have been over-loaded in the first place. I found a thread in another forum where an individual had fuses blowing, and when he itemized all that was connected to it, a rep from DA responded pointing out that the device was over the 1800 Watt limit, and that on one channel there should not be more than 6 amps.

We didn't set up this device but I know that the metal halides (3 x 250 I think) were on one channel. Not sure how many amps but there's nearly half the total watts allowable for the device. The main return pump was on it (will have to check the draw on it) along with a HUGE chiller, and what I believe is a 300-watt heater. Even without knowing all of the wattage/amperage for all of those devices, it stands to reason that it may have been overloaded. That would certainly cause a fuse to blow. The skimmer was on there too...

Methinks we should either get an expansion module for it, OR not have all the devices running through it.

Learning lots here today...

Jenn

 

[strangepod]

JennM;587368 wrote: Again, posting here more for informational purposes.

After doing some more online research on this device, I'm thinking it may have been over-loaded in the first place. I found a thread in another forum where an individual had fuses blowing, and when he itemized all that was connected to it, a rep from DA responded pointing out that the device was over the 1800 Watt limit, and that on one channel there should not be more than 6 amps.

We didn't set up this device but I know that the metal halides (3 x 250 I think) were on one channel. Not sure how many amps but there's nearly half the total watts allowable for the device. The main return pump was on it (will have to check the draw on it) along with a HUGE chiller, and what I believe is a 300-watt heater. Even without knowing all of the wattage/amperage for all of those devices, it stands to reason that it may have been overloaded. That would certainly cause a fuse to blow. The skimmer was on there too...

Methinks we should either get an expansion module for it, OR not have all the devices running through it.

Learning lots here today...

Jenn

Just what I thought. what I mean is my MH are switched on by a small 12 transformer that in turn kicks in a relay that draws power outside the RK. Thus the only power that the RK sees on that channel (8 in my set up) is a small power 'wall wart' transformer. Also this works perfect since the ballast for my MH are in another part of the house. As far as looking at the stats online, there was a link that I found (don't have it with me right now) were someone did this on a RK2, using a off the shelf wireless transceiver (although they are not cheap (150-200 bucks). My heaters are the only heavy load on my RK right now.

Since we are on the subject I have noticed that if I don't have channel 7 turned on (don't need anything plugged into it) my lights (channel 8) may or may not turn off. If I leave it on (channel 7) all is well. strange..

John

 

[jennm]

It may be time to have this customer upgrade to a newer controller with more features. The more I read about this, the more I think he might want something with more capabilities.

Since this tank is not looked at/seen to on a daily basis, remote monitoring may be prudent.

Heck I'm just proud of myself that I figured out what's wrong with it. I'm not terribly mechanically or technologically inclined. Customer was ready to throw away the DC8... at least for the time being the $2.99 fix (with 3 spare fuses) and changing the configuration and taking some of the devices off it that don't need to be on it, seems the right choice for the short term.

Jenn

 

[gnashty]

with the NET module you will be able to access parameters from your shop. someday you will be able to control it from your shop...

 

[strangepod]

gnashty;587415 wrote: with the NET module you will be able to access parameters from your shop. someday you will be able to control it from your shop...

I have been told that this will not work with the RK2.

 

[jennm]

I think strangpod is right - the stuff I found online said it wasn't compatible with that model. Might be time for an upgrade.

The customer doesn't have a reactor or anything, the thing will only for temp monitoring etc. He doesn't even have a pH probe on it (yet... we'll see to that). It would be nice to be able to keep tabs on it remotely and get notifications if the parameters vary outside designated values, especially since the client isn't there for much of the time.

Jenn

 

[fncracing]

you can also just add the ES module to the system it is designed for MH and Chillers to be run with the Reefkeeper systems it adds another 15a circut to the system without affecting the controller

 

[fncracing]

fncracing;587428 wrote: you can also just add the ES module to the system it is designed for MH and Chillers to be run with the Reefkeeper systems it adds another 15a circut to the system without affecting the controller

here is a link to it

 

[strangepod]

JennM;587422 wrote: I think strangpod is right - the stuff I found online said it wasn't compatible with that model. Might be time for an upgrade.

The customer doesn't have a reactor or anything, the thing will only for temp monitoring etc. He doesn't even have a pH probe on it (yet... we'll see to that). It would be nice to be able to keep tabs on it remotely and get notifications if the parameters vary outside designated values, especially since the client isn't there for much of the time.

Jenn

The 'new' elite system you can also monitor salinity, now that would be handy. I have a ph probe on mine but have never had any issues with ph in my system.