Ok, So I'm considering buying a 175 acrylic. Can get a good deal on it, but he says it has to be refused at the seam. What is involved in this? Do I just use weld on? Has anyone done this? I am a little scared of doing it myself and having it break after I get water in. Any feedback is appreciated.
refusing acrylic tank at the seams
- Thread starter llewella
- Start date
Same here. I'd consider it as a sump maybe (less pressure due to only being partially filled), but for a DT I would pass unless you are very confident in your repair skills (or know someone who can do it for you). Even then, ya gotta think about 175g of water in the floor... that's no small issue.
skriz
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 4,192
- Reaction score
- 142
There are a couple of issues:
1. The original solvent or work was bad
2. The design is bad (too thin, inadequate bracing, etc.)
If it's number 2, you'll never fix the tank.
If it's number 1, it's possible.
If it's either number 1 or 2, why risk it?
1. The original solvent or work was bad
2. The design is bad (too thin, inadequate bracing, etc.)
If it's number 2, you'll never fix the tank.
If it's number 1, it's possible.
If it's either number 1 or 2, why risk it?
- Messages
- 1,547
- Reaction score
- 137
Even if this thing was free, why would you want to risk coming home to all your livestock on the floor? In the big picture of a tank setup, the cost of the actual tank is minor compared to the investment in other equipment and livestock. Plus for such a small tank, why go acrylic?
- Messages
- 5,121
- Reaction score
- 7
I have never had success regluing a preglued seam without taking the seam apart and milling the joint to new condition. There does exist a two part polymer I have used on 150 gallon + that could repair the seam but would be cost prohibitive.
Similar threads
