RO/DI masters help!

[billyocean]

Ok, bought the SeaChem RO/DI unit from auction. Unit definitely works but need to pump up production. I have a tds meter on the way as well as a carbon block in case I need one..so i don't quite know those #s yet. It came with 1 micron(sediment) 1st stage, 5 micron (sediment) 2nd stage, DI third stage. Tried it outside yesterday and pressure was low (12psi) and production was minuscule...it was 40 degrees outside..lol. Went to the depot and bought a sink adapter for the bathroom, in which my 12 psi outside reading went to over 30 due to heat change I assume. Also production went up for RO/DI. I know there is at least 60-70 psi running through my house. Question is, will a flow restrictor 800 ml barrel style on the waste line (100 GPD) help my pressure rise and output increase? Do not think i have the 80-100 psi that some have to add a 2nd membrane w/o a booster pump. Any advice is much appreciated!
Thanks
Ryan.

Btw Jeff was awesome and it was a pleasure meeting him!

 

[kzoo]

Flow restrictors are matched with the ro membrane , boost pump may be the only way to make production go up.

 

[billyocean]

So if i added a flow restrictor to the waste line, even though i only have one RO membrane..would it not make a difference? If I plug the waste water line with my finger for a second it immediately shoots up to over 60 psi. This was my thinking on restricting a little bit of waste water with the restrictor. any thoughts?

 

[ricky5415]

Hard to help without pics of the setup. Can u post a few?

 

[billyocean]

standard 4 stage ro/di. sediment filter, carbon block(5micron sediment in 2nd stage now), DI canister 4th stage with RO on top of the entire setup. Only looking to add a flow restrictor on the waste line to boost pressure within the RO and didn't know if that would help. I have adjusted my Pressure valve coming into the house and even tested the hose bib that T's off of the line for the valve that runs into my house (only to find 2 more psi) anyways. point is I'm running max 64 psi INTO the RO/DI. comes out just above 30. Have a friend that plumbs that might know a way to boost pressure to house for $50 rather than buy a booster. The manual says you want 40-60 psi at home for max efficiency for ro/di...i have more..yet still lackluster. Just wanted to know if adding the restrictor would hurt the cartridges..i know it will boost my psi on the rodi

 

[kzoo]

billyOcean;1110478 wrote: So if i added a flow restrictor to the waste line, even though i only have one RO membrane..would it not make a difference? If I plug the waste water line with my finger for a second it immediately shoots up to over 60 psi. This was my thinking on restricting a little bit of waste water with the restrictor. any thoughts?

Do you not have a flow restrictor in the line already? If your trying to add more than is needed you will cause waste water to backup in to the filters.

Here is a diagram of the system
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<legend> Attached files </legend>

 

[ricky5415]

Flow restrictor is a must have. Also psi need to be in 65-80 ideally. Keep in mind that as the pre filter + carbon black get clogged, pressure/psi will drop greatly

 

[billyocean]

thanks ricky. have a bead on booster pump to at least help for a future 2nd RO. Great Diagram!

 

[billyocean]

have the check but no flow restrictor on the waste

 

[Adam]

Billy, The unit you got should have had a 800ml restrictor on the waste line out of the RO housing to match the 100gpd membrane. Without one the RO membrane will not function. The pressure reading is after the the 2nd stage and before the RO. From new filters when that pressure drops 10psi while running it's time to change the sediment filter and possibly the carbon too. The carbon depends on how much water you've run through the system.

The order of the filters is:
1. Sediment (1 or 5 micron)
2. Carbon (1 or 5 micron)
3. RO
4. DI

In a 4 stage system I'd go 5 micron sediment filter unless you get a good one. The reason is it won't clog as fast. http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/ge-rosave-z-depth-sediment-filter.html">Here</a> is a good one . And a good 1 micron carbon.

Here is a link to the system you got and on the bottom left of the page is a link to download the instructions. [IMG]http://www.seachem.com/pinnacle-plus.php">http://www.seachem.com/pinnacle-plus.php</a>

 

[enderg60]

Ummm....there should be no point anywhere in your house with less than 40 psi. If you are getting 30 at a sink and 12 anywhere else you have a clog in your piping somewhere.

Check your pressure regulator and fix that problem first.

 

[Adam]

I forgot to add that as well. 12psi outside means there's something wrong. Either the valve inside the house that feeds that spigot is partially closed or there's a clog. The temp outside has no bearing in the psi. When you connect to a sink you need to be sure all of the screens for aeration are removed too. Lastly if those screens are removed and you're seeing 30psi it's likely because there's no flow restrictor in the waste line. Do not try making anymore water until one is installed in the correct direction. If there's no flow restrictor installed like you said you're basically back washing the RO membrane the whole time and it will not function. This could be why you're seeing 30psi in the house as it will rise with the restrictor installed.

*Edit* I just looked at the instructions and this unit doesn't come with a back flush valve. They are the only ones I've seen this from and companies that are in the business to selling these units all have them. Unless these other companies are trying to make more money off of us by adding one and telling to use it after making water so it will extent the life of the ro membrane, when in reality it's killing the membrane with "Scale". In the end I'm not sure I buy this. Maybe @JennM can shed some light on that one.

 

[billyocean]

the outside test was done in 40 degree weather with a 40' water hose attached to the bid to run up to my porch. hence, i believe that is what is dropping pressure "outside". I have no flow restrictor on the waste line. I just bought a 100gpd flow restrictor from BRS to help add to my RO/DI pressure. as stated earlier, when i put my finger over the waste line..even barely, it acts as a flow restrictor..and my pressure shoots up dramatically. My thought process is the flow restrictor on the waste line will slow the pass through but not enough to cause any premature usage of the membranes...only to raise pressure and increase quantity of the good water. every rodi i have seen has this on the waste..mine came with a "check valve" from the RO to the DI but no restrictor on the waste. hope that makes sense

 

[billyocean]

just didn't see 62-64 psi in house dropping to 30 psi after the RO on the "T" the runs to the pressure gauge and DI membrane.

 

[billyocean]

if i run directly to the pressure gauge..64psi

 

[Adam]

http://www.homedepot.com/p/3-in-P2A-Water-Pressure-Gauge-P2A/100575619">This</a> will help if you're going to use it outside again.
With an adapter you can check the sinks in your house too.

 

[billyocean]

Ro fell over and cracked the pressure gauge..lol. it doesn't end. Just got a TDS meter and a flow restrictor for waste line. Don't know the pressure right now but its running about 2.5 or so waste to 1 RO/DI so it seems quite efficient for the moment. TDS reads 3 before DI and 0 After. Not even running a CB right now...just 1 mic sediment 1st stage and 5 mic sed 2nd stage before RO. sweet.

 

[bcavalli]

Im glad you got it setup and running. It never much fun setting one up for the first time.

 

[Adam]

billyOcean;1110735 wrote: Ro fell over and cracked the pressure gauge..lol. it doesn't end. Just got a TDS meter and a flow restrictor for waste line. Don't know the pressure right now but its running about 2.5 or so waste to 1 RO/DI so it seems quite efficient for the moment. TDS reads 3 before DI and 0 After. Not even running a CB right now...just 1 mic sediment 1st stage and 5 mic sed 2nd stage before RO. sweet.

The CB is actually more important than the SB. You'd be better off running 2 CB's. Also you want the larger block 1st not 2nd. 5mic SB 1st then 1 mic CB.

The higher the tds is before the DI the faster you'll go through the DI resin. From a cost stand point DI$&lt;CB$

 

[billyocean]

with this setup the TDS has risen to 5ppm before DI since i started...will probably just introduce the carbon block instead of the 5 mic sediment. flow is gtg though.