RO/DI question

[y-not]

Hey Folks,

I've recent installed a Bulk Reef Supply, RODI system.
The first installation involved hooking up the supply line to a copper line that had right at 50 PSI.
But...by the time it to the system, the pressure was closer to 45 PSI.

So...I decided to connect it to a 90 PSI copper line.

No problems with that.

Now I've got all the PSI supply that the RODI system needs and it's filling my FW Brute in a timely manner.

Now to my question, since hooking it to the higher pressure side, I can see that it's running water out of the waste water side, all of the time. Even if the FW float is in the off position.

Is this normal? If so, is there a way to have it auto stop when my FW container is filled?

Otherwise, it's wasting water ALL of the time. Even when I do not need FW.

 

[fredfish]

Sounds like the float valve is stopping the water flow where the ro/di water is exiting after the filter system. Water should be shut off before it enters the filter system.

 

[ff337]

Do you have the auto shutoff valve installed correctly? And is the flush kit valve shut off.

 

[y-not]

FF337;885904 wrote: Do you have the auto shutoff valve installed correctly? And is the flush kit valve shut off.

Beats me.
The RODI I have is the BRS 6 Stage Chloramines DELUXE RO/DI System - 75GPD

It came in two parts.
I only guessed that I correctly connected the second part to the first part.

alt="" />
I would not doubt that I've screwed the pooch and have something backwards.
It would not be the first time I've done something like that in the past.

 

[ff337]

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/auto-shut-off-kit-for-reverse-osmosis-systems.html">http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/auto-shut-off-kit-for-reverse-osmosis-systems.html</a>

The white valve in the left corner the the auto shut off valve.

Edit: Also make sure your using the correct line and not the waste line.

Pretty simple to understand, but can be intimidating at first.

 

[y-not]

FF337;885906 wrote: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/auto-shut-off-kit-for-reverse-osmosis-systems.html">http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/auto-shut-off-kit-for-reverse-osmosis-systems.html</a>

The white valve in the left corner the the auto shut off valve.

Edit: Also make sure your using the correct line and not the waste line.

Pretty simple to understand, but can be intimidating at first.[/QUOTE]


Let me snap a few photos of how it's set up now.
I suspect that it may be as simple as not having a valve on or off.

I could be flushing the system...I just do not know.
I know that it's not brain surgery but...having ZERO experience with this is not helping matters.

I'll be back shortly.

 

[ff337]

The flush valve should be in the off position, perpendicular to the assembly. If it is inline, just turn it 90*. It will take a few minutes for the pressure to build up to stop the flow.

The flow will only stop if no leaks and all orifices are closed. If the water is not full in the containers, you can shut the float by pulling up on it. Watch the pressure gauge, it should increase slowly until it stops.

When it shuts off, you should hear it stop and possibly a thump as the diaphragm seats.

 

[y-not]

Okay, here's what I've got as well as the positioning of valves.

Supply:

alt="" />

Top View:

alt="" />

Another Top view:

alt="" />

Top Valve:

alt="" />

From the first to the second set of canisters:

alt="" />

In to the second set of canisters

alt="" />

RODI Second Canister out:

alt="" />

Incoming TDS:

alt="" />

Out going TDS:

alt="" />

PSI:

alt="" />

Center Valve:

alt="" />

Clear as mud yet?

 

[ff337]

Top view with the blue valve, 3rd picture down. Turn that valve 90*, take 2 aspirin and call me in the morning.

 

[y-not]

FF337;885940 wrote: Top view with the blue valve, 3rd picture down. Turn that valve 90*, take 2 aspirin and call me in the morning.

I'm already ahead of you on the aspirin. I'll try turning the valve and see.

 

[ff337]

That valve is the flush valve. Occasionally, you want to turn that valve on to flush the debris from the membrane. I do mine after every water change. 1-2 weeks. For about 5-10 minutes. Normally as long as it takes to do a 30 gallon water change.

Edit: you can check the success by shutting off the float switch like I said before. it should take a few minutes and the pressure should rise causing the diaphragm to activate. If any leaks are in the system it will not build up enough pressure to hold, causing the exhaust/dirty/waste water to continue to leak.

ALSO, double check to make sure your float valve is in the correct position. I should be vertical. As in, the float bobber should go straight down when emptied, and straight up when full, it should not be angled sideways. If it is angled, correct it. This will cause the float not to seal and your reservoir to overflow.

 

[y-not]

Okay...
I did that.
The PSI jumped up to almost 100 and now when I lift the shut-off float in my FW container, the flow stops.

Canister 1 & 2 fill up rather quickly. Then the water shuts off and my PSI gauge spikes all the way back to the little peg that's below the 0.

Is this normal?

And what was I doing with the blue valve while it was in line with the water lines?

 

[ff337]

Yes that is normal. The blue valve is the flush kit, that flushed any debris from the membrane. It is supposed to increase the life of the membrane. You perform that periodically. More frequently if you need water more frequently and less often if you need it less. I do it out of habit.

 

[y-not]

FF337;885946 wrote: Yes that is normal. The blue valve is the flush kit, that flushed any debris from the membrane. It is supposed to increase the life of the membrane. You perform that periodically. More frequently if you need water more frequently and less often if you need it less. I do it out of habit.

Cool!

So to confirm, the PSI gauge being pegged to the backside of the zero (well beyond 100 PSI) is normal. Right?

Edit: Oh...one more thing...what was going into my FW container all of this time?

Should I dump it and start over?
There's only, maybe, 10 gallons in it right now.

 

[ff337]

PSI pegged out is fine. If you push the float valve down or when the water level goes down it will release the pressure.

When the pressure builds up, it activates the auto shut off valve. This is what causes your waste line to stop flowing, when your float switch is shut off from the reservoir being full. When the pressure is released, the water fills your fw reservoir and the waste line will resume flowing into your drain. Rinse, repeat. Hence the purpose Automatic Shut off valve.

The water in your reservoir now should test zero tds. I say this in confidence because I have too left that valve on by mistake and tested the water, used the water with no ill effects. It should be pure because that water still has to go through the membrane and all filters before it exits.

Taste it and find out....

 

[y-not]

FF337;885949 wrote: Taste it and find out....

I gave some to the dog.
I seems </em>to be okay.

I'm going to dump the little I've collected thus far and start over.

It's a long story but I've had to replace some copper plumbing and a few other things recently and would like to start from scratch with fresh water.

Thanks a million for your assistance!

 

[ff337]

Better safe than sorry.

 

[y-not]

Hey, I'm tickled stupid by the fact that I do not have to run to the LFS to get water every week.
I've no problem using RODI water to rinse buckets and such now.

Before I was using tap water and I just made sure that it was bone dry before using again.
Once I get everything in place, I'll put up some complete photos of the chiller (moved into the basement), the RODI set up and, with a little luck, the SW filling set up.

 

[ff337]

Great investment. We all like pictures.

 

[w_hartyjr]

Y-Not;885951 wrote: I gave some to the dog.
I seems </em>to be okay.

I'm going to dump the little I've collected thus far and start over.

It's a long story but I've had to replace some copper plumbing and a few other things recently and would like to start from scratch with fresh water.

Thanks a million for your assistance!

I like the way you tested it on the dog. good thinking there. Lol. Good luck