RO filters
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it is a Kent brand:
You do need to match the flow restrictor with the size of the membrane. A John Guest fitting won't substitute for this.
Wherever you buy the membrane, they should also sell the flow restrictors. Just get both and then there's no guesswork.
That unit has no DI... just RO.
Jenn
Wherever you buy the membrane, they should also sell the flow restrictors. Just get both and then there's no guesswork.
That unit has no DI... just RO.
Jenn
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If you have a TDS meter I have a plastic needle valve you can install instead and then you can fine tune the flow for optimum production.
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Feel free to get us your email address and we can send you a set of instructions for one of our RO systems that has a similar configuration.
If you are on typical city water, and don't have chloramines, I'd recommend a 1 micron sediment filter and a 0.5 micron carbon block.
If you bought the system used, would be a good idea to sanitize it. Be happy to send you instructions for that as well.
Russ
If you are on typical city water, and don't have chloramines, I'd recommend a 1 micron sediment filter and a 0.5 micron carbon block.
If you bought the system used, would be a good idea to sanitize it. Be happy to send you instructions for that as well.
Russ
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Does anyone know the difference with just DI verses a RODI system?
Yes. A DI system only deionizes the water. There is no waste water with a DI system. With an RO system, the water is forced through a reverse-osmosis membrane, drop by drop, which is more effective in stripping out impurities.
Typically an RO unit generates 3-4 gallons of waste water, per gallon of product (good) water.
A DI unit wastes nothing, but sacrifices a bit on the purity of the water. If the source water has a low TDS you should get decent results with one.
I have one here that I loan out to people moving a tank or setting up a new one. It's faster than RO or RO/DI and better than using dechlorinated tap water.
An RO/DI does both - prefilters the water (sediment/carbon) then through the RO membrane, and finally through a DI cartridge. You'll get the best results with a combination RO/DI but it does waste water.
Hope this helps,
Jenn
Typically an RO unit generates 3-4 gallons of waste water, per gallon of product (good) water.
A DI unit wastes nothing, but sacrifices a bit on the purity of the water. If the source water has a low TDS you should get decent results with one.
I have one here that I loan out to people moving a tank or setting up a new one. It's faster than RO or RO/DI and better than using dechlorinated tap water.
An RO/DI does both - prefilters the water (sediment/carbon) then through the RO membrane, and finally through a DI cartridge. You'll get the best results with a combination RO/DI but it does waste water.
Hope this helps,
Jenn
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Couldn't of asked for a better explanation jenn. One more question would it run threw a filter sock or some
thing else, thank you.
thing else, thank you.
RO and RO/DI units typically have a sediment filter, 1 Micron or 5 Microns. The DI I have (Kent Deion 2000) has one carbon block filter and 2 DI chambers, no micron. I suppose one could add on a sediment prefilter if they wished.
On our RO/DI at the shop, for a while we ran a second 1 Micron prefilter because we were going through a lot of cartridges - the water was kind of "muddy" coming in. That seems to have resolve so we are back to one. Our incoming TDS is about 35 right now (when I checked this morning). I've seen it as high as 272 and it will change depending on a variety of factors.
On a RO/DI, or RO, keeping that sediment filter changed out regularly, along with the carbon block, can help prolong the life of the membrane (the expensive part!) The more stuff that gets pulled out before it gets to the membrane, the better. I like clear canisters on my RO/DI so I can *see* the sediment filter without opening the unit up. When it starts looking dingy, we change it.
Jenn
On our RO/DI at the shop, for a while we ran a second 1 Micron prefilter because we were going through a lot of cartridges - the water was kind of "muddy" coming in. That seems to have resolve so we are back to one. Our incoming TDS is about 35 right now (when I checked this morning). I've seen it as high as 272 and it will change depending on a variety of factors.
On a RO/DI, or RO, keeping that sediment filter changed out regularly, along with the carbon block, can help prolong the life of the membrane (the expensive part!) The more stuff that gets pulled out before it gets to the membrane, the better. I like clear canisters on my RO/DI so I can *see* the sediment filter without opening the unit up. When it starts looking dingy, we change it.
Jenn
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