Salt mixing station

Another option to consider is running a pvc pipe from the highest point of the water in the upper barrel down to the sump. Then run the tubing from the ato pump to the top of the pipe. This will create a siphon break above the water level of the upper barrel.
 
Anyone have any recommendations for a float valve? The ones I've had are pretty lame. I saw a Coralife and an Eshopps at my LFS... both look pretty good, but both are pricey. Need something that can cut off my RODI with the booster pump running...
So, I use a BRS float valve as a redundant backup just in case. I use a solenoid valve from Auto Aqua specific for RoDI containers which is the main first line of defense to prevent overfilling. I also use a booster pump from Aquatic Life. It detects pressures and works in tandem to cut off when the solenoid is closed. The setup works well so far and I have not had any issues overfilling.
 
Thank you all for always being so gentle when pointing out what an Idiot I'm being : )

Of course a siphon can't cross an air gap - which is why none of my tubes ever penetrates the surface. Don't know why I went there!

And of course what matters isn't the height of the pump, but the height of the water in the reservoir vs the sump. Duh. The water level in the reservoir will always be higher than that of the sump, no matter how I stack things (unless I dig a sub-basement : ) So, yes, of course, there's no advantage to putting the ATO pump lower than / external to the reservoir. Really dumb. I would have caught this eventually, but earlier is always better - thank you!

I am using the Ice Cap RODI that already has an onboard booster pump, with auto-shutoff if the flow is cut (and also a leak detector). The challenge has been finding a float switch that can choke down the pressure from the RODI without leaking. If it leaks, it doesn't cut off the RODI. I was definitely wanting to put a solenoid and float switch on the RODI feed to the reservoir. I was also thinking about a solenoid between the pump and sump, but dumping the pump output into an open pipe is much more reliable / cost effective!!

@sharis100 - do you think the BRS float switch is strong enough? I am assuming that your RODI puts out a lot more pressure than mine, but I've had such bad luck with floats so far... Are you talking about this one: https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/ro-float-valve.html ?

Thanks again!

--Ron
 
Thank you all for always being so gentle when pointing out what an Idiot I'm being : )

Of course a siphon can't cross an air gap - which is why none of my tubes ever penetrates the surface. Don't know why I went there!

And of course what matters isn't the height of the pump, but the height of the water in the reservoir vs the sump. Duh. The water level in the reservoir will always be higher than that of the sump, no matter how I stack things (unless I dig a sub-basement : ) So, yes, of course, there's no advantage to putting the ATO pump lower than / external to the reservoir. Really dumb. I would have caught this eventually, but earlier is always better - thank you!

I am using the Ice Cap RODI that already has an onboard booster pump, with auto-shutoff if the flow is cut (and also a leak detector). The challenge has been finding a float switch that can choke down the pressure from the RODI without leaking. If it leaks, it doesn't cut off the RODI. I was definitely wanting to put a solenoid and float switch on the RODI feed to the reservoir. I was also thinking about a solenoid between the pump and sump, but dumping the pump output into an open pipe is much more reliable / cost effective!!

@sharis100 - do you think the BRS float switch is strong enough? I am assuming that your RODI puts out a lot more pressure than mine, but I've had such bad luck with floats so far... Are you talking about this one: https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/ro-float-valve.html ?

Thanks again!

--Ron
Yes that is the one on BRS. For my situation, we run our pressure high with our pump and it has worked. But, I would call BRS customer service and ask for your situation- they are super helpful and if they don’t know the answer they will find someone there who can help- at least in my experience with them.
 
Yes that is the one on BRS. For my situation, we run our pressure high with our pump and it has worked. But, I would call BRS customer service and ask for your situation- they are super helpful and if they don’t know the answer they will find someone there who can help- at least in my experience with them.
Awesome - thank you! Many of these valves look to be the same cheap junk, rebranded, but the BRS unit does appear to be a different / better animal!

--Ron
 
Consider running your ATO tubing to the tank instead of the sump? Works perfect but gives you a couple feet more height.

I currently have 3 of THESE preventing overflows from my RODI. When I make water I fill 3 containers. 2 60 galon barrels plus a 27 gallon tote. Each has one of those float valves and so far I've had zero leaks They hold enough pressure to stop my booster pump.

I also have my entire RODI / water transfer setup being controlled by a smart power strip and Alexa. I can say "Alexa, make water" from anywhere in my house and my RODI booster pump will come on and fill all 3 barrels.

I still plan on adding a powered solenoid so I don't have to manually turn the water supply on and off. I don't really need to today except I don't trust things and I'm worried about a line busting or something silly.
 
Consider running your ATO tubing to the tank instead of the sump? Works perfect but gives you a couple feet more height.

I currently have 3 of THESE preventing overflows from my RODI. When I make water I fill 3 containers. 2 60 galon barrels plus a 27 gallon tote. Each has one of those float valves and so far I've had zero leaks They hold enough pressure to stop my booster pump.

I also have my entire RODI / water transfer setup being controlled by a smart power strip and Alexa. I can say "Alexa, make water" from anywhere in my house and my RODI booster pump will come on and fill all 3 barrels.

I still plan on adding a powered solenoid so I don't have to manually turn the water supply on and off. I don't really need to today except I don't trust things and I'm worried about a line busting or something silly.

Wow - OK! That's a significant savings, and looks suspiciously like the BRS unit : }

My friend, one of your reservoirs is larger than my entire system!! Your setup is awesome! I plan to have a high/lower water level so my RODI isn't running all the time (you once wisely advised me to not run the system in short bursts). I'm thinking I'll have about a 5 gallon delta. If I need to make salt and I'm below the high water mark, I can just bypass the JBJ for 20 minutes and I'll have a full barrel.

Or... I can make it so that my RODI low water mark is always higher than my salt mixing quantity. I only plan to make about 25 gallons of salt at a time, since I don't really want to store salt water more than about 6 weeks. What do you think is the minimum "healthy" amount of RODI water to make at a time? If I keep my high/low delta at 2-3 gallons, then I'll always have more RODI than my standard salt batch size. thoughts?

Sorry to always complicate things! : D

--Ron
 
My friend, one of your reservoirs is larger than my entire system!! Your setup is awesome! I plan to have a high/lower water level so my RODI isn't running all the time (you once wisely advised me to not run the system in short bursts). I'm thinking I'll have about a 5 gallon delta. If I need to make salt and I'm below the high water mark, I can just bypass the JBJ for 20 minutes and I'll have a full barrel.

I use the floats as a backup to solenoids... Redundancy. If a solenoid fails the float should be more than enough to trip the auto shutoff valve on the filter which with then trip the pressure sensor on the booster pump.

I've found that when starting up the RODI, even when not back washing the membrane, there is a several minute burst of high TDS brine that gets forced out. Repetitive cycling of the unit throughout the day will cause you to chew through DI resin. This is just another reason I don't like connecting the RODI directly to my sump for topoff.
 
Small progress made! The base of the stand is assembled. Spent some time trying to figure out the valve construction between the upper and lower barrels. Given my space constraints, it’s a challenge.

had originally intended to add an RODI hose in-line with the pipe that will feed fresh water into the lower mixing barrel. However, that made everything too tall. I hate it, but I’m going to add a second bulkhead in the bottom of the RODI tank for a dedicated hose connection. But I definitely need a way to get fresh water in an ad-hoc way!

yes, I know the uprights are crooked as hades : ) I’m using crap leftover wood since this will be hidden in a utility closet. I promise it will all be closer to square/level/plumb when it’s complete!!

I have my components ready. The main mixing pump is extreme overkill, but as I stated earlier, it’s also a “cold spare” for my display tank. actually, the 2000 you see here is going into the DT and the existing 1500 will become the mixing/spare.

(as always, I’m prepared for the next tank upgrade : ) )

i have about 10 projects going on at once, so this will probably continue to love at a snail’s pace...

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So, progress made! Bench is complete and painted. Would have loved to make it sturdier, but the space is so cramped. This should all be pretty static, so I’m not too worried. Max weight should be under 400 pounds.

would have also loved to put a second coat of paint on it, but I’m needing to make water for a large change right away, so it will have to do as-is.

I’ve also included a photo of the ridiculously tight space I’m installing into. Ugh :/

I plumbed in a supply line with shutoff valve. All of the hard connections have been cemented. So it’s just a matter of assembling everything. Then I’ll need to calibrate fill lines, and flush the system. Then I can make about 30 gallons of salt water, with 30 gallons of RODI in reserve...

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