<span style="font-size: 12px;">This was an Interesting Read on Saltwaterfish.com I copied and pasted instead of Linking just in case it goes away.</span>
Saltwater Fish Don't Get Ich; They Get Crypto
I was talking to a friend the other day, and he told me that he had "ich." In any other context, that would be a baffling statement, but, as a marine aquarist, I knew exactly what he meant, even though he was using the wrong terminology.
Wrong terminology? How so, you ask.
Saltwater Fish Don’t Get “Ich”
Simply stated, marine fishes don’t get ich. The term “ich” refers to the parasite Ichthyophthirius multifilis</em>, which is a freshwater parasite. When marine aquarists speak of “saltwater ich,” they should be saying “crypto,” as the saltwater condition is called cryptocaryonosis, and it is caused by the parasite Cryptocaryon irritans</em>.
Why Do Marine Fish Get Crypto
It is my contention that there is a lot we don’t know about crypto. The one thing I do feel confident saying, however, is that the leading impetus behind a crypto outbreak is stress. Obviously stress in and of itself does not cause crypto, but stress challenges a fish’s immune system, and it is when the fish is in this compromised state that the parasite most easily gains a foothold and an outbreak may ensue.
It doesn’t matter if you bought your new fish at http://www.saltwaterfish.com/">Saltwaterfish.com</a> or your local fish store—that fish may well be stressed, and adding that new fish to your established aquarium may cause your other fishes to become stressed. All this potential stress provides an ideal environment for a crypto outbreak, which is why it is essential to eliminate stress wherever you can. Now rest assured, the majority of first time marine aquarium fish buyers don’t experience a crypto outbreak, but to make your husbandry practices bullet proof, be sure to [IMG]http://www.saltwaterfish.com/">watch</a> the acclimation video on Saltwaterfish.com, take things slowly and do all you can to reduce the stress.
As Scott Hughes, owner of Saltwaterfish.com, says in the acclimation video on the website, a quarantine tank (or simply QT) is “a small investment that pays great returns.” I strongly suggest you have a QT tank and that you quarantine nearly every new fish before adding it to the display tank. Let me repeat that, as there is no more important single piece of advice when it comes to avoiding cryptocaryonosis: [B]ALMOST EVERY NEW FISH SHOULD BE QUARANTINED BEFORE BEING ADDED TO YOUR DISPLAY TANK[/B]. As you will hear every experienced hobbyist reiterate until they are blue in the face, patience is the key in the hobby. Don’t rush anything.
[B]The Life Cycle of [I]Cryptocaryon irritans</em>[/B]
Let's get back to crypto itself, however. A fish infested with [I]Cryptocaryon irritans</em> is sometimes said to be suffering from “white spot disease” because this is how the parasite is most observable to the aquarist. The so-called white spots are actually the trophant phase of the parasite’s life cycle. The trophant phase is where the parasite is attached to the fish (its host) and feeding. After a period of days (up to one week), the parasite drops off the fish and becomes free-swimming. It then divides (the tomant stage) and can lay dormant as cysts for nearly a month (depending on temperature) before the cysts break apart and the parasite, now in the tomite stage, seeks out a host. We are now back to the trophant phase and “white spot disease.”
Did I lose you? As I explained this to my friend, his eyes glazed over—he just wanted to save his fish, after all. I know. I know. But it is essential to understand how [I]Cryptocaryon irritans</em> works if you are going to successfully eradicate it from your system, and that is the goal, correct? So let’s now talk about getting rid of a crypto outbreak.
[B]Treatment[/B]
Above I outlined the three life stages of [I]Cryptocaryon irritans</em>. They are:
<ol>
<li>Trophant (up to one week)</li>
<li>Tomant (up to one month)</li>
<li>Tomite (one or two days)</li>
</ol> It is important to understand that it is only during the tomite phase that the common treatments for crypto are effective, and this phase, as mentioned above, lasts only a day or two.
[B]Copper[/B]
Most commonly copper is used to treat crypto, and because copper is lethal to almost all invertebrates, the treatment usually happens in a separate hospital tank. Because the life cycle of the parasite can be as long as a month, with only a small one to two day window, when treatment is truly effective, the fishes must be kept in the medicated hospital tank for four weeks. During this time, the display tank must have no fishes in it so that any tomites that hatch will not find a host.
Unfortunately copper, despite its effectiveness, is known to have long-term negative effects on certain fishes. This has led some aquarists to seek alternatives to copper treatment, and there are several.
[B]Hyposalinity[/B]
Hyposalinity (again in a hospital tank, as it will harm or kill inverts) is one possible alternative to copper, especially if combined with dips (see below). Effective hyposaline conditions require the specific gravity to be around 1.010. It is recommended to use hyposalinity in conjunction with copper, if copper is the treatment employed.
[B]Dips[/B]
Using freshwater dips dosed with formalin and malachite green for a period of three to four weeks can be effective, especially when the water in the hospital tank is changed out (otherwise reinfestation may occur). In my opinion, the dips can be as effective as treating the hospital tank with formalin and malachite green, and you run less risk of endangering the infested fish’s immune system. Having said that, some aquarists forgo the dips and simply treat the hospital tank with formalin and malachite green. Whichever you choose, follow the directions or seek out the advice of an advanced aquarist.
[B]Chloroquine Phosphate[/B]
Using chloroquine phosphate to treat crypto is a relatively new protocol with which I do not have first-hand experience, but I have heard very good things. Bob Goemans and Lance Ichinotsubo discuss this treatment in their book [I]The Marine Fish Health & Feeding Handbook</em> (Microcosm/TFH 2008). If you want to know more about chloroquine phosphate, just ask (or get the book).
[B]Review[/B]
Okay, let’s review:
<ul>
<li>You observe white spots on your fish.</li>
<li>You do not refer to the condition as “ich”; instead you call it crypto or, if you want to sound really cool, cryptocaryonosis.</li>
<li>You move all of your fish to a hospital tank leaving the display tank without any hosts for the parasites in the tank.</li>
<li>You decide on a treatment protocol and begin treatment.</li>
<li>You stick with the treatment for four weeks.</li>
<li>You reintroduce your fishes to the display tank and go about your merry way.</li>
</ul>
Saltwater Fish Don't Get Ich; They Get Crypto
I was talking to a friend the other day, and he told me that he had "ich." In any other context, that would be a baffling statement, but, as a marine aquarist, I knew exactly what he meant, even though he was using the wrong terminology.
Wrong terminology? How so, you ask.
Saltwater Fish Don’t Get “Ich”
Simply stated, marine fishes don’t get ich. The term “ich” refers to the parasite Ichthyophthirius multifilis</em>, which is a freshwater parasite. When marine aquarists speak of “saltwater ich,” they should be saying “crypto,” as the saltwater condition is called cryptocaryonosis, and it is caused by the parasite Cryptocaryon irritans</em>.
Why Do Marine Fish Get Crypto
It is my contention that there is a lot we don’t know about crypto. The one thing I do feel confident saying, however, is that the leading impetus behind a crypto outbreak is stress. Obviously stress in and of itself does not cause crypto, but stress challenges a fish’s immune system, and it is when the fish is in this compromised state that the parasite most easily gains a foothold and an outbreak may ensue.
It doesn’t matter if you bought your new fish at http://www.saltwaterfish.com/">Saltwaterfish.com</a> or your local fish store—that fish may well be stressed, and adding that new fish to your established aquarium may cause your other fishes to become stressed. All this potential stress provides an ideal environment for a crypto outbreak, which is why it is essential to eliminate stress wherever you can. Now rest assured, the majority of first time marine aquarium fish buyers don’t experience a crypto outbreak, but to make your husbandry practices bullet proof, be sure to [IMG]http://www.saltwaterfish.com/">watch</a> the acclimation video on Saltwaterfish.com, take things slowly and do all you can to reduce the stress.
As Scott Hughes, owner of Saltwaterfish.com, says in the acclimation video on the website, a quarantine tank (or simply QT) is “a small investment that pays great returns.” I strongly suggest you have a QT tank and that you quarantine nearly every new fish before adding it to the display tank. Let me repeat that, as there is no more important single piece of advice when it comes to avoiding cryptocaryonosis: [B]ALMOST EVERY NEW FISH SHOULD BE QUARANTINED BEFORE BEING ADDED TO YOUR DISPLAY TANK[/B]. As you will hear every experienced hobbyist reiterate until they are blue in the face, patience is the key in the hobby. Don’t rush anything.
[B]The Life Cycle of [I]Cryptocaryon irritans</em>[/B]
Let's get back to crypto itself, however. A fish infested with [I]Cryptocaryon irritans</em> is sometimes said to be suffering from “white spot disease” because this is how the parasite is most observable to the aquarist. The so-called white spots are actually the trophant phase of the parasite’s life cycle. The trophant phase is where the parasite is attached to the fish (its host) and feeding. After a period of days (up to one week), the parasite drops off the fish and becomes free-swimming. It then divides (the tomant stage) and can lay dormant as cysts for nearly a month (depending on temperature) before the cysts break apart and the parasite, now in the tomite stage, seeks out a host. We are now back to the trophant phase and “white spot disease.”
Did I lose you? As I explained this to my friend, his eyes glazed over—he just wanted to save his fish, after all. I know. I know. But it is essential to understand how [I]Cryptocaryon irritans</em> works if you are going to successfully eradicate it from your system, and that is the goal, correct? So let’s now talk about getting rid of a crypto outbreak.
[B]Treatment[/B]
Above I outlined the three life stages of [I]Cryptocaryon irritans</em>. They are:
<ol>
<li>Trophant (up to one week)</li>
<li>Tomant (up to one month)</li>
<li>Tomite (one or two days)</li>
</ol> It is important to understand that it is only during the tomite phase that the common treatments for crypto are effective, and this phase, as mentioned above, lasts only a day or two.
[B]Copper[/B]
Most commonly copper is used to treat crypto, and because copper is lethal to almost all invertebrates, the treatment usually happens in a separate hospital tank. Because the life cycle of the parasite can be as long as a month, with only a small one to two day window, when treatment is truly effective, the fishes must be kept in the medicated hospital tank for four weeks. During this time, the display tank must have no fishes in it so that any tomites that hatch will not find a host.
Unfortunately copper, despite its effectiveness, is known to have long-term negative effects on certain fishes. This has led some aquarists to seek alternatives to copper treatment, and there are several.
[B]Hyposalinity[/B]
Hyposalinity (again in a hospital tank, as it will harm or kill inverts) is one possible alternative to copper, especially if combined with dips (see below). Effective hyposaline conditions require the specific gravity to be around 1.010. It is recommended to use hyposalinity in conjunction with copper, if copper is the treatment employed.
[B]Dips[/B]
Using freshwater dips dosed with formalin and malachite green for a period of three to four weeks can be effective, especially when the water in the hospital tank is changed out (otherwise reinfestation may occur). In my opinion, the dips can be as effective as treating the hospital tank with formalin and malachite green, and you run less risk of endangering the infested fish’s immune system. Having said that, some aquarists forgo the dips and simply treat the hospital tank with formalin and malachite green. Whichever you choose, follow the directions or seek out the advice of an advanced aquarist.
[B]Chloroquine Phosphate[/B]
Using chloroquine phosphate to treat crypto is a relatively new protocol with which I do not have first-hand experience, but I have heard very good things. Bob Goemans and Lance Ichinotsubo discuss this treatment in their book [I]The Marine Fish Health & Feeding Handbook</em> (Microcosm/TFH 2008). If you want to know more about chloroquine phosphate, just ask (or get the book).
[B]Review[/B]
Okay, let’s review:
<ul>
<li>You observe white spots on your fish.</li>
<li>You do not refer to the condition as “ich”; instead you call it crypto or, if you want to sound really cool, cryptocaryonosis.</li>
<li>You move all of your fish to a hospital tank leaving the display tank without any hosts for the parasites in the tank.</li>
<li>You decide on a treatment protocol and begin treatment.</li>
<li>You stick with the treatment for four weeks.</li>
<li>You reintroduce your fishes to the display tank and go about your merry way.</li>
</ul>
