Should I downgrade from 140g?

downgrading always seems like a hard thing to do when you're considering it. And, I'm not sure the word "downgrade" is the right word for swapping to a smaller tank. I did this when I moved from Alabama. I went from a 120 to a shallow 80, and while it doesn't seem like that big of a difference it really is because all of a sudden the 80g has some REALLY powerful equipment at its disposal haha. And, as you mention water changes also get simpler.

So, don't consider it a downgrade. What you're doing is decreasing the amount of water you have to maintain in order to offer your animals better health.

B
 
In this pic you can see some odd algae or something on the sand on the right side. It's been lingering for a long time. I've considered vaccuuming but there isn't that much of it.

In the bottom left the sand has been blown away from the corner for a while. You can see 3 shades of coraline on the bottom of the tank glass. Blotches of really light, almost white, purple, blotches dark maroon/burgundy and then the more normal purple. You can actually see a tiny spot or two of pink but it's hard to pick out. I'll try to get some better pics under full spectrum tonight.

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I see what you're saying. Now, downgrade or whatever you want to call it, is out of the question. I've gotten in to a nice, low maintenance groove, for this tank that's producing good results.
 
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Over the last 30 days or so, evaporation has been low due to low usage of AC or heat in the house. Normal stuff. Thus comes the issue with kalk in your ato. I've been lazy with my testing and just dosing alk and ca 2 part more than I was before, as my fully saturated kalk ato wasn't handling consumption even at over a gallon of ato a day. I had the feeling I  might be adding too  much but I decided to wait until I started seeing an issue - probably not the best idea.

I might only be thinking this  because I watched one of the recent BRS videos about high alk and ca, but I feel like skeletal growth is outpacing soft tissue growth. I have a setosa that is growing nicely and an incredible deep pink. It now is a lighter pink, I believe because the skeleton is growing faster than the soft tissue keep up.  Likewise, a stag is growing a lot at the tips, but the tips have more white than normal.

I had been steadily lowering my trace addition to make sure I wasn't overdosing it so I stepped it back up just a little.
 
That is all real coraline. That was originally white rock.



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It think we've had the Kalk in the ATO discussion before. I tried it for a bit last year. I'm not and don't think I will ever be a fan of it. To many variables. Weather changes with heat and humidity that not only vary every day, but thoughout a day. The larger the surface area of your entire system the larger the changes in evaporation rates due to weather and hvac use. This will create alk and ph swings, and at times those swings can be extreme.

IMHO the ATO is just that, a top off, and your better dosing a known amount of alk & cal to the system through a variety of methods. 2-part, carx or just dosing fully saturated kalk water at a fixed rate and let the ato make up the difference in water volume as needed. Once you know your consumption it's easy to use a calculator to figure out the daily dose amount. Then you just check it occasionally to make adjustments to demand. If saturated kalk can't keep up then go to 2-part only to keep it simple the way you like it. Using both can be done but it's more complicated which means more work on your part and more chances for error.

It's hard enough to track down issues when the system is stable. Your adding instability which makes it even harder to identify something that is a major problem because you can never rule out alk/ph swings as the cause.

I'd like to think I've gotten very close to just being able to look at my coral and know if something's not right. It's taken time to learn and figure this all out but I've got my system pretty much set and forget on the dosing end of things. I just need to make sure my jugs are filled. The last 6 months have been great, even through the 4 to 5 weeks of neglect during the remodel. The worst that happened was a cyano bloom. Two weeks of better husbandry and it's all cleared up.

Over the long haul which of your systems has been the most successful and trouble free, the Office Nano or the Cube at home?
 
I agree that I don't like the kalk in the ATO... but I have the kalk, so I'll use it up at this point. I am considering using it out of a dripper though.



The office tank has been more successful... because of water changes... I rarely test that tank. When I did, alk and ca were always really low. I used kalk in the top off on that one too... MANUAL top off.. Now that I am trying to keep better coral in the nano it's worse.

Since I started dosing the trace elements, the 140 cube has been MUCH more successful than the nano ever was.
 
What about a doser, even if it's an inexpensive brs one? Then you can know exactly the volume your adding based on the time it's running per day.

Given the costs of livestock, especially with the info from my other post today, it's going to do nothing but go up. For me, I think, learning and maintaining the water in our systems is even more important than ever. Rebounding from a crash is going to get harder and harder financially, and for some it may get to be too much. Take the guessing and short cuts out of the equation. Sharing knowledge like this, helping each other learn how to be more proactive instead of reactive will make us all more successful.
 
A doser for the 5g or the 140g? I am definitely considering it for the 140g.



The 140g has had a ph spike due to the windows being open I believe. I don't have a controller on it and I don't trust my handheld tester or reagent test... but the Kenya tree has shriveled up. I would think it's running 8.0-8.2 normally. Now with the windows open it might be up over 8.3 Everything else seems fine other than slight was out, especially on the tips that I noticed before. I have another thought as to the cause though. Rising temps in the house and I've noticed all 3 heaters on more than I expected them to be. Temp might have been a little too high. The heaters are working, but probably not well as far as the thermostat goes. I'll replace them before the fall. At this point, in the next week or so the windows will get shut and there will be no almost need for heaters as I'll keep the house at 78.
 
Yes. I will probably get a the BRS two part package with the dosers next time I buy 2 part as I'll be about out of kalk by then.
 
If you want to stay with Kalk you can just get one doser and continue using it that way. Then just put straight RO water in the ATO.

You can also run your heaters thru a temperature controller. They're not that expensive and they give you another backup to a heater getting stuck on.
a> is $40 and will control two heaters.
 
I definitely want to get away from kalk altogether.



Temp controller would work.
 
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Dan, between you and Adam, I think that you guys saved my reef. I was having the same issue. After a week of going back and forth with Adam, he made me realize that I had not tested NO3 or PO4 in forever! Sure enough, they were zero! I have a large ATS running on my Red Sea XL525. It works way too well! The other thing that I realized that he and I didn't discuss is the fact that I had been dosing the Triton Other Method for the past 6 months. Triton includes trace elements in their dosing program. DUH! I stopped Triton a month ago. My SPS started fading and STN about 3 weeks later. Well gee...I wonder why? After reading your post, I went to the tank and dosed Trace. I just did that today so no effect yet. I'm willing to bet it fixes my issue too. I'll grab some pics tomorrow.

I'm really ticked that I couldn't figure it out earlier. I had to frag a JF Flame that was bout 5" tall and had a base that looked like half a tennis ball. It lost it's color on the tips and started to STN about halfway up.
 
The other thing that Adam helped me realize is that the ATS isn't just pulling NO3 and PO4. It's pulling other elements too, which means you have more of a need for trace!



I ran out of Reef Trace a few weeks ago so I've just been using Fuel. I'm  having an issue with precipitate on the glass. The 3 majors are fine. I guess I need to get some reef trace.



I also just installed 99% of a two bulb 36" retro kit. The kit came with only 3 end caps so BRS is sending me the missing one. Can't wait to get that thing fired up.
 
Since July.....

Laziness - I wasn't testing, using kalk and two part... and got CA up to about 600. Precipitated all over the surfaces, not just powder everywhere. The biggest issue that caused was clogging the ball valve feeding my ATS. I just let the ATS stop growing for the most part hoping that my chaeto in my fuge was enough. That also messed up my skimmer pump so I had it down for a time before I cleaned it. I have to assume NO3 and PO4 spiked but I don't test those. I also got some cyano.

I finally replaced the entire manifold with a new one and a gate valve. It works much better and the ATS is doing it's job pretty well after a week.

Light change - I moved my a360 and Ocean Revive and added the two T5s. Some SPS were getting more direct, pretty concentrated light from the OR and I don't think they liked it much.

Installed my BRS dosers. No more kalk. They've been on for 4 weeks or so. Still trying to get them dosing just right.



I believe the light changes in addition to the nutrients has caused some issues with my sps. It seems like alk and ca consumption has spiked in the last week. Hopefully because things are getting back to growing.
 
Lighting changes, possibly - although slight - temp changes (I added a temp controller), Skimmer offline for at time, ATS offline for a time, Mg testing was bad - I got down to 11oo or less! kalk to 2 part with dosers change.. There were a lot changes, some intentional and some accidental from laziness. Finally got my mg under control and the 100ml per day of alk and Ca is finally bringing up my levels after adding a TON of Mg. ATS and skimmer and doing their jobs again. I'm dumping and praying more trace elements. I THINK I've got stuff under control again but not before losing maybe 15% tissue on some of my SPS. Candy canes loss some tissue but some things are perfectly fine. Now that ATS and skimmer are working better I'm also feeding my 5 tangs a lot more.

I gave frags of quite a few of my SPS to a friend of mine just in case I can't manage to get it under control.... Just so it won't be a total loss. Yes...  Yes... I could just start doing decent sized water changes. I will if I don't see a turn around.
 
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