I would call today day 10. This has been one h@(( of a ride. My QT tank has finally finished its cycle. That was the hardest part of all this. A cycled QT tank is a must. I contribute the cycle to the loss of my Blonde. If I did not work he would not have died. As for the treatment. It is working. I had purchased a new Blonde Naso yesterday. Some might say that is crazy but I will explane why. I have found that almost all fish are infested with something nomater how hard an LFS works at it when you purchase them. Its almost impossible to have every fish in a large system completly parisite free. This fish has been out of the ocean for about 10 days. When I added him to QT he was a carrier of Ich and maby some other stuff (flukes, ect...) who knows! So by buying the fish now while I have a treatment method that works will also resolve any other issues he brings:up: .
Next thing I have found is if you treat with Hypo and back up with any meds (Copper, Paraguard, Fromalin, Malachite Green, ect...) that only half or less of the required dose is needed. If you put fresh water on copper at .50 then fish are going to die fast. For some reason it takes half the dose or less to be affective.
I have a Potters Angle, Powder Blue Tang, a very small Reagle Tang, Black Blenny, Fili Foxface and also a Blonde Naso (just purchased). All the fish are now eating very well with exception of the Fiji Foxface. I had a PH swing and he did not like it. You can not miss that dose of buffer.
The Angle had lost all his color Sat. night. So I performed a fresh water dip on him (5 min long) and inspected the water very closely after and found possible flukes not sure but why chance it. So today I did a very small dose of Paraguard and an even smaller dose of Malachite Green/Formalin. His color has returned quickly and no more flashing and rubbing.
Next thing I have done is added LOTS of vitamins to the water and have supplied more nori than they can eat in one sitting.
Ammonia is 0
Nitrites are 0
Nitrates maby 5
PH I am doing small amounts of buffer now every day.
The water looks ruff with all the vitamins, meds and nori in it but the fish are doing better every day and water tests good. I think I will stay with this for another 20 days to be safe. Then to finish up I will start bringing them back up to regular SG. That will take at least 5 to 7 days. Then 7 days with no meds and no signs of any pests and the fish will finally be ready to go back into the display. That will have given the display plenty of time for everything bad to have starved and died.
This does work, it also taks alot of time. I guess if you want healty fish, a healty tank, and something you can sit back and enjoy than its all worth it.
Total cost doing it right the first time - The price of the fish, a bucket of salt, patients, and some cheap meds.
Total cost to learn everything I have posted on this thread on your own - BIG BUCKS, and loss of fish!!! I hope everyone can learn from this and have some nice healthy fish.
I will update the final out come unless anything changes.
