Siphon break on a ATO system?

There is an easy to make fix whenever the reservoir level for the ATO is higher than the water level in the sump and you do not want splash issues. Take a piece of one-inch ID PVC pipe and cut it to a length such that when it is placed perpenticular to the surface of the water in the sump, it rests on the bottom of the sump, yet is long enough for the open end to be higher than the top lip of the ATO reservoir by about 6 inches. It does not have to be totally straight if that will prevent placement under a stand; you can use a pair of 45 degree angled connectors to make the length go outside the back side of the stand. Take the end that will be in the sump and slot it perpendicular to the length about every 2cm with a saw (slots should be about 1/8" wide, you'll need about 10 on each side of the pipe). On the opposite end (the high end), drill a hole about 1/4" from the open end that a ziptie will fit through. Place the pipe in the corner of your sump so the slotted end is submerged in the sump, and the open top is outside the sump (even outside the stand if needed) to make it higher than the ATO reservoir. Use zipties to hold it in place so it wont tip over or slide around once water is flowing through the pipe.

Run your flexible hose for the ATO from the pump at the bottom of the ATO reservoir (usually a Maxijet 1200) to the open end of the PVC pipe you've just placed in the corner of your sump. Insert the end of the flexible pipe plus about an inch or so of the flexline inside the open end of the PVC. Use a ziptie through the hole you've drilled in the top of the open pipe to hold the flexline in place. Make sure it is securely mounted inside the PVC. The open end of the pipe will now be higher than the water level of the ATO reservoir by your design, so that whenever the power is off for the Maxijet, it will allow a siphon break to occur. Once all the pipeing is connected, you can plug the maxijet into the relay for your float switch and esetablish your final sump level with the float switch. Tip: immerse the end of the appropriately sized flex line (either 1/2" or 5/8" ID nylon reinforced vinyl hose for the Maxijet 1200 powerhead, can't remember the exact size at the moment) in boiling water to make fitting it to the Maxijet easier.

Lemmeno if this is not crystal clear: I'll send pix of the fabrication of such a water splashguard input for your ATO. Those of you using a Ca reactor where there isn't enough room under the tank for the reactor can do the same for the drip line for the reactor effluent, using the ATO through the same line if needed. The intermittent rinse via ATO waterwill help keep the end of the effluent dripline clear of CaCO3.


HTH
 
So basically what your saying is use some pipe to make the inlet as high as possible? I think I get the picture. Makes sense to me. I have some 3/4" pipe laying around that I could use.
 
rostato;218157 wrote: So basically what your saying is use some pipe to make the inlet as high as possible? I think I get the picture. Makes sense to me. I have some 3/4" pipe laying around that I could use.

Yes, I willl post pix tomorrow of the DIY of this. So long as the open end of the PVC in the sump (as per the above description in my first post) is higher than the top edge of the ATO reservoir, it will not siphon. Water does not flow uphill under open air conditions, only when a closed siphon circuit exists. The use of the PVC pipe to extend the opening in the siphon circuit to higher than the top lip of the ATO reservoir prevents the formation of a siphon.

Film at 11... ;)
 
Cool, I am pretty sure I can make this work. Thanks for the help. Now I can hopefully start to dose Kalkwasser safely after this proves itself for a few weeks.
 
Back
Top