So, you want to be a reefer?

bhodges82

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Many people see a beautiful aquarium and think "I want that!" and buy a tank and give it a try. Everything starts out OK, and over time things don't look so great. Trying to figure out an easy solution people may turn to Google and stumble on a forum where they find a ton of information and pick one of the 1000+ solutions they find. After many attempts to get their aquarium back in order things don't change or get worse. The passion for the hobby fades away like they wish the algae would, and they sell their investment for a grafton of what it cost months prior. Sound familiar?

A small percentage of people that start the hobby actually stick with it more than a year or so due to failure. People get overwhelmed with problems and all the information that comes along with reef keeping. I would like to share some useful tips on how to create a successful reef aquarium and stay successful, there will be work required but it's totally worth it.

1. Research. Before getting involved with a commitment try to figure out what you are actually committing to. This applies to every aspect of the hobby; water chemistry, fish, inverts, coral, equipment.

Every time I see a fish I want I research to see if they're are any special needs or known problems in keeping it. I usually don't even ask the workers at the lfs but rather consult the internet with reputable sources like Live Aquaria, this is because often times in person people tend to forget minor details so it's better to turn to printed text to get accurate info.

When purchasing equipment research customer reviews and find out what the pros and cons are for that product, there's not much worse than buying an expensive product and then figuring out later that it isn't what you expected.

When it comes to water chemistry there is an abundance of information and methods of achieving the same goal. For myself it's best to do something that I'm comfortable with and that I am willing to do. Keeping it simple is the best advise I can give here. Don't dose things in to your aquarium that you can't test for. Making adjustments based on assumptions is never a good idea. When it comes time to make adjustments, do your math.... Twice, and write it on paper to make sure it looks correct.

2. Plan. From early on in the hobby I wanted a big system when my budget could afford it. When it was time to get new equipment I would buy oversized. Bigger skimmer than I needed, bigger pump, more lights, extra pumps, extra heaters, etc., it was easier for me to upgrade my system because I anyway had equipment to fit the upgrade. Having extra equipment on hand was my insurance policy incase of equipment failure and it allowed me to help people in need when emergencies happened.

3. Keep a log. I started letting a log of things I did to my system agreed a fellow reefer showed me his log. Every time I would change media, do a water change, perform tests, maintenance I would write it in my log. If things in the tank started to look unhappy I could consult my log book for clues like test results or the last time I changed media out. Now I use the software in my apex unit to keep my logs, super helpful.

4. Get a mentor! Most things in I know I learned from others. It really helped me to have a reefing mentor, someone I could consult with about my reefing issues and get advise. I didn't just choose a random person I chose someone that had what I wanted, a nice reef tank. I asked numerous questions about how to do things and how things work. I didn't ask many other people the same questions because I trusted my mentor. Because I had one source of information I didn't get confused with so many different ways to do things, I had a simple approach.

Don't trust a person's advise if they won't show you their successful reef tank, get proof they know what they are talking about.

5. Go natural. The idea of having a reef tank is basically recreating and maintaining an oceanic environment in your home. If there is a natural solution to a problem you are experiencing, try that first. An example would be adding a refugium to grow macro algae and pods, this will naturally lower nitrates and feed your fish. Algae can naturally be controlled with herbivores. Some reef pests can be controlled with wrasse fish. A natural defense against a natural problem just makes sense.

Cycling is a natural process that new tanks NEED to go thorough. This is the first ugly stage of every long term reef tank. A lot of people want to rush this process because the tank looks nothing like the reason they got in to the hobby. Many products are marketed to speed this process up, none of them are needed. This hobby is a test of patience, give your tank the time it needs to become stable. One bit of advise I can give you on this topic is this, don't interrupt the cycle with water changes and cleaning, let nature work while you get comfortable doing water tests.


This is by no means a complete guide to reefing, but it is a start. I would like to hear from others that have a long term tank on what they can contribute to their success.

Nothing good happens fast in a reef tank
 
Yes! I’ve shared all of these exact same points dozens of times... Many people listen, but not everybody.

Those few who decide they know better and/or can just throw money at problems instead of being patient and learning, they’re the ones that usually end up calling me crying 8 months later when everything is going downhill fast. I urge all beginners to heed this advice written above.

Additionally, it helps to do a little solo research first before asking your mentor/friends big questions (like ‘how do I set up a quarantine system?’). They are probably always happy to help! However, it goes a long way to help speed up conversations if you’re already rolling a little bit.

Also... live aquaria is a great resource, but take info from that website with a grain of salt. They have a good amount of mis-identified species and other mis-information. They have so much info plus it’s organized well, that it makes it a great first resource to check things out! Just don’t let it be your last. Some of the small websites are run by individuals with more passion, and are more accurate.
 
Also... live aquaria is a great resource, but take info from that website with a grain of salt. They have a good amount of mis-identified species and other mis-information. They have so much info plus it’s organized well, that it makes it a great first resource to check things out! Just don’t let it be your last. Some of the small websites are run by individuals with more passion, and are more accurate.

Andrew - what are some of these smaller websites you use?
 
Good question. It depends on what info you’re looking for. But one example would be https://reefguide.org/ Still, I would never rely entirely on info from just 1 website.

If you were to ask “how do you know when a websites information is accurate?” I would say 2 things. 1) from experience, and/or 2) from checking multiple websites. After a while, you will see a pattern emerge that suggests which ones are accurate.

Jin and I discussed perhaps doing a future meeting on this subject. “Correct Identification of species” potentially splitting it into categories (e.g. inverts, fish,...). Simply because correct identification is often the first step towards taking any actions. If so, I’ll create a more comprehensive website list with detailed notes on each one.
 
I follow a simple formula and it seems to work just fine. I have lost fish and corals, but not owing to this formula, but in violation.

Main tank minimum 75 gal and say 10 gal sump.
Filter: Floss and large Protein Skimmer in sump
12 hours light and dark a day
Extensive carbon dosing for a high bio load to control Nitrate - dose each day and have 2 carbon pellet reactors
Feed generously twice a day - frozen shrimp and flakes with seaweed for herbivores
1.3 watts LED, half blue, per gallon
1.025 SG changing 5 gallons a week to minimize stress
Dose Kent Purple Up, Instant Ocean Reef Accelerator, SeaChem Plus every day
76-78 degrees F

And this supports 6 tangs, 1 Angel, 2 Gobies, 6 small Clowns, 6 shrimp, numerous crabs and snails, and a modest number of corals.

If someone starts with something like this, they should have a relatively easy time. Here is an example of what works. Research isn't so concise. But this recipe along with proper research and understanding should get
someone started quite well. It is not the only way, and I am not nearly the most experienced, but it is relatively simple and manageable. I spend probably 15 min a day and 30 minutes once a week monitoring and maintaining.
 
I follow a simple formula and it seems to work just fine. I have lost fish and corals, but not owing to this formula, but in violation.

Main tank minimum 75 gal and say 10 gal sump.
Filter: Floss and large Protein Skimmer in sump
12 hours light and dark a day
Extensive carbon dosing for a high bio load to control Nitrate - dose each day and have 2 carbon pellet reactors
Feed generously twice a day - frozen shrimp and flakes with seaweed for herbivores
1.3 watts LED, half blue, per gallon
1.025 SG changing 5 gallons a week to minimize stress
Dose Kent Purple Up, Instant Ocean Reef Accelerator, SeaChem Plus every day
76-78 degrees F

And this supports 6 tangs, 1 Angel, 2 Gobies, 6 small Clowns, 6 shrimp, numerous crabs and snails, and a modest number of corals.

If someone starts with something like this, they should have a relatively easy time. Here is an example of what works. Research isn't so concise. But this recipe along with proper research and understanding should get
someone started quite well. It is not the only way, and I am not nearly the most experienced, but it is relatively simple and manageable. I spend probably 15 min a day and 30 minutes once a week monitoring and maintaining.
How long has this tank been running? Picture?
 
I started this tank maybe 6 months ago. It is pretty stable now. Fish seem healthy. Corals are a challenge. I need to read more on corals. For some reason the tangs were spooked, so I only got a couple in the picture. But they all like to swim across
the front towards the bottom because the flow is high at the top of the tank. You can see the algae clip in the current from the two power heads on the right.
IMG_20191221_090335029.jpg
 
What I find the fish enjoy is lots of tunnels under the rocks. That is what is probably most distinctive about my tank. You can see the Yellow Tang int he middle in one of the tunnels. There is a path all the way across the tank in the back, and several tunnels to the front of the tank. The tangs hang out at the bottom of the tank in the lower flow, and the clown fish hang out closer to the top in a lower flow area usually.
 
What I find the fish enjoy is lots of tunnels under the rocks. That is what is probably most distinctive about my tank. You can see the Yellow Tang int he middle in one of the tunnels. There is a path all the way across the tank in the back, and several tunnels to the front of the tank. The tangs hang out at the bottom of the tank in the lower flow, and the clown fish hang out closer to the top in a lower flow area usually.

While you're methods that you listed seems fine to export nutrients, your tank will not sustain that kind of livestock long term. As those tangs get bigger, they will need more space. Same goes for the clowns.

When I first started out almost 7 years ago, I thought I could beat the odds like what you're trying here, and long term, it just does not work. Even now, I am pushing with 4 tangs in in a 120G, but my goals are to upgrade to a 6' tank. I hope you have similar plans for your livestock.
 
I have space reserved for a 180 at the other side of the room. I know I have too many fish when they grow up. Fully grown, those tangs will need a 6' tank. But I am not yet ready to make the leap until I develop my understanding and formula further, and that is what I am doing with the 75. I really like fish, so I think the 180 will be mostly fish, and the 75 will remain to house corals.
 
Your current filtration relies heavily on additives and products, eventually this will become more expensive than its worth. Natural methods such as refugium or algae reactors don't cost money to maintain and are just as effective at nutrient removal. A lot of people don't realize that coral is part of nutrient reduction, coral needs nitrate and phosphate to thrive so the more you have the more it removes.
 
Good points all. I just wish I could afford more corals. Unfortunately, no space for a refugium. I tried some Chaeto in the sump, but it just dissolved and disappeared. My fault I am sure. Right now I am using a sledgehammer to keep things right when I should be using a softer, more natural touch. But at least I am in a stable orbit. I can improve things one thing at a time while my wards are happy and healthy. The big discontinuity will be moving the fish to a bigger tank, but the 75 gives me a chance to find the right balance of natural and artificial maintenance.
 
Good points all. I just wish I could afford more corals. Unfortunately, no space for a refugium. I tried some Chaeto in the sump, but it just dissolved and disappeared. My fault I am sure. Right now I am using a sledgehammer to keep things right when I should be using a softer, more natural touch. But at least I am in a stable orbit. I can improve things one thing at a time while my wards are happy and healthy. The big discontinuity will be moving the fish to a bigger tank, but the 75 gives me a chance to find the right balance of natural and artificial maintenance.
An Algae Turf Scrubber is also a good nutrient removal option. So is a Chaeto reactor.

In addition to the reference material above this is an excellent resource for fish. @jennm recommended it to me early on when I was setting up. Jenn used to own an LFS and is a founding member of the club.

 
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