Sump baffels
- Thread starter zanski
- Start date
- Messages
- 398
- Reaction score
- 0
i think 24 hours but i would wait 48 hours just to ben safe
I retired from the worlds largest silicone producer after 36.5 years. For a 1/4 inch (that's not structural) 24 hours should be acceptable, larger than that I'd go 48 hours and if you have a 1/2 surface area of silicone and larger and are looking for structural strength I'd wait at least 72 hours. It's not that critical for non- structural application ie baffles in a sump.
Reason for the 72 hours is that the sealant cures in the first 24-36 hours but it's the chemical bond to the glass that takes the longest. Always cleans all surfaces to be bonded or sealed with alcohol. Happy sealing!:yuk:I love the stuff, it's in my blood and pays my pension but it sure is messy.
P.S. I spent the 70's trying to be a sales hero calling on all the aquarium mfgs in the Northeast
Reason for the 72 hours is that the sealant cures in the first 24-36 hours but it's the chemical bond to the glass that takes the longest. Always cleans all surfaces to be bonded or sealed with alcohol. Happy sealing!:yuk:I love the stuff, it's in my blood and pays my pension but it sure is messy.
P.S. I spent the 70's trying to be a sales hero calling on all the aquarium mfgs in the Northeast
Re Guess: Nope it was the guys who tried to sell breasts :doh: instead of silicone RTV sealant, Dow Corning, still in chapter 11 since '95, but going strong. I have to add that I've got a 175 g made in the early 70's with a sealant made by Rhone Poulanc, (French Chemical Company) that is still going strong. (French sarcasm not necessary - been there! )
P.S. RTV stands for Room Temperature Vulcanizing - reacts with moisture in the air, releases acetic acid :boo: but goes away when fully cured. BTW, sealant takes longer to cure when in dry conditions ie winter time when humidity is low, but for most of you guys the humidity is likely high:yes:
P.S. RTV stands for Room Temperature Vulcanizing - reacts with moisture in the air, releases acetic acid :boo: but goes away when fully cured. BTW, sealant takes longer to cure when in dry conditions ie winter time when humidity is low, but for most of you guys the humidity is likely high:yes:
I wear gloves when I silicon stuff so I can just peel them off for that reason.
As for time, 24 hours is plenty. There is no real pressure on the baffles unless you are running some crazy amount of flow through the sump. I tried to pull a baffle once after about 12 hours and lets just say it wasn't going anywhere.
As for time, 24 hours is plenty. There is no real pressure on the baffles unless you are running some crazy amount of flow through the sump. I tried to pull a baffle once after about 12 hours and lets just say it wasn't going anywhere.
Yes, the vinegar smell is the acetic acid by-product. Hint: when the smell is gone the sealant's pretty much cured. I can't give design specifics but just remember the larger the bead or bond cross section the slower the cure.
If you are bonding 1/2 inch glass the moisture has to penetrate to the center to complete the cure. If you are just using the silicone to keep the baffles in place then it's likely you won't have to wait 72 hours. When I refer to full cure and bonding it is for those joints that are taking a lot of load, such as the seal at the bottom of a 125 gallon tank. In essence sealing in baffles in a sump doesn't really require the care and concern that you would have with the construction of a large aquarium.
If you are bonding 1/2 inch glass the moisture has to penetrate to the center to complete the cure. If you are just using the silicone to keep the baffles in place then it's likely you won't have to wait 72 hours. When I refer to full cure and bonding it is for those joints that are taking a lot of load, such as the seal at the bottom of a 125 gallon tank. In essence sealing in baffles in a sump doesn't really require the care and concern that you would have with the construction of a large aquarium.
