Sump help, beat me now

You could go with an HOB skimmer to conserve space in the sump areas if needed. Also, is the back of the two cabinets open, or could they be cut open? If so, then you could pickup enough room for a cube sump with 4 or 5 inches of it hanging out the back on separate support.

Don't forget space for the ATO.
 
At some point you will need your sump to have enough volume to handle the excess tank water. Don't do a tank without planning for that... or your nice wood floors will get wrecked. I like the idea of putting tanks in both and then plumbing them together. Building a sump is not hard. Since it doesn't need to look pretty you just need to find some cheap acrylic sheets and weldon.
 
saltwaterwanna , I like the Trigger Systems and also the Eshopps https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/cube-medium-refugium-sump-eshopps.html
Naturally money is an issue but it seems I keep getting deeper and deeper in so it gets to be like "what the hell, I cant take it with me" LOL
My biggest concern is having healthy inhabitants and a successfull tank, therefore getting the best filtering/sump system I can comfortably afford that will fit in the given space.
Just means I have to detail more cars,planes and motorcycles to pay stuff off LOL
 
Would 2 10 Gal tanks work, one on each side?
At some point you will need your sump to have enough volume to handle the excess tank water. Don't do a tank without planning for that... or your nice wood floors will get wrecked. I like the idea of putting tanks in both and then plumbing them together. Building a sump is not hard. Since it doesn't need to look pretty you just need to find some cheap acrylic sheets and weldon.

Wouldnt a Cube Sump with the same volume as both 10gal accomplish the same excess?
 
Wouldnt a Cube Sump with the same volume as both 10gal accomplish the same excess?

Yes, they both can accommodate the same water volume, but as I mentioned previously, you just need to make sure that when the return pump is turned off, that the display will not overflow the sump. Because unless there is something to break the siphon, your water will drain down all the way to the outlet of the return. As a cheaper option, you could go with a u-tube return nozzle on Amazon and drill some holes at the top, but the siphonstopper would be much safer. You should also add a check valve as an extra precaution. If you go with two 10s, then you are going to need to drill them; for peace of mind, I would also drill a secondary hole in case the first gets blocked somehow.
 
I always try to plan the sump to account for failure of the check valve. So keep your sump big enough to accomodate the water from the display until the siphon break. I've not tried the siphonstopper before though, it looks interesting.
 
What about using a jigsaw to trim out the hight of the sump in the partition. You can also trim higher and add a 2x4 brace across the top of the sump.
 
I always try to plan the sump to account for failure of the check valve. So keep your sump big enough to accomodate the water from the display until the siphon break. I've not tried the siphonstopper before though, it looks interesting.

Absolutely, and with only 20 gallons, that's were the siphon is going to be the key; the check valve should only serve as a back-up. For 125 gallons, a larger sump in either a different stand or separate one would certainly be much better.

Joey, the King of DIY, uses them in his gallery.
 
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I always try to plan the sump to account for failure of the check valve. So keep your sump big enough to accomodate the water from the display until the siphon break. I've not tried the siphonstopper before though, it looks interesting.
i agree , unfortunatley we are past the being able to plan ahead . we are the "making due" stages now . 2" down from the rim of the take is about 10-15 gals as i have found doing water changes .
 
Well after sitting at the computer all afternoon, I think I have found my solution. It is a not to bad in price and seems to have everything I need.
https://aquatic-sealife.com/freedom-flex-sump-model-300/ still have to find the dimensions of each piece separetly but i think this should work
I still plan on the syphonstopper for sure. This is a result in now writting everything down at the begining which I do in everything else I plan out (my auto detailing business)
 
Alrighty, So I found my sump and now I'm about to change over from the Canister to the sump. Should I keep the Canister running after I change over or just transfer the bio media to the sump as it has a place for that if needed. Then cut the canister totally. The tank does have 2 clowns in it , so I do have some concern about them.
 
The rock, sand and surfaces of the tank have more than enough bacteria to handle two clowns. I'm not sure if I'd even worry about adding whatever is in the canister to the sump. a couple clowns in a 125 is nothing for a bioload. You're also going to be adding to the volume of the system as well. 10-12 gallons in the sump and piping would be more than 10% of the 90 or so gallons in the 125.
 
The rock, sand and surfaces of the tank have more than enough bacteria to handle two clowns. I'm not sure if I'd even worry about adding whatever is in the canister to the sump. a couple clowns in a 125 is nothing for a bioload. You're also going to be adding to the volume of the system as well. 10-12 gallons in the sump and piping would be more than 10% of the 90 or so gallons in the 125.

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Awesome, that was kinda my thoughts also , just wanted another opinion
 
I agree, it is probably unnecessary to move the media, provided you have an adequate amount of rock in the display. If you have room in the sump, might as well though, at least for a little while. No need to keep the canister going.

Did you go with the Freedom Flex?
 
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