Sump Plumbing Question

[gas7057]

I got a 75g tank from a coworker who was moving. He was not using a sump but instead 2 HOB filters. I have had the tank up and running with those filters for a while but now I am trying to set up a sump. Since the tank is not drilled I will be using a LifeReef Overflow, Reef Octopus NWB-110 and an Eheim 1060 return pump. My other tank is a Solana so this is my first attempt at a sump. I am a little nervous about the plumbing.

From the pic you can see that I plan to have the return in the middle chamber and the refugium on the far end opposite the skimmer. My questions are:

1. Should I split the supply line to the sump with a ball valve to the refugium or split the return with a ball valve to the refugium?
2. If the plumbing is PVC, should I use some flex tube to connect to the return pump for easy removal if necessary?
3. How about the connection to the overflow?
4. Are there other locations I should use union connectors?
5. Does this design and equipment make sense?

Please provide some feedback before I cause myself unnecessary headaches.
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[rdnelson]

Here are my thoughts. I set up my first SW tank pretty much the same way. 45 gal, not drilled. Went with a canister filter to start. Before building my sump I built a DIY HOB Overflow.

Here is what I have learned about HOB Overflows:
1. Make sure that the weir portion is painted and allows no light to enter. Otherwise, algae will grow in that area where you can't get to it and plug it up. That results in overflowing your tank.
2. Don't rely on a power head to suck the air out of the top of the weir. Use a $15 aqua lifter. It is much more reliable.
3. Keep the tubing from the top of the Overflow box through the aqualifter nice and clean. If it plugs, air will build up in the weir and your tank will overflow.

Sounds ominous but it is workable. I just don't want all that risk any longer even though it has been running now for about 6 months.

As for plumbing here are my thoughts:
1. Do not put any valves in the drain from the tank to the sump. Flex hose if fine but make sure it is not clear. If it is clear and light enters algae will grow and again, you will overflow your tank.
2. Have the drain dump into the skimmer compartment in the sump. From there it goes to the return pump compartment after traveling through a bubble trap.
3. Split the return pipe just above the return pump. On each branch of the split, put a ball valve. One goes to the refugium and you close that valve until there is just a slow flow through the refugium but enough to cause your macro algae to tumble. The other branch goes back to the tank. That ball valve allows you to set the flow below the maximum your overflow box can handle.
4. Put a union as often as possible but in places you will be able to reach after every thing is set up and running. The more unions the better you will be able to get things apart should an emergency come up.

Hope that helps and good luck.

Oh and one last thing. Your tank looks great.

 

[gas7057]

I'm not real clear on the aqua lifter recommendation

 

[redstang]

gas7057;759164 wrote: I'm not real clear on the aqua lifter recommendation

He's saying to use a small and inexpensive pump called an aqua lifter to ensure that you don't lose your siphon on your HOB overflow. Suction should either go on a connection coming out of the overflow or route some tubing up inside it.

 

[rdnelson]

RedStang;759169 wrote: He's saying to use a small and inexpensive pump called an aqua lifter to ensure that you don't lose your siphon on your HOB overflow. Suction should either go on a connection coming out of the overflow or route some tubing up inside it.

Exactly. Here is a video of the one I built. You will see I made all of the mistakes. LOL Since then, I have painted it to stop algae growth and I changed to the Aqua Lifter pump to remove the air from the top.

<div class="gc_ifarem_title">DIY HOB Overflow - YouTube</div>

 

[realfish]

If you have not already purchased your hang on the back overflows, I would highly recommend a drill through the back overflow from

 

[rdnelson]

RealFish;759173 wrote: If you have not already purchased your hang on the back overflows, I would highly recommend a drill through the back overflow from http://www.glass-holes.com">www.glass-holes.com</a> I'm sure there are others around, but this is who I have experience with.[/QUOTE]

+ 100000

That is why I drilled my new tank and built my own overflow box and Bean Animal on the 125 I am about to set up. Much better than a Hang on the Back. But, your tank is set up like my 45 was and unless you want to break it down you are kind of stuck.

Here is what I did on my 125.

<div class="gc_ifarem_title">Bean Animal Overflow Test - YouTube</div>

 

[clay4au]

The chamber for the return pump is tiny. This is where you will see the water loss from evaporation. If you don't have an ATO you will really have to stay on top of adding water or you could burn your pump up if it runs dry.

 

[realfish]

rdnelson99;759176 wrote: + 100000

That is why I drilled my new tank and built my own overflow box and Bean Animal on the 125 I am about to set up. Much better than a Hang on the Back. But, your tank is set up like my 45 was and unless you want to break it down you are kind of stuck.

Here is what I did on my 125.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bE8TJkbSzs4">Bean Animal Overflow Test - YouTube</a>[/QUOTE]

That's nice Rich.

 

[gas7057]

Clay4AU;759191 wrote: The chamber for the return pump is tiny. This is where you will see the water loss from evaporation. If you don't have an ATO you will really have to stay on top of adding water or you could burn your pump up if it runs dry.

I do have an ATO. So it should work ok then?

 

[clay4au]

gas7057;759199 wrote: I do have an ATO. So it should work ok then?

Yep it should keep it right where it needs to be.