Sump Pump Problems...

slinky

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I have a 55 gallon NON-Drilled tank. yesterday, I decided to add a sump (pro clear 75 wet/dry filter). The intake works like this: an overflow box connected (via a u-tube) to a container, then to the sump, I use a Maxijet 1200 for the return. looks good on paper right? here is the problem:

I see the water level slowing rising in the display and eventually I had to turn off the pump. is the maxi-jet pumping too much water compared to the overflow box?

Also when I turn off the pump, back siphon happened and Snowman told me to drill a hole below the water surface. (is that sump water surface or display water surface?)

do people encounter the problem of return pump return rate > overflow intake rate?

grrrrre --- got to clean up the floor now...
 
The hole he's talking about needs to be just below the DT water line. The siphon effect will continue until the level reaches that point at which the siphon will "break". As for the return pump out performing the drain. What size drain are you running? I would think it would be tough for even a modded maxijet to outperform a drain any larger than 1/2".
 
pictures would be helpful in helping us understand your setup. Then we can diagnose what may have gone wrong. The typical overflow runs at 600 gph (that is with a 1" diameter downtube). There's no way a MJ1200 can pump that back so I'm having trouble visualizing how this is set up.
 
I used to have that sump. MJ1200 is not going to cut it. You need a 600-650gph return pump.
 
Here's some good info...

a>l
 
that is a good point, please see
http://www.pro-clear.com/wetdry.html">http://www.pro-clear.com/wetdry.html</a>
the 75 gallon wet/dry filter, the setup is the same as figure 2. and I did not modify anything.

Thanks for the help guys.
Also noticed: the U-tube has bubble in it, so maybe that's the bottle neck?

The drain is from the Pro Clear 75, I am sure it is larger than 1/2 inches. so maxijet shouldn't outperform it?
 
Im talking about a small hole in the DISPLAY return line FROM the sump. just below the surface. That way the water will syphon to THAT point.. and not to the bottom of your return line.

The maxijet shouldn't be even close to out performing the drain.

Hmm You have 2 lines between the sump and display. Make sure the DRAIN line is the LARGER one, and the return from the pump is the smaller one.


I took a look at the wet dry you sent me in the text, and I really think you'd be happier with a REAL LIFE sump (if you have room for one). That being said I know it should work. most people get rid of the bio balls btw (if you haven't already)

He is using the ProClear 75
http://www.pro-clear.com/pro_wetdry.htm">http://www.pro-clear.com/pro_wetdry.htm</a>


b
 
I was little concerned maxijet won't be enough before I hook them up, only found a puddle of water on the floor:)

there got to be something wrong with my setup.

I will get a real sump and a burly skimmer, probably very soon:) I will keep an eye on your skimmer once I find a good sump, snowman.
 
np. You'll do really good to find someone in your area that has a sump setup and go see how it works. I know it can be confusing at first.

anyone out there close to him? I'm in alabama or id be a part :(

let's get this guy up and running!
 
There are plenty of people close to him, I'm sure! :) The problem is NOT in the size of your pump however, unless it's ever too big. In this case it's not and the drain/overflow is only going to take what the pump puts in. Your problem lies in the drain system first. Worry about the need for a larger pump later.
 
maybe I will just go find a sump now, can refugium and sump be the same tank?

I am not really concerned about if sump would work, just a bit concerned about if the overflow box (and the U-tube) would be as good as the regular built-in overflow in those reef ready tank. anyone got a first-hand experience with it?

Thanks.
 
You can have a sump/fuge combo, but the fuge needs its own section. And yes, with careful setup a HOB overflow can work just as well as a drilled tank... the advantages of a drilled tank are appearance (no box to see) and reliability/"flood-proofness". However, that's where the careful setup comes in. A HOB can be very reliable. You just need to do it right, and then kill the power to simulate what would happen in a power outage. If it doesn't backsiphon and fill the sump overfull, that's half the battle. Then you just have to take precaution to make sure the box can't "break" (lose) siphon. You can arrange a cheap Aqualifter pump in your setup to restore siphon if it is lost.
 
cr500_af;511748 wrote:
You can arrange a cheap Aqualifter pump in your setup to restore siphon if it is lost.

+1 This is a fairly simple thing to do. I'd go check it out for him but unfortunately, I'm leaving for Orlando and don't have the time until I get back on Sunday. I could definately check it out next week though. We'll get him up and running!:thumbs:
 
I have never run a HOB, but I can assure you I wouldn't consider doing it without a failsafe like an Aqualifter!
 
The u-tube has one leg longer than the other. I am sure they are by design to keep the siphon, which leg should go to the box?
 
A properly setup and maintained overflow box doesn't need an Aqualifter.

I see no way in which the water level in the tank could rise unless your intake box for the overflow (the one with the teeth) is too high, and it's just the pump adding enough water to the display so it overflows and makes the journey to the back of the box. With proper flow, bubbles shouldn't be able to sit stagnant at the top of the U-tube.
 
I'm meeting Slinky Friday in Cartersville. I'll make sure he knows whats going on with sumps and overflow boxes at that time...
 
Here is what worked for me, drop the bio balls no need for them, add a hanging bag filter .
Put a ball valve on the pump output , and a 1 way check valve at the water outlet to the tank will stop the reverse flow problem (6 bucks at homedepot) . slow down your water just a bit.
also drop the box as deep as you can in the back of the tank ,should adjust .
 
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