So my tank is a 55 I think I was told it was a 65 it's 48L-21h-12W and my sump will be a 40L-20H-10W tank not sure what size. I would like to know what size bulk heads I need and what size pump I will need. my stand is 28" tall plus the 21 of the tank? Anyone want ti buy or trade me some stuff for a 50 gallon tank? Lol
Tank build question ?
- Thread starter tunasam13
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If you can get away with it do 2 drains 1 return split the return with a Y lockline fitting that way if one drain gets clogged your tank will still drain properly and with the Y at the return you will only need 3 holes drilled
If your standpipe (drain) plumbing has a siphon break it will only drain what the overflow can hold in the event that you loose power this will keep your tank from emptying the contents into the sump.
Also a good idea to put a one way check valve in the return so water can't back siphon through return while off. You can run as much flow as you want as long as your return isn't moving faster than your drain
well not necessarily. The danger is if you pump more water in the tank then can drain out you'll face a flood. The pump rating will let you know how much is going into the tank. You can control this with a valve (make sure the valve is on the pumps output side). If you aren't drilling the holes yourself, to save money, I would just drill the one 3/4" and use y-splitters inside the tank to divert the flow to different areas. It might not be as clean looking but it won't look bad. And if you get caught in the hobby (you will, unless you go broke first) you'll eventually get a bigger tank in a few years anyhow =-D
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This post confused me sounds like your trying to set him up to overfill his display tank or did you say that backwards?
I'f his pump is moving more water in than what can drain out where the excess water going to go besides right over the walls of the display tank and spilling out onto the floor?
But NEVER on the drain. The problem with check valves is that they stay open for SO long, they are often stuck and when they need to close they don't. For that matter, don't put any sort of restriction in your drain... no ball valves, etc. If something (like a snail) goes down the drain line, they can get stuck in any narrow spots. If there are none, then you know if it fits in the top it can pass through to the bottom and not cause a flood.
If you need check valves to stop the sump from overflowing, you either need to drill siphon break holes higher up and/or lower the operating water level in the sump to allow for more draindown room.
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Never had trouble with a check valve getting stuck open (not that I'm doutbing you). I have to agree no check valve on the drain if the top of the drain entrance is almost equilibrium height of the teeth on over flow with hole drilled for siphon break and a sealed overflow then you should have no problems with draining with power off
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If you need ideas google durso standpipes to show you ideas. Dual return is fine if your wanting to do a return on each side of the tank but I would do a dual drain also behind overflow. If nothing else with a single refund put some kind of snail block on the drain to keep plumbing from getting stopped up
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Its just 3 or 4 pieces that is siliconed to the inside of the tank.
If your handi you can build one on your own with acrylic and Weldon hardest part would be cutting out the baffles / teeth
Check out melvsreef.com great site to show how.
Also mrc (sponsor) most likely can make you one if all else fails check website below
You can buy them from the website below
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I guess you could it just wont look as nice
