Tank issues corals dying

[schwaggs]

Sorry for your frustration. I know how you feel, been there...

What type of lighting and how old are your bulbs. Old bulbs can weaken corals to the point where they RTN.

Also, did you have a Alk or CA spike or dip in the last month? This can also trigger problems that getting your parms back in place can't fix overnight.

For the Nitrate problem 1) are you sure your test kit is accurate. 2) how about a massive water change. One big change is more effective than several little changes.

 

[ralph atl]

you can always try vodka...............

 

[jballa15]

I went through this saga over the summer, and it turned out to be a rusting drive shaft in my return pump (plus some other disintegrating part of the magnet). All my sps bleached over about a months time and then zoas started to shrink. I thought it was a temp spike at the beginning of the summer, then bad salt batch, etc. Anyways, a polypad, carbon, many water changes and much patients later I am now just getting back to some tester corals and my hobby again : )

Good luck, I know how you feel.

 

[kirru]

dang, that is confusing, i have ro water if you need some to mix up for saltwater, its cold though. i also got a HOB filter (2 sections) if you want to add anything to force water through it for carbon, etc. and if you need an alternative place to house your corals, i have room in my tank to hold it for ya. i'm not to far from you if you need me. just let me kno. that suxs.



i hope you find out what it is soon. keep us updated.

 

[basscyn]

Sorry for your troubles man...I wish I knew the answer.
Fortunately I have no experience with this problem...but thanks for postin up. This is how we rookies learn. Sounds like your in good hands.

What REALLY scares me is <u>you</u> know what your doing and this is not likley caused by neglect or lack of maintenance. It just... happened!!

Please keep us posted on your progress!!!

 

[jennm]

Polyfilter for sure to check for toxins and pull them out.

Rather than a massive water change, that will prompt a large and swift parameter shift, I'd suggest a series of smaller but more frequent water changes.

What's your temperature? I didn't see that in the parameter list.

Jenn

 

[casper75]

By any chance where there any busted water mains is your are. If so your RO unit might not be getting all the chemicals out that they used to help clean out where it busted.

 

[rbredding]

are you changing your water out from the sump or the display tank?

(could your nitrates be constantly up from water changes disturbing the substrate?)

I hate having a helpless feeling like that, I hope it turns around for you..

 

[william1]

Schwaggs;447208 wrote: Sorry for your frustration. I know how you feel, been there...

What type of lighting and how old are your bulbs. Old bulbs can weaken corals to the point where they RTN.

Also, did you have a Alk or CA spike or dip in the last month? This can also trigger problems that getting your parms back in place can't fix overnight.

For the Nitrate problem 1) are you sure your test kit is accurate. 2) how about a massive water change. One big change is more effective than several little changes.

Brand new bulbs, new test kits As I have been seeing Tim over the last month alot.

jballa15;447219 wrote: I went through this saga over the summer, and it turned out to be a rusting drive shaft in my return pump (plus some other disintegrating part of the magnet). All my sps bleached over about a months time and then zoas started to shrink. I thought it was a temp spike at the beginning of the summer, then bad salt batch, etc. Anyways, a polypad, carbon, many water changes and much patients later I am now just getting back to some tester corals and my hobby again : )

Good luck, I know how you feel.

I just might check into the drive shafts on my pumps sunday since its my next day off.

casper75;447264 wrote: By any chance where there any busted water mains is your are. If so your RO unit might not be getting all the chemicals out that they used to help clean out where it busted.

No water main problems around hear, and my R/O unit is pretty new even if my filters needed to be replaced I dont think it would be the problem. Most of the time I can tell by the algae that starts on the sand.

Rbredding;447265 wrote: are you changing your water out from the sump or the display tank?

(could your nitrates be constantly up from water changes disturbing the substrate?)

I hate having a helpless feeling like that, I hope it turns around for you..

I always try to do the water changes from my sump. But sometimes theres not enough water to change under there.

Are palys poisoness? I just erradicated a bunch by scraping them off some of my LR then adding the rock back into the display. Well I redid my rock work last sunday for more flow in the tank when I added the new rock so there wouldnt be any dead spots. But the nitrates were already high at that point.

Also my temp is steady at 79-80 daily.

 

[budsreef]

Dave and/or Jenn would you please describe exactly what you mean by this? What kind of polyfilter, how do you implement it and what would you expect to see or have it do? Is it just a test for certain toxins or will it actually remove them? Thanks!

Acroholic;447191 wrote: If you seriously think it is copper, as in a penny, get a Polyfilter pad and force waer thru it. It will show a specific color (red I think) if it catches any copper.

JennM;447251 wrote: Polyfilter for sure to check for toxins and pull them out.

Rather than a massive water change, that will prompt a large and swift parameter shift, I'd suggest a series of smaller but more frequent water changes.

What's your temperature? I didn't see that in the parameter list.

Jenn

 

[william1]

I hope this thread can help others out there so people arent having this problem alot. It sucks and its fustrating but a learning experience.

 

[kday25]

Sorry you're having problems, William. Don't give up....you'll find the problem. Stick with it.

 

[william1]

kday25;447311 wrote: Sorry you're having problems, William. Don't give up....you'll find the problem. Stick with it.

Thanks for the kind words. Im sticking with it and not going to give up.

 

[jonboyb]

I just left Will's and I have been there several times and I can vouch for his tank maintenance and care. I've never seen anything like what he's having. What SPS he still had in there is dying from the base and tips from what I saw (lights off though). Heck....even his Colt coral is struggling and you can't kill one of those in my experience. This is going to turn out to be something off-the-wall.....if it's even determined.

 

[jennm]

http://www.pets-warehouse.com/pic-a/APMPF.JPG" alt="" />

It's a polyester filter pad treated with adsorption resins. I suggest everybody has one of these on hand for emergencies.

Removes:

Harmful organics, toxic ammonia, heavy metals, all forms of phosphates, and medications after treatment.

In normal use (with no unusual nasties) it turns from white, to tan, to brown and eventually to black. It can be used until it's black, and should be rinsed periodically.

It turns color when removing medications and also blue with copper, red with iron, green with ammonia.

If you're using one and it turns a pastel color, that's a good indicator that it has removed something highly undesirable out of the water. If it's organic, it won't tell you much other than changing colors normally, but it will pull a lot of stuff. Says it doesn't remove trace elements - take that with a grain of salt (heavy metals in trace amounts are necessary)...

I've used them in all kinds of applications. A must-have IMO, even if its use is only occasional or on an emergency basis.

Jenn

 

[ralph atl]

Your nitrates are sky high. and depending upon test kit, could be even higher.
since your phates can't be 0, I would venture to guess that they are skyhigh, too.

if you are using gfo, start changing weekly, if not START.

carbon doing would also help, i.e., vodka, vinegar, sugar, or all three.

There rarely is a "magical" solution found.

phosphates should be less than 0.03
nitrates less than 0.2

Yes, some reefers have 5-10 trates with success. most don't. I would venture none at 35.




http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php">http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php</a>

[IMG]http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-09/rhf/index.php">http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-09/rhf/index.php</a>


[IMG]http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/august2003/chem.htm">http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/august2003/chem.htm</a>

 

[jennm]

Not that it's OK but I've seen reef tanks with nitrates well over 50 that are "ok" - meaning no acute distress - although it's seriously pushing the envelope.

I don't know what the issue is with William's tank, but chances are the nitrates didn't spike overnight. Yes they should be corrected, but something tells me that's not the direct cause of the acute issue he's having now.

But that's JMHO...

Jenn

 

[ralph atl]

Well instead of looking for the "Smoking Gun", let's eliminate the obvious problems that are most likely the issue anyway. After all of the issues have been addressed, then look at a "smoking gun". Phosphates could take a month or two to get low enough to safely house stony corals, as they "attach" to live rock and so forth. At least nitrates remain in water column (mostly).

 

[twocute2b4u]

JennM;447386 wrote: http://www.pets-warehouse.com/pic-a/APMPF.JPG" alt="" />

It's a polyester filter pad treated with adsorption resins. I suggest everybody has one of these on hand for emergencies.

Removes:

Harmful organics, toxic ammonia, heavy metals, all forms of phosphates, and medications after treatment.

In normal use (with no unusual nasties) it turns from white, to tan, to brown and eventually to black. It can be used until it's black, and should be rinsed periodically.

It turns color when removing medications and also blue with copper, red with iron, green with ammonia.

If you're using one and it turns a pastel color, that's a good indicator that it has removed something highly undesirable out of the water. If it's organic, it won't tell you much other than changing colors normally, but it will pull a lot of stuff. Says it doesn't remove trace elements - take that with a grain of salt (heavy metals in trace amounts are necessary)...

I've used them in all kinds of applications. A must-have IMO, even if its use is only occasional or on an emergency basis.

Jenn[/QUOTE]

Jenn - Would the polyfilter be placed in the filter sock? Where is the best location to put them in order to capture nasty water contents?

Would there be an impact on a system if you run polyfilters all the time?

 

[dakota9]

http://www.pets-warehouse.com/pic-a/APMPF.JPG" alt="" />


I take it this is a specially treated poly filter? I can't read the name brand on it, but would be interested in purchasing some. Do you carry this, Jenn?