Tank issues corals dying

It could be - or in a canister or any area of high flow-through.

There's mixed opinion about running them all the time. They claim not to remove trace elements but I'm not sure. Some folks do, I don't. I guess each individual should weigh the pros and cons and come to their own conclusion on that - but I do recommend that everyone have one on hand, 'just in case'.

Jenn
 
Dakota9;447454 wrote: http://www.pets-warehouse.com/pic-a/APMPF.JPG" alt="" />


I take it this is a specially treated poly filter? I can't read the name brand on it, but would be interested in purchasing some. Do you carry this, Jenn?[/QUOTE]

Yes, it's made by Polybio Marine. Yes, it's a polyester pad treated with adsorption resins.

And yes, I carry them. :)

Jenn
 
If you need any ro/di water let me know. I usually keep forty gallons all the time (have it running now, just maked 40g saltwater) If we can help, let us know!
 
Dakota - I just happened to put one in my 34 last weekend. The poly filter that Jenn has a pic of is really stiff on one side. I rinse mine before adding it to the 34 though.
 
JennM;447386 wrote: http://www.pets-warehouse.com/pic-a/APMPF.JPG" alt="" />

It's a polyester filter pad treated with adsorption resins. I suggest everybody has one of these on hand for emergencies.

Removes:

Harmful organics, toxic ammonia, heavy metals, all forms of phosphates, and medications after treatment.

In normal use (with no unusual nasties) it turns from white, to tan, to brown and eventually to black. It can be used until it's black, and should be rinsed periodically.

It turns color when removing medications and also blue with copper, red with iron, green with ammonia.

If you're using one and it turns a pastel color, that's a good indicator that it has removed something highly undesirable out of the water. If it's organic, it won't tell you much other than changing colors normally, but it will pull a lot of stuff. Says it doesn't remove trace elements - take that with a grain of salt (heavy metals in trace amounts are necessary)...

I've used them in all kinds of applications. A must-have IMO, even if its use is only occasional or on an emergency basis.

Jenn[/QUOTE]

If you cary them can I order them from you and use paypal and have them shipped to me? Ive been working alot lately and dont have alot of time to run around.

[QUOTE=][B]mysterybox;447422 wrote:[/B] Well instead of looking for the "Smoking Gun", let's eliminate the obvious problems that are most likely the issue anyway. After all of the issues have been addressed, then look at a "smoking gun". Phosphates could take a month or two to get low enough to safely house stony corals, as they "attach" to live rock and so forth. At least nitrates remain in water column (mostly).[/QUOTE]

Whats the best way to help eliminate Phosphates?
 
WILLIAM1;447660 wrote: Whats the best way to help eliminate Phosphates?
Water Changes, Fuge with Macro Algaes for Nutrient Export, and GFO is what I do to help keep them down. Also feeding less and less frequently helps as well. Depending on what you are feeding also as alot of dry foods (pellets) are kinda high in phosphate. Rinsing your frozen food before adding it to the tank helps as well.
 
mysterybox;447670 wrote: GFO in a phosban reactor.

Can I run GFO and carbon with a seperater in one reactor? Or should I run two different ones?

Corigan;447671 wrote: Water Changes, Fuge with Macro Algaes for Nutrient Export, and GFO is what I do to help keep them down. Also feeding less and less frequently helps as well. Depending on what you are feeding also as alot of dry foods (pellets) are kinda high in phosphate. Rinsing your frozen food before adding it to the tank helps as well.

I have been feeding every other day frozen. I dont usually rinse it so I will start.
 
WILLIAM1;447676 wrote: Can I run GFO and carbon with a seperater in one reactor? Or should I run two different ones?
You can however it can be difficult as GFO and Carbon like different flow rates. GFO likes a little tumble to it so it doesn't solidify and turn into a hockey puck, while you don't want carbon to tumble.
 
Corigan;447685 wrote: You can however it can be difficult as GFO and Carbon like different flow rates. GFO likes a little tumble to it so it doesn't solidify and turn into a hockey puck, while you don't want carbon to tumble.


best for 2, but can run one. skip carbon for now until u get this under control.
 
Sorry to hear.

I would suggest two things.

First bring your water some were or have someone come over and test everything to be sure were you are. Make sure your temp and salinity are double checked as well. Buy a cheap old fashioned thermometer.

Look at heaters make sure one is not cracked. Did this start before or after you added the coralvue power heads? I read some were about them leaking electricity which mean all the metals would be exposed and could leak other crap into you tank. Probably not the problem but something to think about.

If it was me I would not add GFO tell you get your phosphates tested with a good test kit. I am sure Chris at Einstein would test it for you or if you come into the city I can test it for you. IMO phosphates very rarely cause corals to die but if they are crazy high I am sure they could.

I would take one sps out and dip it to be sure there are no pests but it seems to be effecting all corals from what you said.

Best of luck.

Joe
 
sailfish;447705 wrote: Sorry to hear.

I would suggest two things.

First bring your water some were or have someone come over and test everything to be sure were you are. Make sure your temp and salinity are double checked as well. Buy a cheap old fashioned thermometer.

Look at heaters make sure one is not cracked. Did this start before or after you added the coralvue power heads? I read some were about them leaking electricity which mean all the metals would be exposed and could leak other crap into you tank. Probably not the problem but something to think about.

If it was me I would not add GFO tell you get your phosphates tested with a good test kit. I am sure Chris at Einstein would test it for you or if you come into the city I can test it for you. IMO phosphates very rarely cause corals to die but if they are crazy high I am sure they could.

I would take one sps out and dip it to be sure there are no pests but it seems to be effecting all corals from what you said.

Best of luck.

Joe

I have two stealth heaters which I will check tonight for cracks one is a back-up and the other to heat the tank. I will get the water tested again this weekend.
 
I just got home from work and one of my tangs and one of my clowns are acting funny not the normal happy go lucky fish I see daily... Man I just dont know.
 
Im going to asap... Tested again and everything is about the same. Mag is at 1160 though I dont think its making everything go crazy.
 
mag is fine.

it's your nitrates and phosphates that suck. there maybe an additional issue, too! Let's elimate each one.

polyfilter works fine. carbon works great, too.

if you don't have a nutrient removal system like some folks here have, then GFO &/or carbon dosing work great.
 
William!
aim a powerhead a little towards the surface of the water so you see a strong ripple on the surface!
 
mysterybox;447911 wrote: William!
aim a powerhead a little towards the surface of the water so you see a strong ripple on the surface!


Ok done. And I've started skimming wet as well.
 
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