Tank room build started

Thanks Chris,
I read up a lot on it - most on the "build" side of it, no so very much on the layout as most things will have to go in a specific place in that room, whether or not that will be smart.
Moisture barriers, mold resistant paint etc are well accounted for as well as an oversized vent system.
I wish I could get a drain in that room, but I doubt it can be added in an economical way (aka: without ripping out the concrete flooring in it's entire depth).
Sump pump and a drain hole might be an option - but is that really important for some spills?!

And Dave, yup - Barry was our "leader" today, he built his own house - so he can be trusted. ;)

Robb
 
I'm going to make a suggestion... You need to also get an old school Mortal Kombat arcade machine.. Every game room should have one!!
 
mojo;417187 wrote: I'm not sure if you have everything already planned out and stuff, but if you haven't already done so, I'd suggest checking out other tank / sump rooms - there are several of us who have gone through it.

If you're interested in seeing mine, just PM me.

+1 - million options and just talking through them with someone whose been through it is priceless. Talking with Chris saved me from making a bunch of mistakes I'm sure. Your welcome to see mine as well.
 
I have an idea, not sure if it's been accounted for: You know how on submarines they have the doors to seal off sections? Figure you put a sealed 1x4 all the way around the room and seal it to the floor. That way, if something does overflow, it won't spill into the next room. I know at my parent's house, the finished basement is only carpet on top of a pad, and if the basement were to flood due to a water pipe burst or something, the room would also be affected. Sure you'd have to watch out for tripping on it every time, but figure 4" by however much sqft would give you enough so if you left the RO/DI on for the weekend, you would come back and would only have to empty out the room, instead of rent dehumidifiers and fans.
 
That was already incorporated when we did the framing - I'm serious.
But I would still like a drain in there - the door won't work that way...

Robb
 
The floor would need to be sealed also. Concrete wics water if its not sealed.
 
Howabout that stuff they seal garages with. Paints white and you spatter specks of paint. Should make cleaning up skimmate easier if the skimmer overflows (unless you're using one of those snazzy collection cups that cuts off air to the skimmer when the cup fills), since it can take motor oil.
 
au01st;417253 wrote: Howabout that stuff they seal garages with. Paints white and you spatter specks of paint. Should make cleaning up skimmate easier if the skimmer overflows (unless you're using one of those snazzy collection cups that cuts off air to the skimmer when the cup fills), since it can take motor oil.
I believe those are epoxy based and would work fine.
 
LilRobb;417157 wrote: I wouldn't know what the difference is, I have a particular in mind already.


A "real" billiard table has no pockets, and uses only three balls. Sort of chess to checkers compared to pocket games.

Actually, to me carom billiards is too hard and discouraging. One Pocket is "chess" enough for me, played on a regular table.

Just get a 9 foot table if it will fit. Allow 60" on all sides for clearance. I have recovered tables for money before... so if you buy a used one we'll set it up and true it, then I can recover it for you. I refuse to put crappy cloth on it though. Look up Simonis. :) I also have a very nice cue for you... even German! Schon cues, and the "o" should have the two little dots over it. :doh:
 
Gotcha,
I think we call that type "carambolage" and the other "eight ball", no?
 
Looking good, Robb. I enjoyed how the pictures seemed like a time-lapse!

Barry, I don't recognize you with the new avatar!
 
Oz;417223 wrote: +1 - million options and just talking through them with someone whose been through it is priceless. Talking with Chris saved me from making a bunch of mistakes I'm sure. Your welcome to see mine as well.

I agree, Mine is available to check out as well if you want... If you need any electrical work done that you cant handle let me know..
 
au01st;417253 wrote: Howabout that stuff they seal garages with. Paints white and you spatter specks of paint. Should make cleaning up skimmate easier if the skimmer overflows (unless you're using one of those snazzy collection cups that cuts off air to the skimmer when the cup fills), since it can take motor oil.


If you go this route, make sure to use the Two-part, use the primer and make sure you have the surface prepped properly..
 
James S.;417459 wrote: If you go this route, make sure to use the Two-part, use the primer and make sure you have the surface prepped properly..

+1 the one part is garbage
 
I know,

I vaccumed large pieces off your floor in your absement, Dave... LOL

Robb
 
Puting in a drain might not be as hard as you think. We deliver concrete to stuff like that all the time. Rent a concrete saw from HD. Most slabs are only around 4" thick until you get to the footing but you don't have to go under the footing either. Do you have anywhere adjacent to the garage that would have a sewer drain you could tie into?
 
YUP,

about 20' away - I will get a problem with the decline from drain to sewer...
I might need to check the concrete saw idea, a perfect round 12" hole would be preferred though, LOL
 
LilRobb;417533 wrote: YUP,

about 20' away - I will get a problem with the decline from drain to sewer...
I might need to check the concrete saw idea, a perfect round 12" hole would be preferred though, LOL

You can rent a drill and a 12" concrete diamond hole saw as well :up:
 
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