For a new reef tank set-up, what parameters do you test for? How often do you test? Which are the most important? Any tips on how to keep track of my parameters over time?
Testing 1, 2, 3...
- Thread starter PJs_Bucket_List
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I test weekly and I test Alk, Calc, magnesium, pH, salinity, phosphates and nitrates. I use the aquatic log app to keep track of them.
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Cycling- test daily
Nitrate, nitrite, ammonia
Post cycling ( no more ammonia/nitrite)- test weekly
Nitrate, phosphates, alk
Post cycle ready for livestock- test weekly
Alk, nitrate, phosphates, pH (fish only)
Calcium and Mag along with above if coral
At this stage I would test the new water as well. Make sure levels are equal before doing water change. Don’t want to get a bad batch of salt and sump in 16 dkh. F*c Salinity *cough cough*. I think at this point, I rather use cheap ass instant ocean and dose my containers than rely on what’s on the box.
I would think ALK is the single most important to test for if you could only do one. Any other parameters could piss off and discolored livestock. ALK swings would kill overnight.
Everything nowadays is automated. So it’s less of a hassle. But I do calibrate and back up my trident and NP with my Focustronic. I always have Hanna/Salifret to test with monthly to make sure of accuracy. And everything gets calibrated everything every time I go through the 2 month of reagent.
Nitrate, nitrite, ammonia
Post cycling ( no more ammonia/nitrite)- test weekly
Nitrate, phosphates, alk
Post cycle ready for livestock- test weekly
Alk, nitrate, phosphates, pH (fish only)
Calcium and Mag along with above if coral
At this stage I would test the new water as well. Make sure levels are equal before doing water change. Don’t want to get a bad batch of salt and sump in 16 dkh. F*c Salinity *cough cough*. I think at this point, I rather use cheap ass instant ocean and dose my containers than rely on what’s on the box.
I would think ALK is the single most important to test for if you could only do one. Any other parameters could piss off and discolored livestock. ALK swings would kill overnight.
Everything nowadays is automated. So it’s less of a hassle. But I do calibrate and back up my trident and NP with my Focustronic. I always have Hanna/Salifret to test with monthly to make sure of accuracy. And everything gets calibrated everything every time I go through the 2 month of reagent.
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Sorry I wasn't clear with my questions. I was referring to after the tank is cycled. Thanks so much for your replies!
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Weekly if you have already dialed in dosing.
Daily if you’re starting to dose or set up CaRX
If you believe in Neptune. It’s every goddamn 6 hours
If you hardly have any corals or only have softies you can get away with testing much less frequently. I have a tank that's all anemones and I can't remember the last time I tested anything lol. I just do the occasional water change and assume it's fine if everything looks happy 
SPS corals will consume large amounts of calcium and alkalinity. LPS corals will consume a decent amount too if they are fast growing. Coralline algae too if you have lots of it. Corals will typically grow faster (and thus consume more calcium/alkalinity) at higher pH.
Alkalinity is the parameter that will move the fastest and is most critical to keep in an acceptable range. It is generally consumed proportionally with calcium, though it is also common for tanks to require slightly more alkalinity than calcium. Per reef chemist Randy Holmes-Farley:
So to put that into perspective, let's say you keep your tank at 9dKH and 440ppm calcium. Calcium could drop by 40ppm to 400ppm and the corals wouldn't care. However, the corresponding drop in alkalinity would be almost 6dKH, putting the tank at a totally unlivable 3dKH. That's why people say Alk is the most important one to test.
Meanwhile, magnesium moves pretty slow and is pretty forgiving. I think it's fine to test every few months and make large adjustments up to 100ppm in a day. In a new tank without many corals I think you could get away without testing it at all for quite a while.
SPS corals will consume large amounts of calcium and alkalinity. LPS corals will consume a decent amount too if they are fast growing. Coralline algae too if you have lots of it. Corals will typically grow faster (and thus consume more calcium/alkalinity) at higher pH.
Alkalinity is the parameter that will move the fastest and is most critical to keep in an acceptable range. It is generally consumed proportionally with calcium, though it is also common for tanks to require slightly more alkalinity than calcium. Per reef chemist Randy Holmes-Farley:
So to put that into perspective, let's say you keep your tank at 9dKH and 440ppm calcium. Calcium could drop by 40ppm to 400ppm and the corals wouldn't care. However, the corresponding drop in alkalinity would be almost 6dKH, putting the tank at a totally unlivable 3dKH. That's why people say Alk is the most important one to test.
Meanwhile, magnesium moves pretty slow and is pretty forgiving. I think it's fine to test every few months and make large adjustments up to 100ppm in a day. In a new tank without many corals I think you could get away without testing it at all for quite a while.
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