Thinking bout giving up on sps

SuperClown;838686 wrote:

When I acclimate sps I float to temp then drip for hour end up pouring water out every 15 min as container filld then I turn my leds down and ramp them up gradually over 4 days. For months I had no issue at all and then bam overnight they looked like crap next day

Way more work than I do with mine. Sorry it's not working for you. I just throw mine in the sand bed, and move them to where I want in a week or two if they still look healthy.
 
Spud, have you checked for pests? Finding them is a very humbling experience.

I know you had an aiptasia issue... We're they stinging the SPS?
 
Not that I can tell I've checked for red bugs nudis... etc nothing so far. I "did for a long time have aptasia issue but they are gone now finally. Only thing I can really determine thats my issue is either my alk or temp swings. My tempa change about 4 degrees. I have a maxijet 1200 for my return. I'm thinking the flow rate for the return may not be pumping the heated water fast enough to maintain temps late at night when I'm in bed. I was up last night late and noticed my temps at 76.7 and during the day its usually at about 79.4 to 80

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I use to have temp swing problems. Once I fixed that my sps did fine.
 
This post should be about if any expert/experienced SPS keepers would like to come by and see how your set-up is. I don't call myself an expert but if you would like to keep SPS then post it. Let me know your availability and I'll stop by and give you my best opinion.
 
While I appreciate the offer. It will be a month or more before I would be able to have time to meet. Before u agree to meet though I don't live in Atlanta in case u didn't know

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Spud Try to keep your Temp at 78 so the swing is less Get a bigger heater if needed.

I honestly throw mine in and it seems to do fine

I acutely just grew my first big patch of Coraline algae last week!

Tanks been up a month and its growing great!
 
The crazy thing is its a 400w heater in about a 45g system. Over kill i know My stand is the deep blue for 30g-60g so its short and doesn't require a pump with a lot of umph to it and the flow is pretty good from it. But I'm at the point of looking for a possible pump replacement but not sure what one would be properly rated for it.

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Not sure why this thread is still tossing out ideas, as if there is a mystery on our hands.

He admits to not testing Alk, Cal, Mg, PO4, or NO3. Mystery solved.

Test, correct, and stabilize.

DONE
 
Dr. Fish;838867 wrote: Not sure why this thread is still tossing out ideas, as if there is a mystery on our hands.

He admits to not testing Alk, Cal, Mg, PO4, or NO3. Mystery solved.

Test, correct, and stabilize.

DONE


tend to agree....
 
Dr. Fish;838867 wrote: Not sure why this thread is still tossing out ideas, as if there is a mystery on our hands.

He admits to not testing Alk, Cal, Mg, PO4, or NO3. Mystery solved.

Test, correct, and stabilize.

DONE

+1 on the params testing and maintaining stability
 
dr. Fish;838867 wrote: not sure why this thread is still tossing out ideas, as if there is a mystery on our hands.

He admits to not testing alk, cal, mg, po4, or no3. Mystery solved.

Test, correct, and stabilize.

Done

+1
 
Dr. Fish;838867 wrote: Not sure why this thread is still tossing out ideas, as if there is a mystery on our hands.

He admits to not testing Alk, Cal, Mg, PO4, or NO3. Mystery solved.

Test, correct, and stabilize.

DONE

Only thing i read that he didn't test was Alk and Mg or did I miss something. Said his Cal was 440, phosphates were 0. Hopefully it is as simple as getting his Alk and Mg in line, but coming from a new guy in this hobby, nothing has been that simple so far. Maybe things are easy for someone with 5,10, or even 15 years experience. But for those of us that are new it just simply is not that easy, hence why he is posting here. I am not saying he is new just saying he is asking for help so why not toss out ideas, what does it hurt.
 
Dr. Fish;838867 wrote: Not sure why this thread is still tossing out ideas, as if there is a mystery on our hands.

He admits to not testing Alk, Cal, Mg, PO4, or NO3. Mystery solved.

Test, correct, and stabilize.

DONE

I never admitted to not testing in fact after re reading my own posts to make sure I'm not loosing it I stated I tested my calcium phosphates ph and at point of time had not tested my alk or mag but was going to.



To kris I think u may be onto something with my heater its about 3 or 4 years old it is a jager brand heater. I think I'm going to pick up a new one because my new 200w keeps my other tank a lot more stable than this one does.

Oh also I changed a few things around in my tank and my red slime algae is disappearing


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Well,

You said PO4's were zero, yet you have algae, so in essence you do have PO4's in the system.

No mention of NO3's. Match this with PO4's and you have a recipe for dead SPS.

Add in that you dont know your Alk and only rely on water changes means the Alk can be off and with major swings in between changes. Another SPS killer.

Mg testing is missing too, this can have disastrous effects on Alk and Cal balance.

Don't think I saw a mention of specific gravity either, or by which way you are measuring that.

I'm not trying to be a jerk, its just simply before anyone can help with this particular situation you need to sit down and test all the params at one time to get a clear picture of the quality of your water. With quality test kits. Then you need to be testing on a regular basis until you know how stable or how not stable everything is.
 
I did use a test for po4 it is 0 reason reading 0 obviously the nutrients are bound in the algae as u stated. I removed the algae daily this in a sense slowly reducing nutrients. I tested nitrates and they are very low as well.

Also pulled my tds meter out and tested my rodi water just to make sure that wasn't a issue.

I appreciate any advice given. I would feel like if my water quality was an issue all my hard coral would be suffering but its mainly the expensive ones (murphys law) . I have a Millie that looks fantastic my sunset monti is fine frogspawn fine. Of course my soft coral doesn't count as it thrives.

My salinity I did not mention because no one asked me what it was but it is at. 35ppt measured with a refractometer.

I mix my salt the same way the same time. Everything I do I try to make routine so when something isn't working I can help narrow down the possibilities. My tank params are all stable for the most part from all testing I've done.

I just can't figure out why I still get algae or what causing my sps issue. I have spent countless hours and money for years getting my system as automated and stable as possible. Yet I still have algae on the glass. I never feed more than my fish can eat. I don't feel like I have a large bioload. I have all the fancy equipment and my water changes are consistent.



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SuperClown;840010 wrote: I did use a test for po4 it is 0 reason reading 0 obviously the nutrients are bound in the algae as u stated. I removed the algae daily this in a sense slowly reducing nutrients. I tested nitrates and they are very low as well.

Also pulled my tds meter out and tested my rodi water just to make sure that wasn't a issue.

I appreciate any advice given. I would feel like if my water quality was an issue all my hard coral would be suffering but its mainly the expensive ones (murphys law) . I have a Millie that looks fantastic my sunset monti is fine frogspawn fine. Of course my soft coral doesn't count as it thrives.

My salinity I did not mention because no one asked me what it was but it is at. 35ppt measured with a refractometer.

I mix my salt the same way the same time. Everything I do I try to make routine so when something isn't working I can help narrow down the possibilities. My tank params are all stable for the most part from all testing I've done.

I just can't figure out why I still get algae or what causing my sps issue. I have spent countless hours and money for years getting my system as automated and stable as possible. Yet I still have algae on the glass. I never feed more than my fish can eat. I don't feel like I have a large bioload. I have all the fancy equipment and my water changes are consistent.



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you are getting algae & losing SPS because your phosphates & nitrates are too high at a minimum amongst other possibilities in addition to.
 
Which makes no sense whatsoever considering I'm doing everything short of setting up a 24 hour water change system that cycles 100% of the water.

Phates and trates readings are low in my system.

If 100% of the food is consumed I feed. If I do frequent water changes. Replace be weekly carbon and gfo along with running a Skimmer that is rated for systems 2x the tank size that doesn't even pull that much out. My filters are new and I'm testing my water straight out the rodi and getting no readings of trates and phosphates it has to come from some where so where is it leaching from

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SuperClown;840086 wrote: Which makes no sense whatsoever considering I'm doing everything short of setting up a 24 hour water change system that cycles 100% of the water.

Phates and trates readings are low in my system.

If 100% of the food is consumed I feed. If I do frequent water changes. Replace be weekly carbon and gfo along with running a Skimmer that is rated for systems 2x the tank size that doesn't even pull that much out. My filters are new and I'm testing my water straight out the rodi and getting no readings of trates and phosphates it has to come from some where so where is it leaching from

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yes, it has to come from somewhere!


where?

It's not your RO/DI...check!
Weekly gfo/carbon changes for how long?

It can take a while if your Rock & sand bed are leaching both....
 
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