Thoughts on improving surface skimming?

crewdawg1981

Active Member
Market
Messages
1,129
Reaction score
1
Okay, so I need to improve the surface skimming ability of my tank (Marineland 180 with corner overflows). I have, for a long time, had an issue getting rid of the protein layer along the surface of the water.

Some additional information:
- System Size - 180 display, 135 sump, 40 frag
- Flow - (4) Vortech MP40s and Reeflo Marlin return (valved half back). I can't aim the vortechs, but the returns are aimed at the surface.
- Skimmer - SRO XP3000int (perhaps taking this thing to the brink)
- SeaSystems reactors (3) - GAC, GFO, Matrix
- Bioload - ... this is where I get in trouble... 4 tangs (yellow, kole, hippo, and achilles), 12 small green chromis, 2 bartlets, 2 sunbursts, 2 mandarins, 1 melanaurus, 1 midas blenny, 2 clowns, 1 geometric pygmy hawkfish, 1 redhead blenny, 1 tailspot blenny, 1 barnacle blenny... uh... yeah thats it in the display. Frag has a tang, six line and a fire fish.

Parameters:
- Magnesium - 1200 (been battling a low reading for a long time... its finally coming up)
- Cal - 360
- Alk - 9ish
- pH - 8.15-8.25
- Nitrates - trace?

No matter how I adjust my feeding regimen or skimming (wet or really wet), nothing has helped. The 12 chromis are a new addition.

So.... thoughts?

- Cut some of the teeth in the overflow?
 
Grant,
Have you tried playing with the output of the returns and/or your in-tank powerheads to simulate a circular flow pattern at the water surface? Clockwise or counter clockwise doesn't matter. that type flow pattern should rotate all protein on the surface so it passes by the corner overlfows and take care of the issue.

If you don't want to try that route, I would first try to widen the existing teeth before cutting them off altogether. You can always do that later if need be. Do not make the teeth any lower, as that will lower the tank water level. An hour spent with some careful filing or Dremel work could solve the problem s well.

I recently had the same issue with my 180 gallon FW Discus tank with the amazon themed foam background. I widened the teeth of the surface skimmer I installed, and moved the return line so I could create a circular surface flow pattern, and that solved the problem.
 
I considered it (adjusting the direction of the return flow); however, the setup really doesn't make it a practical change. I do have the mp40s set to do a nutrient export; however, I also assume that the directional flow from the returns affects that to a some degree.

I assumed I would need to do something with the teeth on the overflow. One note I have observed... even when the water comes up to the teeth ... i don't see the protein layer get sucked down the overflow? I am wondering if the lower grate/teeth on the marine land overflow are blocked by now, but perhaps they are submarining my efforts to surface skim?

I can't take the grates off to see as I have some rock leaning against both.
 
another though would be to point the return outlets directly at the front of the tank. in theory that should create 2 elliptical flows one going up and back towards the overflow pushing the protein into the overflow and the other going down when the water hits the glass. but the effictiveness of that would depend on how deep your returns are in the water and on how fast you have your mp40s moving water. also if you think the lower great is clogged have at it with a toothbrush and see if that helps clear it up.
 
Is the water level in your overflow the same as your tank? If it is, you can try shortening your standpipes. For surface skimming to work well, there needs to be a vertical fall of the water height.
 
I use to have the same issues until I created a wave with the APEX and my 6255 Tunzes. The wave simulation breaks up the water surface and removes the protein layer from the surface.

I no longer have the issue and I kind of fixed one problem and created a new one. I got more shimmer after doing this and I love it.
 
Some great thoughts! My responses:

- Pointing returns to front: The flow from my MP40s is really going to outweigh the returns, but hey... its worth a shot (two of the four returns are already pointed this direction).

- Lower grate possibly clogged: I actually want the lower grate to be clogged, at least i think I do. If the overflows are taking too much water from the middle, then that would help explain why so little surface skimming is happening. Right?

- Waterfall into overflow boxes: the water level is lower. Not more than 2 inches, but anymore than that and the salt creep gets a bit ridiculous.

- Wavemaking: Hmmm... I guess I had steered away from wavemaking as I read that it can greatly reduce the life of a glass tank. Any truth to this? If not, I could give it a try? (PS... Dave how is that coral doing for you? Coloring up nicely?).
 
How about just installing a directional power head pointing up to break the surface water tension???
 
rjrgroup;933385 wrote: How about just installing a directional power head pointing up to break the surface water tension???

With the four returns pointed up, I do have a decent amount of surface agitation; however, the protein layer just moves around. Its not as though it is a solid, across the tank, issue. It does cover much of the surface, but there are several breaks in it.

... i may have confused myself with that one...
 
Crewdawg1981;933384 wrote:
- Wavemaking: Hmmm... I guess I had steered away from wavemaking as I read that it can greatly reduce the life of a glass tank. Any truth to this? If not, I could give it a try? (PS... Dave how is that coral doing for you? Coloring up nicely?).
Well if that's the case I've got appox. 20,000 gallons of flow pounding my half inch acrylic tank every day for 8 hours and I can't imagine coming home one day after work and seeing my basement turn into a lake.

As for the WWC Candlestick Arco. It's really starting to color up now. I was at WWC shop in Orlando several weeks ago and seen the mother colony, it's still there but it appears he's done some fagging over the years because I would have expected it to be huge. The color on the mother colony is impressive and I would hope the colony I got from you colors up nice like the one in WWC's show tank.
 
Here's a current Pic of the colony

View attachment 51679
<fieldset class="gc-fieldset">
<legend> Attached files </legend>
933423=51679-WWC Candlestick.jpg
>
933423=51679-WWC Candlestick.jpg
class="gc-images" title="WWC Candlestick.jpg[/IMG] style="max-width:300px" /></a> </fieldset>
 
Reefkeeper;933404 wrote: Well if that's the case I've got appox. 20,000 gallons of flow pounding my half inch acrylic tank every day for 8 hours and I can't imagine coming home one day after work and seeing my basement turn into a lake.

As for the WWC Candlestick Arco. It's really starting to color up now. I was at WWC shop in Orlando several weeks ago and seen the mother colony, it's still there but it appears he's done some fagging over the years because I would have expected it to be huge. The color on the mother colony is impressive and I would hope the colony I got from you colors up nice like the one in WWC's show tank.

With the color you have on your other corals, I imagine its simply a matter of time. Glad it is doing well for you. You didnt by chance snag the original name of the coral while you were there did you? I remember candlestick, but could certainly be wrong.

I'll have to see about the wave in my tank. Just makes me a touch nervous haha!
 
Back
Top